Slow cranking, popping at idle and high rpms

Alright well I finally got insurance on the new ride, my 67 fairlane with a 514. It has always started very easily and quickly, but once it gets hot it was giving me issues with cranking slow like the battery is dead. Well now it cranks slow no matter what temp it is. But if I let it keep cranking over very slow, it speeds up then starts like it got momentum. It used to start as soon as I would push the button! Then I started having this issue with it popping out of the exhaust at idle, and when it has that issue it also with start popping/banging at higher rpms like 3500-4000 and higher if it will let it rev more.

I fixed the popping issue when I pulled the cap and rotor and I think the rotor wasn't properly on, but now it's back again and I can't get it to go away. Not sure if both problems have a single cause or not. I changed the ignition solenoid yesterday and it helped the starting problem at first, if I jumped the old solenoid with a screwdriver it would crank good. Then when I hit the start button it would crank good and the first try, then if you let off of it and tried again it would barely crank again.

I have a race coming up (of course) and I have a lot to figure out with this car now that I'm having these problems. I'm going to continue trying things today, if anyone has an idea please let me know. I want to swap the distributor, check grounds and wires.

Load test the battery after you fully charge it, and check your grounds and all connections.

I had those starting issues and found I had to move my ground to block instead of using chassis. Own the mud truck I found battery cable was to small to carry current.   

If the wiring and battery check out "good", installing a PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) starter will do wonders to ease your starting problem. DB Electrical has one for a great price, though I have had an issue or two with mine(they have EXCELLENT customer service) and I had to send it back for replacement. If you want to stay with a Motorcraft starter look for one that fits a '92-'97 F250-F350 w/ 460, they are very good starters. Here is a pic of the DB unit as compared to a stock 460 starter that utilizes a fender mounted starter solenoid.


The PGMR starter(either DB Electrical or Motorcraft) is much smaller in size which helps with heat and/or header/exhaust clearance. Hope this helps. Todd

If your battery is bad I'd replace it with a 16 volt.

Id be looking for a bad connection or a ground issue.

Justin think of it like this you  are trying to start the engine not the frame, so engine ground is a must, you should never use the frame as a ground source.....

now for the back firing at idle or open throttle I would be looking at a timing issue, plug wires, spark plugs I have see distributors with slack in the shafts give illicide timing, also manifold leakage (vacuum leak)also check your connection for crimp if questionable soldier them voltage drop will mess with  a lot of issues...hope this helps....also check to make sure you haven't got a plug wire crossed on the wrong plug....

1lowet wrote:I had those starting issues and found I had to move my ground to block instead of using chassis. Own the mud truck I found battery cable was to small to carry current.   

This. ^^^^^^^^^^^^Get some diesel battery wires, they work wonders.

Thanks for all the replies everyone   Sorry it took so long to respond, I work a lot and can only get personal stuff done on the weekends. I pulled the starter out which ended up being a factory one, although it was small like a mini starter (sort of). Think was jacked up, the smell was on mine and my buddies hands for a day or two after we pulled it apart. I got a CVR starter and it cranks fine now! As for the tuning issue, I tried another distributor and all was well, swapped the MSD back in and had the same issue. I got it to go away but I now have a flat spot at about 4k then it picks back up. Not sure what's going on there but I can't really make any repairs on this distributor.

Is the timing steady at 4k?

Dave C. wrote:Is the timing steady at 4k?

I'll have to check it, I've been changing out the advance springs. It has the flat spot with the original springs in it, and I don't remember it doing it before. They are both heavy springs so I'm thinking at 4k it is throwing the timing around, I'd lock it out but I don't have a start retard.