How to get my 60' down?

So now that I've got the motor running well I've got some chassis tuning to do. This weekend I ran with the 4.30 rear gear vs. the 5.00 gear of last week. Last week the best 60' was a 1.400 shaking the tires very hard after an initial tire spin, 6.18@113.5mph. This week with the 4.30 best 60' was 1.3877 and 6.204@113.38. Basically the car was a little sluggish thru the middle of the track and ran good on top. Feels like the 60' should be in the low 1.30's. Below is the video from first round eliminations. You can see the tires wind up and hit, the rim is driving to the surface pretty hard and once the front end rises and reaches full extension it looks like the chassis unloads and you can hear the tires screach right at this point.

Currently the strange struts are at full tight, so my thoughts are to limit the front end travel. Currently has 5.75 inches of travel, thinking of tying it down to say 3". More tire psi to keep the rim from bouncing off the ground? Any thoughts are appreiciated....Thanks Brian.

what size tire and how much air psi now? what do you have for rear shocks?

cool40 wrote:what size tire and how much air psi now? what do you have for rear shocks?

29X12 and 7 3/4psi. AFCO double adjustables, not sure where they're set right now.

I dont subscribe to a lot of the setups tossed around on here by a few. I think you still have too much gear. It is just too darn violent to be made consistant. That car should be 1.30 every pass easily.

Rear needs to be full tight and add some air.

Id put some air in the tires for sure.

I believe I would start working with the rear shocks before tying down the front end, that is pretty much a band-aid most of the time. You want to keep the nose up as long as possible. Nose up means the back tires are loaded. Tying the front down will probably just unload it quicker.

What type of rear suspension is in the car? You really need to know where the rear shocks are set. What size tire?

What were the track and weather conditions in the video. In the heat, track conditions suffer. You're not going to get your best 60's this time of year.

When I was running my 28 x 10.5s I had as much as 14 lbs of air in them with tubes to keep the rim off the pavement 1.26 ft 60 best 1.29 normally. Shocks set firm on extension to keep the separation to a minimum (almost neutral).

Race Ready Fabrications wrote:

cool40 wrote:what size tire and how much air psi now? what do you have for rear shocks?

29X12 and 7 3/4psi. AFCO double adjustables, not sure where they're set right now.

you need to know about the shocks.

BigDave65 wrote:I believe I would start working with the rear shocks before tying down the front end, that is pretty much a band-aid most of the time. You want to keep the nose up as long as possible. Nose up means the back tires are loaded. Tying the front down will probably just unload it quicker.

What type of rear suspension is in the car? You really need to know where the rear shocks are set. What size tire?

What were the track and weather conditions in the video. In the heat, track conditions suffer. You're not going to get your best 60's this time of year.

i with you on the frontend.if you tie it down like it is now it'll bounce the rear more.the shocks should be able to stop the hard hit on the tire.what rpm off the brake?

BigDave65 wrote:I believe I would start working with the rear shocks before tying down the front end, that is pretty much a band-aid most of the time. You want to keep the nose up as long as possible. Nose up means the back tires are loaded. Tying the front down will probably just unload it quicker.

What type of rear suspension is in the car? You really need to know where the rear shocks are set. What size tire?

What were the track and weather conditions in the video. In the heat, track conditions suffer. You're not going to get your best 60's this time of year.

Ladder bars. Track was pretty decent, air though sucked. Around 3300 DA last time I checked.

cool40 wrote:

Race Ready Fabrications wrote:

cool40 wrote:what size tire and how much air psi now? what do you have for rear shocks?

29X12 and 7 3/4psi. AFCO double adjustables, not sure where they're set right now.

you need to know about the shocks.

BigDave65 wrote:I believe I would start working with the rear shocks before tying down the front end, that is pretty much a band-aid most of the time. You want to keep the nose up as long as possible. Nose up means the back tires are loaded. Tying the front down will probably just unload it quicker.

What type of rear suspension is in the car? You really need to know where the rear shocks are set. What size tire?

What were the track and weather conditions in the video. In the heat, track conditions suffer. You're not going to get your best 60's this time of year.

i with you on the frontend.if you tie it down like it is now it'll bounce the rear more.the shocks should be able to stop the hard hit on the tire.what rpm off the brake?

I'll check the shocks, after tweaking on them at the track I lost track of where they are at. This was leaving at 4000, that's the smallest chip I had, first pass I tried 5000 and that was a joke, I believe that was a 1.47 60'.

Kinda strange how the MPH didn't change much given the decent gear ratio change, maybe the converter is a little loose on the big end?

The rear suspension separates super fast & a long way on the initial hit. And the rim hammers/screws way down into the sidewall on the initial hit. I would try more air pressure & then try tighter rear shock extension valving before messing with the front suspension.

ladder bars will beat on a tire.you'll need the shocks tight like others have said and more air in the tires too.the noise from the tires are the sidewalls get'n rolled up.your setup will get you where you need to be with the shocks tuned in. ^^^Dave can get you hooked up!

Def need to more air and maybe a little less ger for the tire height. Maybe a 3:90 or 4:10? How's it drive on the hill? Is it wandering?

Get a china marker and use it to write what the settings are on the shocks when you change them. I find it's easier than trying to write it in a notebook while you're in the lanes...

Agree, tire pressure is way to low for a heavy Fox. At 9.5 psi, Mike had a hand full on the big end in my car. We currently run 11-12 psi with a best 60' of 1.33 to date. But my car is a stock suspension deal and is way to sensitive to changing track conditions, especially with limited I/C adjustment. The hit is either to hard or to soft. And I don't like killing the HP we have on hand to get it down the track.