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Project EconoTow

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Post  Doug Rahn December 28th 2012, 7:18 am

I was asked a question on another forum about what is what on some of my drawings so I did a basic one with a few labels. The drawing I work from with all the dimensions and parts on it does get a little busy and can be difficult for some to understand. Sometimes I forget reading blueprints and/or CAD drawings is not something that everybody does, guess I've been building jets too long Laughing Laughing . Anywho here is a screen capture of one that explains a few basic things, so I thought I would post it here too.

Project EconoTow - Page 2 EconolineChassiswithLabels_zpsf001cb98
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Post  dfree383 December 28th 2012, 3:04 pm

What do you intend to use for front suspension and steering?

Also, why mid engine with such a low amount of ground clearance? Just interesting in understanding you layout. It wound seem to me you'd want to get some weight forward?
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Post  Doug Rahn December 28th 2012, 3:37 pm

dfree383 wrote:What do you intend to use for front suspension and steering?

Also, why mid engine with such a low amount of ground clearance? Just interesting in understanding you layout. It wound seem to me you'd want to get some weight forward?

Dave, I'm using the stock straight axle with a little heavier leaf spring that Eaton Detroit Spring is going to make for me. As for the low mid engine, it moves the engine completely out from under the cab, lower center of gravity, and take some of the extra weight off of the front axle. I figure when all is said and done I'll have a pretty good balance between the front and rear axle. Ground clearance will be 7 inches to the bottom of the oil pan, plenty of room for a highway truck. Also with the engine back and the tilt flat bed, any engine work will be a piece of cake.

I made some good progress today. All of the cross members cut and tacked in and I started making the leaf spring brackets.
Project EconoTow - Page 2 EconolineChassis006_zpsec6d0c5e

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Post  dfree383 December 28th 2012, 3:41 pm

I was thinking you where going to due something heavier duty?
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Post  Doug Rahn December 28th 2012, 3:51 pm

dfree383 wrote:I was thinking you where going to due something heavier duty?

You don't think the chassis is heavy duty enough?
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Post  dfree383 December 28th 2012, 4:21 pm

Doug Rahn wrote:
dfree383 wrote:I was thinking you where going to due something heavier duty?

You don't think the chassis is heavy duty enough?

The frame is awesome, but to put stock king pin, spindles and axle seems like a waste to me. If your going to build a tow rig build a tow rig..... Not a show rig!
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Post  Doug Rahn December 28th 2012, 5:14 pm

dfree383 wrote:
Doug Rahn wrote:
dfree383 wrote:I was thinking you where going to due something heavier duty?

You don't think the chassis is heavy duty enough?

The frame is awesome, but to put stock king pin, spindles and axle seems like a waste to me. If your going to build a tow rig build a tow rig..... Not a show rig!

If I could find one that fit, I would. The axle looks pretty beefy to me! Oh, and it's not a show rig!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post  dfree383 December 28th 2012, 5:33 pm

Look under a 90's strait axle f350..... And narrow it. Get a rear out of the same truck and cut it down too.

You get a whole lot stronger stuff and killer brakes too.
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Post  Doug Rahn December 28th 2012, 5:48 pm

I've already investigated that and everything I've read about cutting and welding an axle is an accident waiting to happen.
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE December 28th 2012, 8:33 pm

I forget if it's been mentioned but is the back end going to be leafsprings, or big rig air bags, or a little of both?
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Post  Doug Rahn December 29th 2012, 3:24 am

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:I forget if it's been mentioned but is the back end going to be leafsprings, or big rig air bags, or a little of both?

F350 dually axle with parallel four bar and air bags.
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Post  dfree383 December 29th 2012, 5:24 am

Doug Rahn wrote:I've already investigated that and everything I've read about cutting and welding an axle is an accident waiting to happen.

Why would you have to weld it, do a splice tube and drill / bolt it.
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Post  Doug Rahn December 29th 2012, 8:33 am

That would work, but it would require a precision fit tube to fit the profile of the "I" beam that would have to be machined and that could be rather costly. I think the front axle I have will do just fine.
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Post  Doug Rahn December 29th 2012, 3:57 pm

I had a very productive day today. We got all of the rails and cross members welded up plus the front outboard leaf spring brackets. Laughing Laughing Had my Mig gun so hot I had to keep dipping it in a cup of water to cool it down.

I hope to get a little more done tomorrow, but my brother is bringing his air boat up tomorrow and wants me to help him put some new electric fans on the radiator.

