Cold motor cam break in

Thought I'd check in with the group on this one.

Does engine temperature play a role in flat tappet camshaft break in? I've got a performance marine engine and I'm going to be breaking in the camshaft soon. I've removed the inner valve springs and have the ZZDP additive for the engine oil and a oil pump shaft to prime the engine oil system with. This motor has no thermostat provision or usable thermostat. It is going to be ran out of a bucket/garden hose with open dry header. I figure the water temps to be around 140F towards the end of the 20 minute run.

Will these lower temps effect the mating period that the lobes and lifter faces go through?
This is a pump gas deal...260-270 ish @.050 660-670 lift. It will be my first low temp camshaft break in.

Thanks

XF-66 wrote:Thought I'd check in with the group on this one.

Does engine temperature play a role in flat tappet camshaft break in? I've got a performance marine engine and I'm going to be breaking in the camshaft soon. I've removed the inner valve springs and have the ZZDP additive for the engine oil and a oil pump shaft to prime the engine oil system with. This motor has no thermostat provision or usable thermostat. It is going to be ran out of a bucket/garden hose with open dry header. I figure the water temps to be around 140F towards the end of the 20 minute run.

Will these lower temps effect the mating period that the lobes and lifter faces go through?
This is a pump gas deal...260-270 ish @.050 660-670 lift. It will be my first low temp camshaft break in.

Thanks

OIL temperature will somewhat depending upon the oil choice but, not engine temp.

Just takes longer, average operating temp is 160* if you have a car with an aluminum rad and a CSR pump thermostat delete, aluminum heads etc. then the 20 minute rule may not bring you up to operating temperature, but IMO the lubrication of the mating components is key, 10 seconds without lubrication, is far worse than not warming it up enough during the break in period...run it a little longer, RPM it a bit and build your optinum temps.

rmcomprandy wrote:

OIL temperature will somewhat depending upon the oil choice but, not engine temp.

Do you mean a synthetic vs a mineral oil, or as a light viscosity vs a heavy weight oil?
No synthetic for this break in...

FalconEh wrote:Just takes longer, average operating temp is 160* if you have a car with an aluminum rad and a CSR pump thermostat delete, aluminum heads etc. then the 20 minute rule may not bring you up to operating temperature, but IMO the lubrication of the mating components is key, 10 seconds without lubrication, is far worse than not warming it up enough during the break in period...run it a little longer, RPM it a bit and build your optinum temps.

I'll run it a bit longer and check pan temps with a temp gun as a way to monitor temps. Using a bucket as a closed cooling system and a hose I can somewhat control temps roughly...

XF-66 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

OIL temperature will somewhat depending upon the oil choice but, not engine temp.

Do you mean a synthetic vs a mineral oil, or as a light viscosity vs a heavy weight oil?
No synthetic for this break in...

A mineral oil; preferably low or no detergent. 20W-50 will need more temp to flow well than a 10W-30 would need.

rmcomprandy wrote:

A mineral oil; preferably low or no detergent. 20W-50 will need more temp to flow well than a 10W-30 would need.

Thanks Randy for the heads up and advice...!