Direct me towards some good parts.

i have a 68 mustang coupe that my dad is helping me do the body work on and we are going to install a mustang II front suspension and drop in a 460 stroked to a 532. this car will be used for shows and cruise nights and occasional drag race. the machine work was done and short block assembled , and have pro comp heads to install. I understand the heads aren't worth a dang, but I basically got them free when I bought the block and stroker kit from a guy. I am wet behind the ears and still in high school so I have very limited experience and knowledge so I am looking for some direction on the cam, intake , carb and distributor. any and all advice will be appreciated . since I am still in school, I will be operating on a limited budget, but at the same time, I want the motor to be decent.

fosixty wrote:i have a 68 mustang coupe that my dad is helping me do the body work on and we are going to install a mustang II front suspension and drop in a 460 stroked to a 532.  this car will be used for shows and cruise nights and occasional drag race.  the machine work was done and short block assembled , and have pro comp heads to install. I understand the heads aren't worth a dang, but I basically got them free when I bought the block and stroker kit from a guy.   I am wet behind the ears and still in high school so I have very limited experience and knowledge so I am looking for some direction on  the cam, intake , carb and distributor.  any and all advice will be appreciated . since I am still in school, I will be operating on a limited budget, but at the same time, I want the motor to be decent.

Pay somebody who knows what they are doing to put it all together; that WILL be your least expensive avenue if you can locate someone.

You might consider a Holley 850 Double Pumper, even though it's a little small for that large of an engine. A factory SCJ Cast Iron intake will likely be the least expensive Performance intake if you are looking at new Aluminum ones as a comparison. A Msd Distributor with a 6AL box is nice but, you could get it going with a Dura Spark II on the cheap or a Petronix Conversion of a factory distributor. There are many good Ford Engine building books out there you and your Dad could read up on if it's your first build and see if you want to tackle it. As for as Cams it a Big World in that Department so check around. A Hydraulic Flat Tappet is your least expensive option, and there are many to choose from. I like the one used in the 550 HP 460 SVO crate engine, I believe it was the C460? It's not made anymore but there are some aftermarket grinds that almost exactly duplicate it. These are not the best parts around but, you said you were on a limited budget and they are fairly common and inexpensive most of the time and work fairly well.

thanks for the info guys.

the motor is at the machine shop and is being assembled there. the guy at the machine shop likes to build solid stock motors so he says an rv cam is plenty enough. myself I want dirty mean and nasty that ruins a lot of tires! if I wanted an rv cam I wouldn't have invested in the stroker kit or be putting a 460 in a mustang coupe!

yes I am on a budget but I want the right parts that will finish this motor off nicely. if I need to spend the money on a roller cam , I will. main thing is what will do the motor justice?

If you are after a decent "catalog shelf" cam that is pretty decent and will be a match to the rest of your components then get a CompCams p/n 34-246-4 - hydraulic flat tappet, 276/284@.006" - 228/236@.050" - .547"/.547" valve lift - 110 separation.

Use a "Torquer II" intake manifold for that car unless you have a tall hood scoop.

rmcomprandy

thanks so much for your reply. don't take me the wrong way, I am not questioning your recommendation, but I am trying to absorb and learn all I can. I had sent the cam recommendation form to comp cams and they recommended the 34-247-4. It has a duration of .230/.236 @.050; a valve lift of .562/.565 @ .050, on a 110 LSA . can you please educate me in the difference in your rec and comps? I mean I see the difference in specs but maybe why you chose the 34-246-4 over comps recommendation? also I have heard decent things about the thumpr cams so I would like for you to enlighten me on where they lack. what are you thinking is a decent choice for carb with that 34-246-4 cam, long tube headers and a torker II or stealth intake? thanks again !

fosixty wrote:rmcomprandy

thanks so much for your reply. don't take me the wrong way, I am not questioning your recommendation, but I am trying to absorb and learn all I can. I had sent the cam recommendation form to comp cams and they recommended the 34-247-4.  It has a duration of .230/.236 @.050; a valve lift of .562/.565 @ .050, on a 110 LSA .  can you please educate me in the  difference in your rec and comps? I mean I see the difference in specs but maybe why you chose the 34-246-4 over comps recommendation? also I have heard decent things about the thumpr cams so I would like for you to enlighten me on where they lack.  what are you thinking is a decent choice for carb with that 34-246-4 cam, long tube headers and a torker II or stealth intake? thanks again !

You asked and I told you answers from actual previous testing.

I do this work for a living and your further education on this subject is not a part of it.
Don't take this the wrong way but, DO whatever you want to do.

because he probably doesn't have a scientific answer to question. He's probably just a decent guesser with a lot of time to invest in trial and error. last time I checked this is still a free forum for enthusiast who want to further their knowledge on BBF's if someone isn't willing to give that info up and back it up, maybe they should keep their mouth shut or leave all together. otherwise how is a kid who basically has no real skills to know that said person knows what the hell they are talking about?