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Post  res0rli9 December 29th 2012, 9:48 pm

Looking real good, nice welds. Smile Cool

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Post  69F100 December 30th 2012, 3:01 am

Doug you using any nozzle dip on the mig gun it works great when welding and gun get hot plus help splatter from building up in the nozzle witch in return help keep splatter of your work.
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Post  Doug Rahn December 30th 2012, 5:38 am

res0rli9 wrote:Looking real good, nice welds. Smile Cool

Thanks, and I'll pass along the compliment to my brother too.

69F100 wrote:Doug you using any nozzle dip on the mig gun it works great when welding and gun get hot plus help splatter from building up in the nozzle witch in return help keep splatter of your work.

Yes I have a can of nozzle gel, good stuff to use, but my brother and I were tag teaming Laughing my welder hence the gun getting so hot. We were definitely pushing the limits of the duty cycle.
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE December 30th 2012, 7:20 am

I tried the Mig nozzle dip stuff something like 30 years ago. Used it a few times and was not impressed with it, it was not worth the mess it made in my opinion. Besides any Mig spatter that does happen to stick to the material being welded is usually easily removed with a simple 4 or 4 1/2" disk grinder with a wire wheel on it.

Shielding gas type also has an effect on the amount & size of any Mig spatter produced. Straight CO2 helps improve weld penetration on thicker materials, but also produces more (and usually smaller) spatter balls that attach more firmly to the material's surface. An Argon/CO2 mix produces fewer (and usually larger) spatter balls that usually don't attach quite as firmly to the base material.

To clean the Mig nozzle I usually just remove it and run a fine rat-tail file inside once or twice when needed. The spatter usually knocks loose easily from a copper/brass Mig nozzle.

One thing I started doing long ago that always seems to reduce the amount of spatter produced was to shorten the Mig nozzle length. I guess it helps because the wire doesn't have to extend so far out-away from the tip to reach the weld surface, thus reducing the amount the unsupported wire can wiggle/move around during welding. The shorter nozzle also seems to improve my ability to see more of the weld puddle/area surrounding the puddle. Only real drawback to using a shorter Mig nozzle is the wire can sometimes burn back up inside the tip (if your wire speed isn't correct) since the tip is closer to the work.
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Post  Doug Rahn January 1st 2013, 3:40 pm

Doesn't that look right at home in there. It's not in the exact spot where it's going, but it's probably within and inch fwd and aft, up and down. Tomorrow I'll have to go to Lowe's and pick up some lumber to get it in the right spot so I can take the cradle off and start fabricating the engine mounts.

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Post  Doug Rahn January 2nd 2013, 5:44 pm

I pretty much spent the day building a wooden cradle and getting the engine exactly where it's going to sit. I probably measured everything half a dozen times. Tomorrow I'll probably check it another half dozen times Laughing Laughing Laughing . One thing I do love about this build, the headers and oil pan will not be a issue, this is more fun to work on than the Mustang, woo hooooo cheers !

One word of advice. If you ever use Gorilla Glue, don't get it on your hands, this shit will not come off. Great stuff, but it will not come off Laughing Laughing Laughing

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Post  res0rli9 January 2nd 2013, 7:53 pm

I can see ZOOMIE'S cheers Cool Razz

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Post  Doug Rahn January 3rd 2013, 8:23 am

res0rli9 wrote:I can see ZOOMIE'S cheers Cool Razz

That would be cool Cool , but I don't think the local law enforcement would go for that Laughing Laughing . Actually I'm planning on using Stainless Works block huggers that will connect to their 3-1/2" Turn Down mufflers that I'm going to use as stacks.

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Post  jbozzelle January 3rd 2013, 1:30 pm

Are you using that engine or is that just in there for mockup?

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Post  Doug Rahn January 3rd 2013, 6:41 pm

I am seriously considering using it, but it will require some changes, and it would save me a bunch of money to use it. If I do I'll have to get some parts from Lem to make it more pump gas friendly, pistons, stump puller cam with lifters and valve springs, intake manifold, and carburetor. The P-51 heads that Charlie did may be a bit overkill, but that's a pair I don't have to buy $$$$. The sooner I can gather all the parts to complete the project the sooner I can retire from Gulfstream. But it is an excellent foundation to start with, Eliminator Sportsman block with some great internals.
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Post  jasonf January 4th 2013, 4:43 pm

Are you putting skyjacker suspension on that thing? How come the motor is so low or does it just look wrong in the picture?
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