466 ranger build

Been putting this off, but finally got time to post it up! Here's some of the specs for my little ranger mud truck build:

89 ranger standard cab long be body sitting on 78 F-150 shot bed frame.
D44 front/9" rear axles.
coilover/monoleaf rear suspension (to keep me in "must have leaf spring" suspension rules) on AFCO spring sliders and chromoly ladder bars.
custom rate coil springs and CE adjustable drag shocks
Coan prepped rollerized c6 with hardened input/output shafts, billet servo and clutch baskets, Alto clutches and kevlar band. Full manual reverse pattern valve body.
Stall is a 10" 3500 advertised converter, and will get reflashed after the dyno tune.

Now for the motor:

D1 block bored .030, hardblock filled to bottom of water holes, zero decked for rotating assembly
SCAT h-beam rods
SPR forged flat top pistons with 2 valve notches
Helfire moly rings file fit for the 250 shot of NOS that the truck will see
Freelander ported and worked D0VE-C heads
Lem worked Comp solid roller cam 110lsa 268/277 @ .050 750/760 lift
Comp solid roller lifters
Crower SS roller rockers
Jomar stud Girdle
FRPP 4500 Victor intake
Holley 1150 Dominator
MSD dizzy fed from MSD 7al-2 ignition box
Schoenfield 2 1/8" upright headers
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
ARP 2000 rod bolts
Canton windage screen
Ford 370 truck 10qt oil pan with baffles added in.

With 9 qts of VR1 20w50 oil, priming the oil pump gave me 77lbs of oil pressure! Now to get it to the dyno for break in and a tune!

Some pics of the truck in my buddy;s driveway on 35" boggers:





And some of the motor as I was putting it together:




Last year with 39.5" cuts and the old motor:



So what ya think it'll make?

forgot to add the head flow numbers:

.100 76/60
.200 159/113
.300 234/145
.400 290/167
.500 308/181
.600 321/186
.700 327/186
.750 .327/187

This was done on a Superflow flow bench at a certain shop in KY

Plan is to pull these heads this fall and do more work on the ports for next year

I'll take a stab....690hp/610tq

Lookin good Karl

Let us know how she does!

Thanks guys. I hope it does good! I's be happy with 690hp, but I know it won't make that. DD says 651 @ 6500, so if I get close to that, I'd be happy.

Well ?????

body looks crooked and the oil pan needs painting.


otherwise, I think it looks like sh!t.

This traveling crap for my job makes it hard for me to keep dyno dates! It severlely sucks now since Carrol Carter is all booked up until the end of July. He recommended I contact a guy named Lee Edwards out of Calverton, VA. Said he's another Ford guy that used to work for him way back and has a new Superflow dyno. I believe he said it's a SF-902. So now to track him down and see when I can get in. Anybody know him or how to contact him?

I'm more upset that I couldn't get to dyno it over at C&C Persormance. It's a really small place, but the last time I was there I saw about 2 dozen of those nice aluminum blocks all stacked in the corner. To be honest, I walked out with a chubby.

Karl, you walked in chubby.

IcallhimGeorge wrote:Karl, you walked in chubby.

True, but part of me got even chubbier looking at all that aluminum in the corner

On another note, dropped the motor off today to get the once over before being put on the SF902 dyno this coming Saturday. Only problem is he only has BBC flanged headers. He does a bunch of big ci, aluminum headed motors for truck pull motors and wondered why I only had iron heads. After a bit of conversation, I explained that I have more fun whipping up on the aluminum headed motors with my old iron.

So the bad news is now I'm in a mad search for a set of SCJ flanged headers before this weekend. Mine are 2 1/8" uprights, so they are not usable for the tune session.

Ive got some cast iron manifolds Ill send you for that turd.

