Alky carb guys, HELP!

Hey guys, I switched over to an Alky Dominator this year, we got it to work great on the dyno, but I ran the car this weekend and it was a dog. I know it is a delivery issue, as it is the only difference. My question is what are my options to get this to work? My current setup is what I had on gas last year. Front mount cell, Aeromotive A1000 pump and filter, -10 feed from tank and to regulator, Aeromotive carb reg, -8 return with individual -6 feeds to carb bowls. Is there a way to keep this pump? I know a belt drive is the way to go, but does anyone make a setup for our motors? Like brackets and pulleys or mandrel? I swapped to the non dyno tuned gas carb and some C16 to see if it was a delivery issue, and it picked up .5, and 6mph. Anyone have a belt drive pump and brackets they want to sell?! Thanks guys!

what style reglator are you using? fuel cell vent size? foam in cell? filter plugged? Lines from reg to carb need to be -8 with electric pump. What brand carb?

A belt pump would be better but I would figure out why this set up is off first. Also what are the mph differences? also what part of the run is off?

Thanks Fabio! The car 60ft'd harder on Alky, thats it. No foam in cell. Haven't checked the filter yet, but I will pull the element right out and try it like that next time. -8 steel line vent tube. My fuel jugs have screens for filters in them anyway. Got some fuel bowl spacers coming too. Also need to add the lean out valve to carb spacer as well. My regulator now is a Aeromotive, with a -10 in, -8 return, and two -6 outs. Aeromotive says the pump puts out 45psi, so I can't believe that it can't keep up. Everyone at the track told me not to run a return style regulator, that you need a return on the pump, or on the return side of the system. What do you think?

Sorry, it was a Bo Laws 1250, but I converted it to Willys blocks. You have a recommendation on a regulator? Also, I have a 3gal cell, filled it up when I got to the track, ran and tech'd the car, made 2 full 1/4mile passes and drove back to pit and still had fuel in cell!

Not familiar with those metering blocks, and you dont need the bowl spacers either. The float level is critical, and it neds to have the .150 titanium needles and seats. The regulator you have is fine, it needs the -8 lines to the bowls though.

Its a hard call as to what the exact problem is, you might put a press gauge on it and verify it has and holds 7.5 psi through the run. If it does the problem lies in that carb.

You are not using enough fuel, it should have sucked that fuel cell dry.

Thats what I was thinking!

My buddy's 1150 apd would use a gallon just to warm his up I would say you are running real lean if you didn't burn but 1 1/2 gals on 2 runs you should be burning atleast that much for one run.

IIRC when I ran 1/4 with the carb the entire circuit took right at 2 gallons, this was using a leanout when driving to the lanes and the return trip. TVRP and TRP havew very long shutdowns so there was a coniderable amount of driving, Sooner is a 1/8th mile track with a short shutdown, seems it took a tad over a gallon there.

whats your jetting on the alky carb? and what do your spark plugs look like? You should be going through a lot more fuel then you are. My 470 FE alky motor went thought 2.5 gallons of fuel between warm up and1/8 pass with driving back down the return road. I also have a front mount fuel cell with two cheap holley black fuel pumps going to a dead head style reg. with a -8 fuel line to each bowl. and I run 9 lbs of fuel pressure with 168 jets squared @ 1000ft air.its a very basic setup with a 1050 dominator. i think on the new 521 I'm building I'll start with around a 180 jet squared and see what the sparkplugs look like.

what is your engine temp before and after your run?

I believe I have the jets at .148 with high flow 3.5 power valves front and rear. Can go up to a .158 jet with these Willys blocks. They do not have a jet, they have barrel valves that you can adjust from the outside of the metering blocks. I do have the BLP blocks with .180 jets in the cabinet still. But no other jets. The carb worked great on the dyno with the setup I have now? But with -8 lines and two separate regulators on the dyno. I pulled the filter apart tonight, it is perfectly clean, it is a Aeromotive in-line 100micron steel mesh type filter. I got some -8 lines and fittings today, and a in car pressure gauge so I have some work to do. Car was cold pulling into water, after pass on return road, around 160. I am also installing the lean out valve in the carb spacer before next time too. Thanks for the help guys! Keep the ideas coming. John.

Throw the 180 jets in and get it up to 160 degrees before the burnout box. Its not a bad idea to get a little heat in the engine. I go into the waterbox about 170 and hit the return road at almost 200 then its cooled of by the time I get to tthe trailer. .

How many cid is your motor and whats your compression like

put the blp blocks back in, you should have the power valves plugged...at least every decent working carb I've been into was this way. Sounds like the carb is jacked up somehow.........you dont need a quick adjust metering bock......sounds like its just causing problems lol. You need to make sure the .150 titanium needle and seats and correct float level is also being used.

I 've got a belt drive hillborn pump and quick fuel bypass regulator I would sell for $275 , that is without a drive or brackets.

I am not saying there is anything wrong with using # 8 carb lines but I personally don't think a needle and seat will flow more than you can get through a # 6 line.

i'd sure try to keep from runnen it lean.a new pump and a few things can be a good deal compared to broke motor.my 02 lol.

KY JELLY wrote:I 've got a belt drive hillborn pump and quick fuel bypass regulator I would sell for $275 , that is without a drive or brackets.

I am not saying there is anything wrong with using # 8 carb lines but I personally don't think a needle and seat will flow more than you can get through a # 6 line.

I'm sure swapping the -6 lines for -8 will not be the cure all in this situation, I know the guys at APD told me with an electric pump using the lower constant pressure that the 8's were a must. With a belt pump the idle pressure is much lower not blowing past the n/s but at speed the 10-11 psi the pump puts out is not an issue with blowing past them.

Its a total package.

Ok guys, I'll have the lean out set up for some heat, and I'll bring the BLP blocks and 180 jets with me next time I go. My motor is 557 cube with 15:1 comp and A429 heads. With my weight and HP this thing should be running 8.90s if I can get it figured out. Oh and, It has the big needle and seats in it, with the round ball needles. I knew this would be a big learning curve! Thanks guys!