Re: oil

motorhead November 17th 2012, 8:09 am

What oil would you guys recomend for the initial firing of a re-built 429 and which oil filter should I use?

bbf-falcon November 17th 2012, 8:41 am

If its a stock rebuild,I would use whatever I was going to run in it for the rest of its life. Just a good Motorcraft filter etc. I'm not a Fram fan.

LivermoreDave November 18th 2012, 12:09 am

bbf-falcon wrote:If its a stock rebuild,I would use whatever I was going to run in it for the rest of its life. Just a good Motorcraft filter etc. I'm not a Fram fan.

Rick would you actually start a new engine with a synthetic in the pan? .. Rolling Eyes

.. Although Rick and myself may agree to disagree, unless the bearing shells are about to fall out of their respective containers, a thin multi-viscosity oil with a Motorcraft FL-1A should do fine. After about 30 or 40 minutes you going to drain and change .... right?

Dave.

BOSS 429 November 18th 2012, 12:31 am

motorhead wrote:What oil would you guys recomend for the initial firing of a re-built 429 and which oil filter should I use?

brad penn,and a FL 1 A,

cooter November 18th 2012, 12:45 am

10/30 conventional oil with a bottle of zinc break in additive. I use wix filters. I also add 1/2 bottle of lucas oil stabilizer for an extra safegaurd.

motorhead November 18th 2012, 7:47 am

I know the old timers say to use non- detergent motor oil for the initial firing and then change to whatever you will be using after that. I was not sure about the filter because the motor came out of a 1981 Firetruck and it had a NAPA oil filter that was twice as long as most oil filters.

bbf-falcon November 18th 2012, 7:58 am

LivermoreDave wrote:
bbf-falcon wrote:If its a stock rebuild,I would use whatever I was going to run in it for the rest of its life. Just a good Motorcraft filter etc. I'm not a Fram fan.

Rick would you actually start a new engine with a synthetic in the pan? .. .. Although Rick and myself may agree to disagree, unless the bearing shells are about to fall out of their respective containers, a thin multi-viscosity oil with a Motorcraft FL-1A should do fine. After about 30 or 40 minutes you going to drain and change .... right?

Dave.

Dave,he didn't say anything about using synthetic after breakin. And if he's not installing a new cam,I can't see any reason for a high zinc additive. If it was mine,I would fill it w/Brad Penn and go to town. Very Happy

LivermoreDave November 18th 2012, 8:24 am

bbf-falcon wrote:Dave,he didn't say anything about using synthetic after breakin. And if he's not installing a new cam,I can't see any reason for a high zinc additive. If it was mine,I would fill it w/Brad Penn and go to town.

.... nor any type of oil. If the engine starts and runs immediately and worn production valve springs are intact, a Zinc additive may not be necessary. I will offer you and others a guarantee. A bottle of $10 additive is a damn good investment against a possible alternative!

Dave.

motorhead November 18th 2012, 8:22 pm

It is a complete rebuild. I got a 460 crank along with the rods and a pair of heads from Paul Kane. It has a new cam and lifters along with an adjustable valve train, Probe forged pistons with around 10:1 compression.
I'm trying to keep it fairly street friendly and since this is my first 429/460 I was just wanting to make sure about the initial break-in. Cool

bbf-falcon November 18th 2012, 8:39 pm

Yea,I would def. use some zinc additive if you are using new parts.

bigblok2000ranger November 19th 2012, 11:56 pm

BOSS 429 wrote:
motorhead wrote:What oil would you guys recomend for the initial firing of a re-built 429 and which oil filter should I use?

brad penn,and a FL 1 A,

I have to second that after seeing the stuff myself, I was always a Valvoline VR1 20/50 guy before Rich strongly suggested the Bradd Penn, both the VR1 and Brad Penn have zinc in it but the Penn seems to cling to the metal much better than the VR1.

GT300TD November 20th 2012, 11:25 am

Is there anything wrong with using a good oil and adding the zinc additive? Then use the zinc additive with every oil change.

rmcomprandy November 20th 2012, 11:35 am

Almost everyone has their own rituals and there certainly are many which will work just fine.
Depending upon engine clearances I use Rotella, Delvac or Motorcraft, either 10W-30 or 15W-40 with someones zinc additive, (I prefer the stuff called plainly "ZINC" and it comes in full quarts), but that is another personal preference thing of which many people have their favorite.

