C-4 vs C-6 Recommendations

Ahhh, I see. You heard he has done away with a problem that you have heard people have....

I was confused for a second there.

Greg

the c-6 I ran had a 2nd to 3rd gear flare if that what you call it, it gained several hundred rpm during the shift..till 3rd gear hit...


Randy

What parts are breaking? Just seems to me that you should be getting more passes than 3 or 4! The C-4 should hold up to that power and torque!(IMHO) ok the weight difference is the PG is 125lbs dry and the c-6 is 145 lbs dry. By the time you add the bellhousing to the glide you have the same weight as the C_6. How much do you drive it on the street?

Never on the street. When the car was first finished it ran 10:12 on the same size radial slicks at Pueblo, CO. I was hoping to be down in the high 9's here in Texas, but have had it take a dump every time I've gone to the track. I'm not sure I've figured out the correct tire pressure for the slicks yet, as the few 60' I've had are around 1.55, but I don't think it's hooking hard enough to be breaking parts. Haven't decided on tranny choice yet, but will advise. Hey, thanks for all the feedback. I'm an old new kid at this. I'll try to figure out how to post some pictures of the comet.

Good luck with it and let us know what you deside to do.

the Coug wrote:

richter69 wrote:Not to argue but the diff in a 1.76 and a 1.80????????? I doubt you could even feel the diff. From my understanding the 1.80 straight cut is the strongest of the bunch..

Jon I am going to call a B.S here now use your head, the 1.80 planetaries are slightly bigger, and the sun gear is 1.65 in Dia. now the 1.76 sun gear is 1.85 in Dia and Truth is the sun gear is what takes the Major load in the trans, so I the extra .200 in the material makes for a much stronger setup....I have seen 2 of these 1.80 broken both aftermarket and it sun gear is where where it broke, I also have seen 1, 1.90 broken and it broke the same place The Sun gear.....


Just an observance but makes sense to me...

Randy

sorry but I disagree with your statement, I have seen more than one experienced trans builder (other than your buddy Oldani) make the statement about the 1.80 being the strongest gearset available. This thread is not about this specific topic, we can start another if you like. Here is one builders opinion, about 3 posts down, Hutch aint no spring chicken.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200427

There is nothing to be noticed between a 1.76 and 1.80 in reality for a ratio change. Take that .04 and multiply it by the rear gear ratio and then divide it again by 1.76. That would give you the effective rear gear ratio your car 'sees' with a change to a 1.80. In terms of strength and physical size the newest 1.6_ and 1.9_ straight-cut gears are virtually the same size as the 1.80's are. The earlier sets were smaller and nowhere near as strong. BTE had one of the first larger-sized gearsets in the 1.65 ratio, and also a 1.96. I generally recommend that around the 800-850 hp area is where to make a move to a better gearset. Including carrier. That's the point where I've seen most output shafts break off carriers, and also where gears fail with more frequency.

Steve

514Comet wrote:I've had a C-4 behind a 514 in my 3200# (including driver) Comet for the last couple of years and make 3 or 4 passes before the tranny gives it up. I'm not qualified to diagnose the problem, so the folks who rebuild it claim to put in "all the right stuff", and I promptly go out and tear it up. I'm thinking of having a C-6 built for the car, but have many people saying go with the 'glide. I'd like to stay with the Ford if possible, but I'm at wits end. The motor makes 620 lbs of torque at 6100 rpm and 751 horsepower at 6800. I have a Munsinger 8" converter that is supposed to stall at 5000, but I'm not sure about that. I've tried using the trans brake (1 pass - Bang!),
leaving off idle - 1 or 2 passes, and foot braking and leaving at 2000 rpm - good for a couple passes. 4 link setup with 4:11 gears and 12" Radial slicks. Very disheartening, aggravating and of course expensive. Recommendations?

your c4 has issues,builder issues. if it was done rite you would'nt hurt a stock one footbrake from 2000rpm.my junk is 4 or 500 lbs. less than you but i have give it all kinds of hell and aint never broke it.i put "good stuff" in it last time it was out just for the hell of it but the stock parts made many 5.70ish passes with 1.22 60'.it had at least 150 passes on it and still looked fine.the builder said he could tell it had been a little hot but nothing like wtf hot. it,s left the line at 5000 off the brake and many many times at 4200.when Blake came to us43 to help me figure out some problems with it last year i even left in 2nd gear one time to see what happened and did'nt kill it,did'nt help it any i'm sure.i dont know any tricks to tell you about a c4 but mine started out a f@#$!%^ from that place called GER,which i do not even want to go into,after the first 3 passes killed it i took it to a good local shop and ordered a performance automatic t/b valve body and went back together. that was in about 1997,it's been apart one time for upgrades.i have no idea how many 1/8 mile passes it's been but it still works.i'm goen to a glide now but the c4 will still be here if it dont work out.good luck with your comet,and your in the best place in the world to find out good info from people who have been in your shoes before.

i have ran 8s in the 1/4 with a dynamic c4 no breakage at 3150 with a sbf and up to a 325 hit of nos, 5.50s in the 1/8 there not cheap but they hold up good. i do not know anybody that runs the c6 most switch to the glide. but it seems that alot are running the c6 on here

Go with a glide. For your horsepower level it will not be that bad price wise.

Now, if you were spraying it I would run a Rossler Turbo glide and some steeper gears. All I have to say about this setup in big block nitrous combo's is DANG!!!
Seen some crazy improvements with just these things done.