What's your "as stock as possible" Turbo build?

How many people here have a "stock" style motor... i.e. block, crank, etc. turbo setup? List your setup. I am about to do a stock turbo build and wanted to see what everyone else had... I will be running a D1VE block and some D3VE A2A's that I am porting and polishing. I have a 4U and a 2Y ABC crank that I can use but no rods or pistons (I would have to buy those anyways). Looking to make 700-1000.
So what do you guys have? Let's hear it!

I can't believe nobody wants to talk about their combos...

nobody on this board has that type of build if I were to guess. I love to talk turbo stuff but with the builds we do there is nothing stock about it. our little turbo will break stock stuff all day long.

[quote="whatbumper"]nobody on this board has that type of build if I were to guess.quote]

puss...guess it is just me and you...next year, stock block/crank, eagle rod, c8/c9 head and a 106

[quote="ifucan"]

whatbumper wrote:nobody on this board has that type of build if I were to guess.quote]

puss...guess it is just me and you...next year, stock block/crank, eagle rod, c8/c9 head and a 106

That will be cool

Yellowhorse is doing a 580 inch turbo deal, but he's not here anymore.

whatbumper wrote:

That will be cool

Thanks...was actually thinking about going 514 but either way it will have a cast crank and that 106 has more than enough steam to ring the death knell for either, plus the limiting factor will be the head which would be the same for either (only exaggerated with larger engine) and I think the increased cubes will hinder me as it will create more backpressure (detriments all around), so I think best course of action is to hang it off the front of my 466

keeping the cubes smaller would be better

Yeah, that's about what I'm planning on doing. I just figured most people on a forum are always trying to be "cheap"/DIY and I figured there would be a few here... Guess not! Haha We will have to post our builds on here. I am currently building a turbo (67 mm Ball Bearing) 1992 Mustang GT for a guy at work, when I finish it I will be starting on this BBF Turbo build.
Was looking to see what experience people had with part a or part b.... on turbo motors and how much power they made...
Nothing better than learning from others mistakes instead of your own but looks like it will be quadruple check everything and ensure quality parts!

I'm looking at doing a stock D1VE Block @ 466ci probably (with 4 bolt mains), a stock crank (I have a 4U and a 2Y ABC), ported and polished D3VE A2A heads, Solid Roller cam, forged rods and pistons, adjustable valvetrain, cometic head gaskets, and arp stud everything...(Jon Kaase's shop will do all my machine work) All parts will come from an approved vendor from this site or 460ford.com...
Turbo(s) are still in the air... May do twin 88's or a 106 single or something idk yet. I will be make 100% of the turbo system (minus the turbo of course), it will be completely custom headers, dp, cold-side, etc...

I have a 1972 Mach 1 that is a fully dressed race car (caged, gutted with Lexan all the way around, Sheet metal door panels and dash, fuel cell, etc) This car is so light I pulled it onto an aluma-lite car trailer by myself by simply holding onto the cage and pulling it with the door open!

I also have a SN-95 car that is modded heavily (I have already done thru-the-floor subframe connectors, stripped it completely for more work and I am doing a complete tubular suspension and tubular front-end)

I don't know which car this build is going in but... Whichever it is will be bad a$$!!!

Pusstang wrote:Yea
Nothing better than learning from others mistakes instead of your own Turbo(s) are still in the air...

Yeah, I definitely try to live vicariously through others but it seems as though we will have to be the guinea pigs lol. Your block will be more robust than mine with the 4 bolt mains and going by my preliminary research, with the d3 heads and increased combustion chamber (I will be using c8's) you will have an easier time (and more economical) finding pistons. I'm going with the 106 as it is what I have and it is easier to plumb, plus the car it came off of was running 7.2x's in the early 2000's which is faster than I need to go (clearly a different setup...just saying it can make power). I too will be making my own headers, hot side, and cold side sans intercooler. One thing I love about this car is it is meat and potatoes, just a big engine, and a carb. Whats cooler than that? Well a big engine, big turbo, and a carb of course. Mine will be taking the place of my 466 in my 98 mustang cobra which is currently on nitrous. Car is mostly street duty...just got my vortech bv57 bypass yesterday- big fucker