Spent the day on "The Dream Killer" as Lee Edwards calls his dyno. Learned some things that will help me out later on, and had the huge sigh of relief when it fired right off fairly easily. Only made 6 real pulls all day, but made changes that we thought were the best. I can't believe how large the jets in the 1150 had to go to feed the thing, and only in the last pull was the air/fuel decent across the pull. Pull #5 made just a tick more hp, but had a fairly lean spot across the middle that we though would shorten the life of the motor quickly if my NOS tune was off.

Started out with 95/98 jets, rear jet extensions and .028 high speed air bleeds in 7320-1 1150 hp Dommy, no spacers, 34* total timing. Made a max of 594.6hp @ 6400 and 522.8tqe @ 5200. Air/Fuel was real lean across the middle, so time for a jet change.

For the second pull went to 99/100 jets all else the same. Maxed out at 610.7hp @ 6400 and 520.7tqe @ 5200. Still a little lean from the middle of the pull up, but doable.

Pull #3, added in the 1" Jomar Power Cone and put the NOS plate in that will live there. All else the same. Maxed out 617.8hp @ 6400 and 527.6tqe @ 5200. Got super lean of the top, need more rear jet!

Pull #4, put in a .138 jet in the rear (even though the jet extensions are probably acting as a restriction) and bumped timing to 35*. Maxed out at 622.3hp @ 6400 and 529.8tqe @ 5200. Air/Fuel is MUCH better now, time to squeze more power out of it!

Pull #5, Backed timing to 32*. Made 621.3 @ 6300 and 533.5 @5200. Got a wierd dip in the torque curve, going to change the high speed air bleed.

Pull #6, bumped timing to 33*, and went to .025 high speed air bleed. Gave the best air/fuel across the board! Wasn't too lean like the earlier pulls and was just about perfect, staying within .6 across the board and averaged 14.1. Maxed out at 619.1hp @ 6300 and 529.3 @ 5200. The wierd thing on this pull is the torque maxed out at 5200, dropped down to 522.7 @ 5700 then started climbing back up peaking again at 530.2 @ 6000. It was strange but left a fairly flat curve on the graph.

We left it there and they gave me suggestions to squeeze a few more hp out. 1st and foremost was the cloverleaf in the Victor intake. I left it in and just radiused around the pad to make sure the butterfly's were clear as well as smooth out around the turns into the runners. Lee said to pull the intake and cut that out as it was more than likely the cause of my torque dip when in combonation of the spacers. I can see his point as the cloverleaf does have the large squared off corners. For now, I'm going to get a 1/2" open spacer to put under the NOS plate just to make sure the spray doesn't land directly on the front and rear lands of the cloverleaf.

He also said something about why he calls his dyno "The Dream Killer." Something about when he had it set up he had them make it read lower than it should and if I took my motor as it sat over to Carol Carter's shop (which has his old SF 901) that it would probably bring the hp numbers up closer to 690-700hp. It made me feel better, but I'm still happy with the 620hp numbers considering it's only a 466 with d0ve heads!

edit: forgot to add, I had 73lbs oil pressure and 2000rpm and up. At idle it was around 45lbs. Good enough for me considering its a Melling HV pump with a pressure spring change.

good numbers. I'd say thats a job wheel done

did you end up with 99/front 138s/rear ???????????/

if your jet extensions are a restriction, why not fix it, usually (if everything is right) square jetting is close to right

Res, thanks. It was a long time coming to get it there.

JC, I ned the jet extensions in the rear to keep the jets in the fuel. Remember this is a mud truck and I hit some bumpy tracks and pull my front off the ground regularly.

Leave the side parts of the cloverleaf in the manifold and square-off the front and rear of the plenum, (port the edges into the runners), and it will help greatly when the nitrous is used.

Randy, that's the plan for now. I knew about the front and rear to make sure the spray bars were clear, but do the side flat spots on top of the cloverleaf hurt anything? Lee was saying to remove the front and rear entirely leaving the veins into the runners rounded and for the sides make the top rounded into the plenum so that the fuel/air mix doesn't have that hard turn on the sides. I had a 1" open spacer, but not a 1/2" open, so when I do the intake, I'm going to add in that 1/2" and see if it picks up any more.

