purging out

is purging thru the motor at 3500 rpm ok i have been doing this for a few years.. or is dedicated purge solenoid and line needed.. my system is a dual stage n.o.s. setup with nitrous noids on a d block and fuel noids on a fuel log. so my thinking is that only purge one stage the other should be clear too.. also is fpss neededfor the fuel system and where to install it before reg. or after.

If you have been doing it a few years it must work! I have two systems and purge both systems at about 3500 – 3800.

i dont ever bang the engine .....just me

I always have purged on the motor.

In most cases we never use a fuel pressure safety switch. In many cases they seem to cause more issues then they are worth.. Thanks, SJ

bruno wrote:i dont ever bang the engine .....just me

X2 Do ya ever notice sometimes when ya hit the purge button ya hear the hiss but no nos visible then the 2nd push there it is the big white plume,I don't like the jab the pedal method for that reason you don't know if its full tilt or not and yes the motor will rev even if its not 100 % yet, i know everybody has there own method so this is jmo but i have tried it both ways, also i found the hardest hit is when i purge after the other guy stages i keep my finger on the button and watch his stage light then i purge and bump in i know some guys dislike staging 1st. but i won't budge its just what i'm use too, i had a few that said they hate that because once they stage their concentrating on that light and then the big hiss and big white plume next to them screws them up but thats their fault you should never let the other guy bother you its like the guys that play line games trying to get you on your converter for the full 10 seconds , if i'm running all motor then i could care less who stages 1st. but i still won't bring up the converter soon as i stage i do it soon as they stage.

Sorry but the only way is by doing both.....

Purge the system into the atmosphere is necessary to achieve the desired bottle pressure, especially with a few systems BUT

Banging through the motor is the only sure way to have absolutely zero air in the system. If you only purge into the atmosphere then your still leaving a gap from the solenoid to the plate/nozzles that may or may not be filled with N2O.

I've never seen any TS or Pro Mod guys purging into the air....

Then again I do things with my motor that people say can't be done

on the engine

yellowhorse7 wrote:Sorry but the only way is by doing both.....

Purge the system into the atmosphere is necessary to achieve the desired bottle pressure, especially with a few systems BUT

Banging through the motor is the only sure way to have absolutely zero air in the system. If you only purge into the atmosphere then your still leaving a gap from the solenoid to the plate/nozzles that may or may not be filled with N2O.

I've never seen any TS or Pro Mod guys purging into the air....

Then again I do things with my motor that people say can't be done

well i wire up my system to purge to the atmosphere plus bang thru the motor with both stages im not at your level but still having fun. hope to run some 10s this year with a nothing build best on motor 11.51 @115 and with a 100hp hit 11.18 @126

You never seen any promod cars purging in the air i agree with it being crap from the solenoid to the plate/nozzles i just don't agree with motor purging only but hey everybody has there own ideas. I'd like to hear SJ's thought on this one seeing how he is the juice master

yellowhorse7 wrote:Sorry but the only way is by doing both.....

Purge the system into the atmosphere is necessary to achieve the desired bottle pressure, especially with a few systems BUT

Banging through the motor is the only sure way to have absolutely zero air in the system. If you only purge into the atmosphere then your still leaving a gap from the solenoid to the plate/nozzles that may or may not be filled with N2O.

I've never seen any TS or Pro Mod guys purging into the air....

Then again I do things with my motor that people say can't be done

Why dont you change your avatar pic??BTW atmosphere purge is for pressure, bangin the motor is to get all the air out and clean off the plugs.

Barney wrote:

yellowhorse7 wrote:Sorry but the only way is by doing both.....

Purge the system into the atmosphere is necessary to achieve the desired bottle pressure, especially with a few systems BUT

Banging through the motor is the only sure way to have absolutely zero air in the system. If you only purge into the atmosphere then your still leaving a gap from the solenoid to the plate/nozzles that may or may not be filled with N2O.

I've never seen any TS or Pro Mod guys purging into the air....

Then again I do things with my motor that people say can't be done

Why dont you change your avatar pic??

Done

Im going to have to put a sticker under the front bumper,you driving like that noone will ever see the CIRCLE R on the top,lol

yellowhorse7 wrote:I've never seen any TS or Pro Mod guys purging into the air....

at the Rt 66 divisional there were several cars purging directly into the atmosphere and i didn't notice anyone bang it through the motor. That was in the fastest field of the year.

I know a lot of promod guys and ADRL people that run nitrous and most of the ones I know purge to the air but they don't run their lines out of the engine bay so you can see it. very few of them purge through the motor because their purge solenoids are tied directly to the nitrous solenoids. not saying that nobody does it though. For example: one of my very close friends runs extreme 10.5 in the ADRL with a 726 bbc and sprays over 1000hp and purges to the air.

Agreed, purging both ways is best. First to air, then through engine.

The purge to air gets most of the trapped air out of the main line up to the purge solenoid. The engine bang purges the last remaining bit of trapped air out of the system all the way up to the fogger solenoids.

You might not see a visible purge to air plume on some cars because some guys point the purge tube directly at the intake (as a way cool it some) instead of pointing the tube out from under the hood at the windshield.

