Project Cheap Skate - Revision 1

boss56 wrote:Are you still thinking of selling the engine? Do you have a price?

I just put it in the Car !!!

Yes 600hp is totaly doable with SCJ's, I wouldn't do a FT Hydraulic, use a solid lifter on if your on a budget.

on the SCJ's a good valve job and some blending are worth the time and have a very good payback.

What are you looking for? I may have something or can get one together?

Note....... Hooker Fox 460 Swap headers do not work with a mid plate......

dfree383 wrote:Note....... Foxy Hooker's do not work

Fixed it for ya.

kjett wrote:

dfree383 wrote:Note....... Foxy Hooker's do not work

Fixed it for ya.

Nice.....

dfree383 wrote:Note....... Hooker Fox 460 Swap headers do not work with a mid plate......

kooks work great .....

I'm looking at standard stroke scj or similar heads and around high 500's -600hp! Im looking at pump gas 95 octain fuel! Not too wild a cam as i'd like to be able to street drive as im putting it in a 56 F100 street rod project? Any sugestions i would be open to!

do you have a core motor?

boss56 wrote:I'm looking at standard stroke scj or similar heads and around high 500's -600hp! Im looking at pump gas 95 octain fuel! Not too wild a cam as i'd like to be able to street drive as im putting it in a 56 F100 street rod project? Any sugestions i would be open to!

i have a 52 f1 street rod with a 460 and have put a 460 in a 54 f100

nice truck looks good

no core motor just a dove A 2 bolt block and a standard crank

boss56 wrote:no core motor just a dove A 2 bolt block and a standard crank

.030 (or what ever cleans your block up) over Forged Pistons with SCJ Reliefs and 1/16" Ring Pack (you need about about 10.5:1) Probe has some nice ones for the $$,Set of Scat Hbeams, Cut the Crank to get it strait and true, Good SFI Balancer and Flex Plate and Balance. .0025-.003 on the mains and .002-.0025 on the rods. Get a good aftermarket 7qt baffled pan, Melling std vol pump and a windage tray. "0" deck the Block or make sure to get the quench to about .040 to .045.

Set of Ford Racing SCJs with a 30deg back cut on the intakes and a Gasket Match and Bowl Blend, Set of 1.73 Roller Rocker (Comp, Crower, Lunati Ect, Get decent ones), 3/8 Heavy Wall Pushrods. Double roller timing chain.

Cam, get a soild FT custom ground and matching springs and accessories. Specs depend on the balance of the driveline (Gears, Conv, Weight Etc.) Samething in the 240-250 on the intakes and about 10-15 more on the exhaust with about .600-.650 lift on a 108 shoud be close.

Intake, Victor with a 1050 Dominator, if your looking for power and don't care about fuel economy or a 950 hp (4150) for overall good perfromance and maybe a little bit of economy.

Good ignition system, Like MSD or ICE.

Headers 2" Long tubes with 3 1/2" Collectors........

Thanks for the information! Would this combo produce similar numbers to yours? Except for the cam as I wasn't really shore that was along the same lines as I was thinking! What does those clearances on the crank and rods give me? Less friction and easier revving engine?

boss56 wrote:Thanks for the information! Would this combo produce similar numbers to yours? Except for the cam as I wasn't really shore that was along the same lines as I was thinking! What does those clearances on the crank and rods give me? Less friction and easier revving engine?

Should be in the 600hp range you where asking, 680 would need more cam, some full porting work and more compression,

You need more clearance on the crank to allow the engine to spin the rpm necessary and ensure proper oiling of the crank its not about friction or easer reving.

I had been think of using eagle H-beam rods. Are there much differance between scat and eagle? Also i've been looking at a moroso pan ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20614/ ) would this pan be suitable? i already have a Kaase oil pump is it good or use the mellings as you mentioned?
Thanks again for the help on a combo to suit my needs!

boss56 wrote:I had been think of using eagle H-beam rods. Are there much differance between scat and eagle? Also i've been looking at a moroso pan ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20614/ ) would this pan be suitable? i already have a Kaase oil pump is it good or use the mellings as you mentioned?
Thanks again for the help on a combo to suit my needs!

Eagles will work, But I prefer Scat, The machine work tends to be a little bit nicer, but no big deal either way. Yes that pan is fine if it fits your chassis and the Kaase pump is an excellent part and will work great.

dfree383 wrote:Note....... Hooker Fox 460 Swap headers do not work with a mid plate......

Is that the 6224HKR's? I've got those to go in my 66 Fairlane with a Mustang II front end. I've already bought the front plate and was going to get a mid plate as well.

Whats the consensus on going front plate only?

A mid plate is mainly if you have a stiff chassis and want easy access to removing the transmission.

dfree383 wrote:and in fact right now I'll be building this motor out of a storage unit. I don't even own a home right now (Apartment Living SUCKS).

Gonna include the price of the storage unit? I HAVE to when I budget.

Beast wrote:

dfree383 wrote:Note....... Hooker Fox 460 Swap headers do not work with a mid plate......

Is that the 6224HKR's? I've got those to go in my 66 Fairlane with a Mustang II front end. I've already bought the front plate and was going to get a mid plate as well.

Whats the consensus on going front plate only?

You can probably get away with just modifying a couple of tubes. The back ones come back to far and may hit your mid plate depending on its location.

IMO the mid plate is a good idea.

dfree383 wrote:

Beast wrote:

dfree383 wrote:Note....... Hooker Fox 460 Swap headers do not work with a mid plate......

Is that the 6224HKR's? I've got those to go in my 66 Fairlane with a Mustang II front end. I've already bought the front plate and was going to get a mid plate as well.

Whats the consensus on going front plate only?

You can probably get away with just modifying a couple of tubes. The back ones come back to far and may hit your mid plate depending on its location.

IMO the mid plate is a good idea.

For the relative small cost of buying the plate, I'll give it a go. Maybe a bit of grinding on the plate instead of banging the tubes. The ones that I've looked at seem to have plenty of meat, shouldn't hurt the strength too much.

I've been piecing together my engine with the guide lines you gave me. What do you think of this sump? I went with the scat rods as you suggested.

Which sump boss, no link or pic shows up.

Beast wrote:

dfree383 wrote:

Beast wrote:

dfree383 wrote:Note....... Hooker Fox 460 Swap headers do not work with a mid plate......

Is that the 6224HKR's? I've got those to go in my 66 Fairlane with a Mustang II front end. I've already bought the front plate and was going to get a mid plate as well.

Whats the consensus on going front plate only?

You can probably get away with just modifying a couple of tubes. The back ones come back to far and may hit your mid plate depending on its location.

IMO the mid plate is a good idea.

For the relative small cost of buying the plate, I'll give it a go. Maybe a bit of grinding on the plate instead of banging the tubes. The ones that I've looked at seem to have plenty of meat, shouldn't hurt the strength too much.

The big problem I saw was the 3 tube back on the drivers side its a big hit not something your going to dimple around.

Bolt the headers to the engine out side of the car. Trim the midplate template to fit... Then transfer the template over to the real mid plate. Same thing for "In Car" trimming requirements.

sorry i forgot to post the link.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-15-766/

would this be ok it will give me a little more clearance then the moroso one i was first thinking of!