Nice!

I'm really happy with the outcome, and I have to say it sounds really mean on the dyno.

Something I forgot to mention last night is my many many thanks to those the helped get me done. Namely Dave Freelander for porting, flowing, and setting up my heads, Lem Evans and the staff over at BFEvans Race parts for getting me that right parts quickly and for spec'ing out my cam. And last but not least my local machinist, George Cox at Performance Machine for doing the work on the bottom end and making sure I assembled the short block correctly.

Good job.

kjett wrote:Randy, that's the plan for now. I knew about the front and rear to make sure the spray bars were clear, but do the side flat spots on top of the cloverleaf hurt anything? Lee was saying to remove the front and rear entirely leaving the veins into the runners rounded and for the sides make the top rounded into the plenum so that the fuel/air mix doesn't have that hard turn on the sides. I had a 1" open spacer, but not a 1/2" open, so when I do the intake, I'm going to add in that 1/2" and see if it picks up any more.

The sides won't matter so, just round the sharp edges. When you flatten-off the front and rear of the plenum there is quite a bit of metal to remove around the center front/rear dividers at the top.

jc10000rpm wrote:did you end up with 99/front 138s/rear ???????????/

if your jet extensions are a restriction, why not fix it, usually (if everything is right) square jetting is close to right

A #99 Holley jet is .125" and unless it was removed, there is a power valve in the primary side of a #7320.
If that is the case, a .138" secondary jet would be about square.

The Barry Grant "jet extensions", (not Holley's), are huge and go OVER the jets.

rmcomprandy wrote:A #99 Holley jet is .125" and unless it was removed, there is a power valve in the primary side of a #7320.
If that is the case, a .138" secondary jet would be about square.

The Barry Grant "jet extensions", (not Holley's), are huge and go OVER the jets.

It's got power valve plugs front and rear. Lee was saying the same abou them being square with all considererd with the extension in the rear. How do the Barry Grant extensions work? By looking at them it looks like you leave the jet in the metering block and these just slip over them, acting like a funnel to keep fuel at the jet. Or am I completely wrong?

Got it out for the 1st time to run it. It was sounding great on Friday night when we did some short test launches and loaded it up on the trailer for Saturday. We had to laugh a little when I fired it up in the pit area and every person we could see stopped what they were doing and started to walk over to me and see what was up. I got a ton of compliments on how it sounded. I signed up for 36", 39.5", and 44" tire classes, moved the truck to the shade in the staging area and waited my turn. There is a slight flat spot in the carb where it's transitiong from the idle circuit to the intermediate. It's only noticable when I try to ease on the throttle, if I lay into it, it goes right by it. Anyway, my turn came up to run and I went to stage. Here's the truck on 35's (skinny 10.5" wide on front and 14.5" wide on the rears):



And my run:



You can see and hear they my tranny started slipping really bad and sent me to the rev limiter. I originally just figured I'd gotten out of the groove and was high centered in the mud. I shifted from 1st to 2nd at about 10', and was in 3rd by 20' seeing the shift light in all 3 gears! Pulled it out, let it cool off, gave it a quick wash down and changed tires to my 38.5x11 boggers then went back to the shade.

Here's my C classs run (39.5" and down tire size):



Same again on the shifting, was in 2nd by about 20', in 3rd by about 50'. The tranny was slipping so bad I don't even know if it actually did shift or I was still in 1st or 2nd.

Motor ran super strong, but now I need to drop the tranny pan to see if there's metal in it. I talked with several people that were there and they asked about my converter saying it looked and sounded more like that was the issue with it locking/unlocking causing the fluid to get really hot and overheat the tranny. I've got 2 weeks before the next race, so hopefully i can get it done and ready for there. For now, I'll just be a little sad it's not running.