Three wheels ???

I was at the track this past weekend and I changed my four link angle prior and loosened the rear shocks and now the car picks the left front tire about 6 or 8 inches . Is there an adjustment I can make to even things out ? I don't have time to order an anti rollbar and install it before this weekend .

What was the reason for the four link and shock adjustment to begin with? Did it do it before you made the changes?

with a 4-link deal i would have an ARB on there from the get go ......... and as soon as you start leaning on that tune its going to make that problem worse

^^^^^^ for sure get an ainti roll bar like Nick said.

Race Ready Fabrications wrote:What was the reason for the four link and shock adjustment to begin with? Did it do it before you made the changes?

I think the set up was to low and it didn't react very well , the tires were spinning , so I raised the lower bar and softened the shocks , it feels better outta the hole it just comes up on the drivers side. I would put an ARB in but im going back in 3 days , I couldn't get the parts in time and in before then , I will do it after .

I dont have a ARB in my 4 link car and it leaves fine(low 1.2s on the rears consistantly). You may want to put a couple flats in the passenger rear. The ARB will fix it, but until you get that you can make adjustments to make it work.

Barney wrote:I dont have a ARB in my 4 link car and it leaves fine(low 1.2s on the rears consistantly). You may want to put a couple flats in the passenger rear. The ARB will fix it, but until you get that you can make adjustments to make it work.

A few flats , you saying stiffen the right rear shock ?

Different 4-link designs (and also different I/C placements themselves) can cause differing amounts of body roll to happen. Usually (from what I have seen anyway) longer and/or higher I/C lengths can sometimes cause greater amounts of body roll to happen. The "street rod" style 4-link setups with parallel upper/lower bars have (by design) the greatest amount of possible body roll. Some of the ancient true "unequal" length drag 4-links (real short top & real long bottom bars) had the least amount of body roll because some of them were so close to being in a bind from the start.

The right passenger side 4-link bars, and the rear shocks, can sometimes be used to decrease (to some degree) excessive body roll. "Sometimes" is the key word here because it can depend on how big and/or "loose" a car's adjustment window is.

If the 4-link's top bars point downward to the chassis brackets the passenger side top bar can be shortened (or if the bottom bars point upward the pass bottom bar lengthened) a small amount to sometimes lessen body roll. But you have to be careful, if you adjust too far (or the working adjustment window is too small) the car could start to launch to the left.

You could also try staggering the rear shock's springs/valving. You could try a stiffer spring on the passenger side, (or crank up the passenger spring pedestal higher with the existing spring). Or you could try stiffer compression valving on the passenger side/stiffer extension valving on the driver side. But as mentioned before be careful, if you go too far staggering the shocks it can also cause a crooked launch.

An anti-roll really is the best way to control 4-link body roll.

Thanks ! I'll try tweaking the shocks and spring , the bottom bars are pointing up , the intersect point is right around the base of my shifter, and the car launches to the right . I will order a ARB after this weekend .

You have to adjust shock valving and spring preload to compensate for the natural torque motion of the launch of the car. Every car is different and every car hits the tires different so those adjustments will vary depending on every combination. My car was built without a arb and has a 4 link and track locater. The car launches straight and and pulls both front wheels 2-3 feet off the ground depending on the wheelie bar setting. I guess my point is that you can make adjustments to compensate for it, but a ARB is a better choice 90% of the time. Also as long as the car goes straight and leaves hard it really doesnt matter if the drivers side is higher than the passenger side. You may lose a couple hundredths due to body roll and chassis articulation, but if it goes straight and hooks thats what really matters.

jason wrote:..........and the car launches to the right............

Since you say the car already has a tendency to launch to the right the 4-link's side-to-side preload setting might be off a little (top-right link too long). If so, the top-right link being too long can also increase the body-roll to that side. So shortening the top right passenger side bar might possibly be the thing to try first. It could kill two birds with one stone, straighten the launch & lessen the body roll. How far you can go with shortening the top-right bar kinda depends on if the car (while launching to the right) also tries to drive to the right at the finish line. Staggering the rear shock's spring pedestals/valving can also have a similar "double effect" (straighten launch + less body roll).

But which method is "best" for controlling 4-link body-roll without an anti-roll (4-link adjustment vs staggering the rear shocks) kinda depends on the car & personal preference.

Thanks I'll take a look a the four link first .