Bevels on polylocks touching top of rocker.

I have a Jomar stud girdle on my 545 and I noticed the other day that the bevels on the polylocks were just barely touching the top edge of the stud slot in the rocker arm (Scorpions) leaving a shiny mark. Anyone run into this before? What did you do to remedy?

thier are several different Locks avaliable for different rockers, give Lem a ring.

Good eye. I've had that happen before also, although I have never used Scorpion rocker arms.

As for solutions, you might want to double check the length of the pushrod. Generally speaking, if the pushrod is shorter or longer, it changes the "at rest" position of where the polylock is within the rocker slot. Then when the valve is at full lift, that position will be different also. If your polylock is making contact when the valve is fully open, then use a shorter pushrod.

Next solution, and I've done this before, is to just get a tootsie roll and sand away the offending material of the rocker arm within the slot. Of course there goes your pretty color anodizing, but if the engine is on the dyno, you got to do what you got to do.

Also, like what dfree said, you can call Lem and get different diameter polylocks. Some of them are "stepped" down.

Charlie

These are just barely touching on the sides of the slot. I suppose I could just hit it with a tootsie and be fine. If the polylock base to bevel distance was 1/16" longer this would not be an issue.

BigBlockRanger wrote:These are just barely touching on the sides of the slot. I suppose I could just hit it with a tootsie and be fine. If the polylock base to bevel distance was 1/16" longer this would not be an issue.

Personally, I would use a burr to cut back the aluminum of the offending part of the rocker arms.
I say a burr because sanding grit is SO much more difficult to clean from the fulcrum than any metal chips from a burr.

[quote="rmcomprandy"]

BigBlockRanger wrote:These are just barely touching on the sides of the slot. I suppose I could just hit it with a tootsie and be fine. If the polylock base to bevel distance was 1/16" longer this would not be an issue.

Personally, I would use a burr to cut back the aluminum of the offending part of the rocker arms.
I say a burr because sanding grit is SO much more difficult to clean from the fulcrum than any metal chips from a burr.[/quote iwould cute on the rocker it will void the warranty u can put a harden washer under the poly lock to raise it up. they are hard to find i used 1/4" and drilled them out use and friend machine his poly lock .030 or so both were scorpoin

I considered a hardened washer, but they are very hard to find in that ID/OD and are usually a 0.030" shoulder bolt lengthening shim washer.

BigBlockRanger wrote:I considered a hardened washer, but they are very hard to find in that ID/OD and are usually a 0.030" shoulder bolt lengthening shim washer.

The other option is a slightly longer pushrod if it the rocker is touching at lash or a shorter pushrod if the rocker is touching at full lift.

Thanks for the input everyone!

BigBlockRanger wrote:I have a Jomar stud girdle on my 545 and I noticed the other day that the bevels on the polylocks were just barely touching the top edge of the stud slot in the rocker arm (Scorpions) leaving a shiny mark. Anyone run into this before? What did you do to remedy?

just polish the rocker with a sand roll where its rubbing, it shouldnt be touching much, if too much you need a different polly lock

Finally took a pic.

LOL LOL, IVE SEEN THEM a lot worse by miles, just polish it and go

BigBlockRanger wrote:Finally took a pic.

Put each poly lock on a 7/16 20 stud, chuck it or collet in a lathe and shorten the underneath of the hex and chamfer.

Ok so the solution is pretty simple once I checked Jomar's site and had the polylocks off and in my hands.

From Jomar's Site:

Pro-Model Girdle Bars
All heads with in-line studs use 2.0" Adjustment Nuts.
351C Ford, 460CJ(A429), Ford Blue Thunder use 2.2" Adjustment Nuts.
BB Chevy uses 2.6" Adjustment Nuts on intake studs and 2.0" on exhaust.
"A460" Ford (TFS or SVO Heads) use 2.6" Adjustment Nuts

Mine are 2.0", not 2.2"

I would not recommend buying ANYTHING from ANGUS RACING on Racing Junk. He would not honor his advertised price (should have ran away right then.... live and learn) girdles did not match (Jomar said it was a cosmetic only change, no biggie) see pic, and now I find that they sent the wrong polylocks. How more jacked up could this have been? haha

Thats why I bought my Jomar stud girdle and nuts from Lem......who gets them direct from Jomar.................never an issue.

richter69 wrote:Thats why I bought my Jomar stud girdle and nuts from Lem......who gets them direct from Jomar.................never an issue.

And he knows what works......

Yeah yeah yeah. haha just wanted to post up my findings even if it makes me look the fool. Maybe someone else can benefit from my follies.

lmao

BigBlockRanger wrote:Yeah yeah yeah. haha just wanted to post up my findings even if it makes me look the fool. Maybe someone else can benefit from my follies.

lmao

none of us ever do dumb shit to save money or get screwed on junk parts....... i could tell you some good ones i learned the hard way!