I didn't mean to be offensive, and I wasn't questioning his recommendation. I was just curious about the behavior between the two cams. I certainly wasn't questioning him and appreciate his taking time to reply. I would trust a forum members recommendation over a salesman who probably has a cheat sheet but has no real experience. I was more curious to learn the difference in behavior between the two cams just so I get a better understanding how lift, duration ect affects streetable performance.

my daily driver is an f250 4x4 with a 460 built by Jim Kuntz but I wasn't involved in that build in any way so I learned nothing. my dad bought a 63 fairlane for a project for him and I , which we fixed up and sold for 12k , put the money in a savings account for a project for me. I bought this rust free mustang because I figured it was as easy as anything to track down parts for ( the fairlane was tough finding parts for) . a mustang coupe is to common for me, so I wanted to make it mine and make it different than the others I usually see. Kids I go to school with want a z71, a king ranch or a Honda accord, but I love to look at the old pics of super stocks and afx cars. ronnie sox comet, thunderbolts, gas ronda, Hubert platt , dyno don and all them guys. I love it and want to keep it alive. I don't want navigation and 22's, I want halibrands, craigers and hand crank windows, no a/c. I want a piece of history, not a car that looks like every other car on the road. a camry is just transportation, but I am not the kind of kid that wants to live in a house that's the same as my neighbors and drive a car that's also the same. I am me, and I appreciate the era's that defined this country and want to keep that alive.

Very well said!!

stanger68 wrote: because he probably doesn't have a scientific answer to question. He's probably just a decent guesser with a lot of time to invest in trial and error. last time I checked this is still a free forum for enthusiast who want to further their knowledge on BBF's if someone isn't willing to give that info up and back it up, maybe they should keep their mouth shut or leave all together. otherwise how is a kid who basically has no real skills to know that said person knows what the hell they are talking about?

Take a good look at this NICK and you'll get the explanation you asked about ...
this is what happens when some people who just don't know what they don't know assume they are ENTITLED to learn and freely receive all and every bit of information and knowledge someone else has gained through many years of testing and lots of money spent to acquire it. The info WAS freely "given up", an explanation was not.
Nobody OWES anybody here anything other than civility ... any explanation or otherwise.

The facts given here by me, (and any other person who answers a question from a post), were FREE so anyone here can TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT, I definitely don't care one way or the other. To even insinuate that I or anyone else NEEDS to justify or "Back it up" to any ignorant individual is just not gonna happen here so, "stranger68" and anyone who thinks like him can just ignore whatever information they want as being unsubstantiated and spend the years of time and all the required money and make all the necessary mistakes along the way to eventually learn for themselves, "why, what and what not".

There could be and probably most of the time, pages written about a certain choice and subject.  Furthering anyone's education about any Big Block Ford complete engine or component and whatever information given here, was simply a gift.
It should be treated as such.

fosixty wrote:thanks for the info guys.  

the motor is at the machine shop and is being assembled there. the guy at the machine shop likes to build solid stock motors so he says an  rv cam is plenty enough. myself I want dirty mean and nasty that ruins a lot of tires! if I wanted an rv cam I wouldn't have invested in the stroker kit or be putting a 460 in a mustang coupe!

yes I am on a budget but I want the right parts that will finish this motor off nicely. if I need to spend the money on a roller cam , I will. main thing is what will do the motor justice?

I would put that Roller Cam Budjet to a set of SCJ Aluminum Heads Myself.

Bigger isn't always better IMO. Go with the smaller cam. You got the cubes to begin with. It'll be a torque monster. If you had a basic 460 with an RV cam in that car it'd be more power than you could put to the ground without some chassis work...

Fosixty, forgive Randy. He's one of the most knowledgable people here on the forum but he's a full-fledged JERK. He can't help it and wear's it like some kind of badge of honor. You'll learn a lot by reading his posts but if you can avoid communication with him you will be better for it. Good luck on your build. This is a truly great site. Don't be afraid to ask questions. IDT-572(Blake) and BOSS429(Rich) are two of the nicest guys who also know a lot about these BBF's. Feel free to PM them and I'm sure they can get you going in the right direction. The suggestion from comp and the suggestion from Randy on your cam would be hardly noticeable to you. Both good grinds for what you're wanting to do.

BBFTTF!

thanks guys for all the advice and reply's to this post and also to those who sent me pm's. I have to stick up for randy a little bit here guys. I have been talking to him on PM and he has clued me in on a few things and I am appreciative for that. most of the advice I have received from members was to make a boat anchor out of the heads, lol I already knew that was coming before I posted. I basically got them for free so I wanted to use them until I get the rest of the car done, then work on getting a good set of heads. getting new heads now might set me back a couple of months on the car but I am considering doing so.

stanger68 wrote:because he probably doesn't have a scientific answer to question. He's probably just a decent guesser with a lot of time to invest in trial and error. last time I checked this is still a free forum for enthusiast who want to further their knowledge on BBF's if someone isn't willing to give that info up and back it up, maybe they should keep their mouth shut or leave all together. otherwise how is a kid who basically has no real skills to know that said person knows what the hell they are talking about?

