Oil PSI problem

Well I bought a rebuilt 460 from a mechanic that he had in his 2wd. I changed the pan because it was a front sump pan. I bought a new Hi-Volume oil pump with a long pick up tube. I bought a used rear sump oil pan. It had some dents in them and I tried to get them out but there is still some in them.

I had to bend the pick up tube some. I finally managed to get the oil pan on but it seemed to not go on with the JUST RIGHT fit.But it went on anyways.

I used my oil gauge on my dash cluster and it read to the N or O on NORMAL and then the other day it went to the L.


Well I decided to get a manual oil gauge. I put it on. It acted weird and the needle bounced around alot. Well....I managed to get most of the air out in the tube for the OIL PSI gauge.

When I first crank the truck up it runs to 80-70 psi and then eventually drops....when idle it reads 20 psi....when I pat the gas it goes up like it should...but when I give it gas or drive it reads 0 psi and may bounce up to 5-10 psi but then immediately drop back down to 0.




So....what could the problem be?


I also drove it around....hope I didn't mess up nothing.

your pickup is probly too close to the pan.

That sounds like a cracked pickup tube. Probably low enough so it's covered at low RPM's, but get's uncovered when you drive around and pump some oil to the top of the motor. I assume there's no clanking and clattering like a lifter popped out or a bearing is spun?

There ain't no clinging or anything. I don't know about the bearing...

if a lifter pops out you'll have 0 psi at all times.has it had this problem all the time or did it just get it? your pump could have broke,it would'nt be the first.

Well if it did I would be hearing dinging.


I don't hear nothing....

It runs strong and loud like ordinary.







The needle will sometimes pop up to 5 or 10 and then jump back down....


There is oil coming out because the opening on the rear of my valve cover is shooting out oil......(where the piece goes for vaccumm).

So that tells me the engine is getting oil.

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I'VE FOUND THE PROBLEM!


The screen metal piece on the end isn't flat. I guess when I bent the pick up tube it made the end where the oil goes in sit higher thus explains why the Oil PSI reads like it did.



The crank shaft and all seems to have oil on them...

DO I STILL HAVE TO CHECK MY BEARINGS OR CAN I BYPASS THAT?

If you've been running it with little or no oil pressure, you oughta take a look while the pan is off.

like said check the bearings better to be safe than sorry and spine one of them.

DO I STILL HAVE TO CHECK MY BEARINGS OR CAN I BYPASS THAT?

As the old saying goes" pay me now or pay me later". Since the pan is off, I would check them. Do you have to?, Of course not, it's your engine,... but when it "eats its' pigs", don't be shocked.......

Mr. Ford if you have oil shooting out of your valve cover where the pcv is supposed to go there is a good chance that the oil that is supposed to be in the oil pan is all in the valve covers while the engine is running.
This can be caused by a few different problems. Maybe blocked oil drain back holes in the heads, maybe the wrong type of lifters? You need to shut the engine off when it is acting weird like that and check the oil level right away. Then check it again after a few minutes to see how much it comes up.

dkp

I'm currently pissed off at myself.


The rods slide some. Took one off....still silver but you can see some scarring and dots of the copper color coming in.



The crank bearing, I pulled one, mostly copper colored and scarred some.


Crank has some scarring....



DAMN IT!

I'm sure you're not as pissed as you'd have been if you'd just buttoned it up and flogged it

lol

what should i do?

Fix the cause of the problem, take the crank to a machine shop to see if it needs to be ground or simply polished, CLEAN THE ENGINE THOROUGHLY, reassemble with new bearings. Take heart......nobody ever said an education would be cheap. Welcome to hotrodding.

clean the whole engine???

It is clean.

If the bearings look like you say the do, there is trash in the oil galleries.They must be cleaned before you reassemble the engine, or you will have the same problem all over again. You might want to talk to a local machine shop and get some general engine assembly tips. Just because it's clean to sight, doesn't make it clean!!!!!

Oil galleries? So I basically got to remove my whole engine again?!?! Tear it all apart?!?!

Oil galleries? So I basically got to remove my whole engine again?!?! Tear it all apart?!?!

If you want to do it right, you do. Like I said, it's your engine and you can do what ever you please. It appears to me you want a easy solution to a complex problem. Good luck, you're going to need it.........

I'm just going to give up. I'm tired of this.

I guess I sell my F150 and the engine......

Always something.



Or I might as well buy a damn new rebuilt engine cause I just lost my ass again!

Gave my ranger and 1200 for this engine and two parts trucks.....





Cause of my F#@$ up!

If you give up that easily, you may not be cut out for hotrodding.....It's full of little educational episodes like this. But using your head can keep you from unnecessarily abusing your wallet.

Well I guess I can spray carb cleaner all inside the engine (while it sits in the truck) and replace my bearings....


It's just this is my daily driver for now and I needed it running

I'm on my 3rd "freshen up" rebuild in 2 years. Total rebuild in '07, I lost a cam lobe in '08, tore it down, new bearings, cam, crank polish, hot tank, detailed oil pump. Put it on a dyno in '09 and wiped the thrust bearing. Tore it down, cleaned it up, honed it, crank welded and ground, new bearings, main studs and line hone (heat caused #3 to go out of round), cleaned and detailed oil pump. I just had a successful run in and am crossing my fingers. My point? Keep your head up, it's better you caught it early (no really, ignorance is NOT bliss), do it right, learn from your mistakes, listen to the forum members.

Each time you have to sort out a problem and chow down on a parts/machine shop bill, you'll do it smarter and better. It's part of the deal.....but it's worth it.

Well I will clean it out with carb cleaner.


The crank don't seemed that scarred up. I rubbed my finder acrossed it and it is smooth and my fingernail didn't get caught on the part where I pulled the main cap and the rod.