I just can't believe everyone went H.A.M. on there first turbo BBF and bought thousands of $'s of parts. I just knew there would be some knowledge base here, but everybody seems to have some real high $ $hit! and nothing with stock components... That's slightly crazy to me too bc why spend $ on parts that you already have that will handle the power? Does everybody race for $$$$, bc I know a ton of people that have expensive builds and make NO $ when the hit the track... Oh well! Maybe somebody will chime in, but if not we are going to go H.A.M. and make this $hit work right!
What kind of cam are you going to run? and are you going to run regular cam bearings or roller cam bearings?

solid roller/regular...probably king's

Sounds like a neat build.

just got my vortech bv57 yesterday...one more piece

ifucan wrote:... thinking about going 514...it will have a cast crank and that 106...the limiting factor will be the head...

factory iron passenger car heads have supported more than 1700 hp in turbocharged BBF engines. Your limiting factor will likely be a cheapo offshore cast crankshaft then maybe the offshore steel H-beam rods. I'd suggest an OEM 3.85 stroke 460 crank over an offshore cast 4.14".

Paul

Paul Kane wrote:I'd suggest an OEM 3.85 stroke 460 crank over an offshore cast 4.14".
Paul

yeah, I have decided to go 466 (w/a stock crank)...just wondering if it is worth it to go to a 4 bolt main and do a partial fill? What is the commonly held hp estimate of the stock crank and block on a good tune? Would this be dramatically increased by using billet 4 bolt main caps and a partial fill (still a streetcar so I don't want to remove all cooling capacity).

Paul, what about one of the 2 cranks I already have (4U or 2Y ABC) ?

guessing a 4 bolt main would necessitate a dove block and be of little to no benefit on a d1ve block

Pusstang wrote:Paul, what about one of the 2 cranks I already have (4U or 2Y ABC) ?

Was even thinking about trying to source a commercial 429 crank but it sounds like they need so much machine work that you might as well just go with an eagle or scat forging

Yeah, I have read the same thing about the commercial cranks... But I am trying to stay with a stock crank because unless you buy a forged crank, everyone says the stock cranks are stronger than the aftermarket cranks. So I want to use a stock crank and forged rods and pistons and have everything balanced out together. Is there a stock crank that's better than the 4U or 2Y ABC to do this with that is "easy" to acquire and doesn't require a lot of machining? If not or if they are all equal, which of the 2 are stronger, or have been proved by other builds?
Also, no more than 7,000 rpms will be turned.

Pusstang wrote:everyone says the stock cranks are stronger than the aftermarket cranks...stock crank that's better than the 4U or 2Y ABC

yeah, heard the same about cast to cast...i would go with the 2y for the extra stroke 3.85 v. 3.59 on the 4u and call it a day

Pusstang wrote:Also, no more than 7,000 rpms will be turned.

with a single 106 most likely around 6000 rpm max

ifucan wrote:guessing a 4 bolt main would necessitate a dove block and be of little to no benefit on a d1ve block

Do you think it isn't worth the 4 bolt on a D1VE? I could acquire a D0VE. Would it be that much worth it?

Pusstang wrote:

ifucan wrote:guessing a 4 bolt main would necessitate a dove block and be of little to no benefit on a d1ve block

Do you think it isn't worth the 4 bolt on a D1VE? I could acquire a D0VE. Would it be that much worth it?

from reading up on posts by paul and john mcclain, with splayed mains (which most aftermarket caps are) it doesn't matter dove or any other block...if you have the straight bolts then you would want a dove because the straight bolt pulls on the main webbing instead of the rail like the splayed...I read up on a couple of d1ve motors doing over 1200 with this setup w/o dying and none that did die so there is little to no analysis of where the block would fail...the one that did fail, the crank snapped behind the #1...the dove is definitely stronger but you have to ask...price of dove+hard bloc+main caps+commercial crank+whatever else you are going to do to make it live= little less than an a460 block/eliminator...this is the mentality that lead me to do a dart block in my smallblock car...not looking to spend that coin on this project, unless if I can trade my d1ve shortblock and extra d1ve block for a dove, I'm using what I have and will do the cap conversion, pull the pin and walk away

whatbumper wrote:

with a single 106 most likely around 6000 rpm max

hard to make blanket statements like that...I think it can go more but it will depend on cam specs, hot side setup, and ar ratio...if that is the case, this thing will be an 1/8 mile car as I plan to be at 6k in high gear well before it...the turbo was on a outlaw 10.5 car that went 7.2x's (on a small block granted), and I'm sure there is alot of exhaust energy there (more so than my car will have)...I don't want to get an ams but I may have to in order to track backpressure among other things