Someone needs a HUG...
or Desensitivity classes with Randy

738drvr wrote:Fosixty, forgive Randy. He's one of the most knowledgable people here on the forum but he's a full-fledged JERK. He can't help it and wear's it like some kind of badge of honor. You'll learn a lot by reading his posts but if you can avoid communication with him you will be better for it. Good luck on your build. This is a truly great site. Don't be afraid to ask questions. IDT-572(Blake) and BOSS429(Rich) are two of the nicest guys who also know a lot about these BBF's. Feel free to PM them and I'm sure they can get you going in the right direction. The suggestion from comp and the suggestion from Randy on your cam would be hardly noticeable to you. Both good grinds for what you're wanting to do.

BBFTTF!

Everyone's entitled to their own opinion ... just not entitled to anything from someone else; whatever that may be.

738drvr has it correct - including who to ask questions.
The two camshaft profiles will not have a noticeable difference.
The cam suggested by RM has a little less lift - which could be important if clearance is limited.

RM is certainly very knowledgeable regarding BBF and other engines. He is an old fart, stuck in his ways, and doesn't like being pressed for
answers - or explaining himself. That is just how he is with everyone.

IDT-572, BOSS429, Scotty J. (The Mad Porter) and Lem Evans are equally qualified and knowledgeable with BBF issues.
And they will not bite your head off if you try to learn something.

Cheers,

68galaxie wrote:738drvr has it correct - including who to ask questions.
The two camshaft profiles will not have a noticeable difference.
The cam suggested by RM has a little less lift - which could be important if clearance is limited.

RM is certainly very knowledgeable regarding BBF and other engines. He is an old fart, stuck in his ways, and doesn't like being pressed for
answers - or explaining himself. That is just how he is with everyone.

Cheers,

You are totally correct ...
I feel absolutely no need to justify myself for whatever answer may be given.  You can "take it or leave it", it certainly does not make me feel bad if you "leave it".
You will probably retain more of what you learn. that way.

"Good judgement comes from experience. And, experience ... well, that comes from bad judgement", Ben Franklin

I love this place..............

Went back and re-read the op's first post.

After re-reading your post.

68 Mustang with a 532, mean idle, tire roasting, aluminum heads, and running at the track, with minimal street time.

Sounds to me like your needs and wants would be more in line with a custom flat tappet around 255-265 on a 108 sep with about .600 lift.

It will be street able, in my since of the word. Anything on the street that needs a 2000-2500 converter, in a light car can use a sizable cam.

Cost will be very little more than a generic shelf grind and produce a noticeable power increase.

When you run this combo, and finally get home, you will have to have one of your best buds take a hammer and chisel to knock the grin off your face.

Also, you didn't ask, but if I were you and you go this route. Make sure the frame rails are tied together and some type of traction device to stop axel wrap, of you will break something at the track with slicks on it.

Like others have indicated......I doubt a guy could tell by the seat of his pants which cam was in the engine.

Randy, no one was questioning your recommendation. And it's not about justification. It's a matter of educating the future generation of our hobby. You are clearly capable of doing such. A true enthusiast would gladly do so. If it's not in your job description, then turn off the damn computer!


So the bottom line is as some others have already said... You're a jackass. I think jerk was a little too polite for someone who doesn't know the meaning of the word, in Alabama we call 'em jackasses.

Now that we have that cleared up I won't take up anymore of the kids thread. I apologize for hijacking it.

I have never personnaly used a torker 2 intake. The Weiand Stealth does work better than advertised on a 468 though. Very even pull throughout the rpm range. Even from way down low and doesn't run out up high.

Big cubic inch engines love camshaft. Don't be surprised if it doesn't sound very mean with the previously mentioned bumpstick. Personnally I say go big or go home. Bump that baby up a little. somewhere around .600 range. One reason for the extra lift and duration on the exhaust, it is a crutch for poor flowing exhaust ports. I'm not a guru and I don't do this for a living either. No essay from me either dude, sorry. Best thing you can do is buy some books if really want to understand camshafts. It's way more than anyone could write in a single post here.

stanger68 wrote: Randy, no one was questioning your recommendation. And it's not about justification. It's a matter of educating the future generation of our hobby. You are clearly capable of doing such. A true enthusiast would gladly do so. If it's not in your job description, then turn off the damn computer!

So the bottom line is as some others have already said... You're a jackass. I think jerk was a little too polite for someone who doesn't know the meaning of the word, in Alabama we call 'em jackass.

I'll say this one more time just for you and maybe you can understand but, I doubt it.  "IT IS NOT JUST A HOBBY FOR ME".
Everyone is ENTITLED to their own opinion.... that is it ... if someone's opinion does not agree with yours, you are free to take it or leave it. Your "feelings" mean nothing to anybody else except maybe within your personal circle.
Acquire some fortitude or go cry in the corner somewhere ... I and most other people just don't care whether or not you like it.

You are free to call me whatever you want.
I am not childish enough to reciprocate name calling ... I got over that in the third grade.

That's life...