Well next time i do spray i will try purging it through the motor after i purge it in the air what the heck it makes since to me it can only hit that much harder And depending on how the atmosphere is that day or night will have everything to do with how big and white the plume is,my purge line is pointed straight up in front of the windshield not at it and depending on the air outside its sometimes hard to see and other times its outragous like your purging a whole bottle empty. And Barney purging in the air isnt just for pressure its also to clean the line from the bottle to the solenoids as well.

nuclearcobra wrote:Well next time i do spray i will try purging it through the motor after i purge it in the air what the heck it makes since to me it can only hit that much harder And depending on how the atmosphere is that day or night will have everything to do with how big and white the plume is,my purge line is pointed straight up in front of the windshield not at it and depending on the air outside its sometimes hard to see and other times its outragous like your purging a whole bottle empty. And Barney purging in the air isnt just for pressure its also to clean the line from the bottle to the solenoids as well.

Really.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Agreed, purging both ways is best. First to air, then through engine.

The purge to air gets most of the trapped air out of the main line up to the purge solenoid. The engine bang purges the last remaining bit of trapped air out of the system all the way up to the fogger solenoids.

You might not see a visible purge to air plume on some cars because some guys point the purge tube directly at the intake (as a way cool it some) instead of pointing the tube out from under the hood at the windshield.

nhra,and others FORBID purging anywhere but up, because of cheating, spraying under hood for carb to suck extra in down track

BOSS 429 wrote:nhra,and others FORBID purging anywhere but up, because of cheating, spraying under hood for carb to suck extra in down track

Around here the motto you keep hearing is "screw the money grubbing NHRA, I'm doing it my way".

Some of the local guys around here that run ADRL/Outlaw cars might never run an NHRA national/divisional event & pretty much setup things the way they want to. The Outlaw cars are pretty much anything goes (other than of course the driver safety stuff), purge exit placement at any desired point, any desired amount of ballast hung out-on the nose, you want to try and make 4, 5, or 6 (or ???) nitrous stages work on your car....fine, you want to run some nitro in the mix....fine, you want to try nitro & nitrous together......fine, you want to put a screw blower AND twin turbos on a car.....go for it, you want to run the front end lower than 3" off the ground......if it don't flicker the stage beams it's all good.

If they keep hammering the little guy the NHRA is going to be the death of the sport . The 3 "big tire" Outlaw shows we have here (outlaw pro mods, automatic pro mods, outlaw top sportman) & the assorted "small tire" shows really keep the 4-5 local tracks damn busy month to month.

Barney wrote:

nuclearcobra wrote:Well next time i do spray i will try purging it through the motor after i purge it in the air what the heck it makes since to me it can only hit that much harder And depending on how the atmosphere is that day or night will have everything to do with how big and white the plume is,my purge line is pointed straight up in front of the windshield not at it and depending on the air outside its sometimes hard to see and other times its outragous like your purging a whole bottle empty. And Barney purging in the air isnt just for pressure its also to clean the line from the bottle to the solenoids as well.

Really.

Yeah really

nuclearcobra wrote:

Barney wrote:

nuclearcobra wrote:Well next time i do spray i will try purging it through the motor after i purge it in the air what the heck it makes since to me it can only hit that much harder And depending on how the atmosphere is that day or night will have everything to do with how big and white the plume is,my purge line is pointed straight up in front of the windshield not at it and depending on the air outside its sometimes hard to see and other times its outragous like your purging a whole bottle empty. And Barney purging in the air isnt just for pressure its also to clean the line from the bottle to the solenoids as well.

Really.

Yeah really

Thought thats what nitrous filters were for. Ive been wrong all this time. Maybe my stuff will run 7s now.

Darn i stand corrected you are right nitrous filters keep it from turning to crap from the bottle to the solenoids

Here is what we tell our nitrous guys and they win a lot.

Use a good water bath nitrous bottle heater, run around that 900 psi number (be consistent pass to pass), don't fill your bottle full (SJ and Monte Smith have both posted this before), blip the purge a couple of times very quickly, and then line up and kick some ass.

We use to start the pass at 900psi and cross the line at 880-890psi. purging through the motor stuff for most guys is for show or they watched a big dog do it and now they think that is the secret speed secret or something. our purge valve is screwed directly to the nitrous solenoid so that purging through the motor doesn't help.

want it to hit harder use a delay on the fuel side and use the gear retards in your ignitions.

Good stuff guys.. Pretty much every Pro Mod I have every seen (including 2 of my own) has had external purge systems on them. You need these to set adjust bottle pressure to desired pressure before the run !! If you set in the lanes to long on one of these 100+ degree days and the bottle pressure gets away from you a little you'd have your engine shot trying to motor purger down 50 or 100 PSI.

Also in the hot summer heat and under the hood temp can get very high. This will sometimes cause the normal solenoid to NOT open. This again is where the smaller purge solenoid is needed. The smaller orifice in these solenoids give them a higher opening PSI rate..

As for purging into the engine, I feel this is a preference. I have guys that do it, and guys that don't. And have gone fast both ways !!!

As for filters, we put filtered fitting at the inlets of ALL of our nitrous and fuel solenoids. Not using filters cause more headaches then you can imagine.

just my two cents... SJ