GT300TD November 20th 2012, 12:08 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:Almost everyone has their own rituals and there certainly are many which will work just fine.
Depending upon engine clearances I use Rotella, Delvac or Motorcraft, either 10W-30 or 15W-40 with someones zinc additive, (I prefer the stuff called plainly "ZINC" and it comes in full quarts), but that is another personal preference thing of which many people have their favorite.

bbf-falcon November 20th 2012, 7:04 pm

At the seminar I remember Lake Speed Jr. saying to someone who ask that ? He said if you need to add a additive,you are using the wrong oil .

BOSS 429 November 20th 2012, 7:47 pm

GT300TD wrote: Is there anything wrong with using a good oil and adding the zinc additive? Then use the zinc additive with every oil change.

A good oil has ZINC it in it

LivermoreDave November 21st 2012, 8:23 am

GT300TD, we do that very thing when our race stuff is serviced. We use (after break-in) a light multi-viscosity synthetic oil with a bottle of COMP additive every service. Our engines utilize flat tappet design camshafts and spring pressures near 150 PSI on the seat and near 350 PSI during full compression. So far, so good!

Dave.

GT300TD November 21st 2012, 9:48 am

Dave, I was wondering about the synthetic oil and zinc additive. I was thinking about a couple more oil changes with Rotella T and then going to synthetic? The motor has about 500 miles on it with 3 1/8 mile passes, I'll change the oil before I drive it again. It will be the fifth time but I had a little mishap right after break in and want to make sure it's cleaned out good. It's nothing special, a mild hydraulic lifter 11 to 1 466 in a 4200 lb car. Smile

.Thanks.

jbozzelle November 21st 2012, 1:14 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:Almost everyone has their own rituals and there certainly are many which will work just fine.
Depending upon engine clearances I use Rotella, Delvac or Motorcraft, either 10W-30 or 15W-40 with someones zinc additive, (I prefer the stuff called plainly "ZINC" and it comes in full quarts), but that is another personal preference thing of which many people have their favorite.

Randy,

Any details on the stuff plainly labelled ZINC?

FWIW, I've used Rotella religiously in the past without any issues on all of my SBF builds. Always performed great. I used it for break in and the first few passes on the 514, but the power level has me concerned and thinking about switching to something else. I'll probably try some Brad Penn...

69F100 November 21st 2012, 2:54 pm

jbozzelle wrote:
rmcomprandy wrote:Almost everyone has their own rituals and there certainly are many which will work just fine.
Depending upon engine clearances I use Rotella, Delvac or Motorcraft, either 10W-30 or 15W-40 with someones zinc additive, (I prefer the stuff called plainly "ZINC" and it comes in full quarts), but that is another personal preference thing of which many people have their favorite.

Randy,

Any details on the stuff plainly labelled ZINC?

FWIW, I've used Rotella religiously in the past without any issues on all of my SBF builds. Always performed great. I used it for break in and the first few passes on the 514, but the power level has me concerned and thinking about switching to something else. I'll probably try some Brad Penn...

We have at our local Advance Auto Parts here you might check with them.

rmcomprandy November 21st 2012, 5:52 pm

jbozzelle wrote:
rmcomprandy wrote:Almost everyone has their own rituals and there certainly are many which will work just fine.
Depending upon engine clearances I use Rotella, Delvac or Motorcraft, either 10W-30 or 15W-40 with someones zinc additive, (I prefer the stuff called plainly "ZINC" and it comes in full quarts), but that is another personal preference thing of which many people have their favorite.

Randy,

Any details on the stuff plainly labelled ZINC?

FWIW, I've used Rotella religiously in the past without any issues on all of my SBF builds. Always performed great. I used it for break in and the first few passes on the 514, but the power level has me concerned and thinking about switching to something else. I'll probably try some Brad Penn...

It comes from a small company in Oil City, PA called "Les Frickshun Products, inc."

Rotella and all diesel oils have changed greatly over the last 6 years. Zinkdialkylphosphate has slowly been removed from the chemical make-up of that oil, (CH-4 to CI-4 to CJ-4 API service levels), so only about a third still remains from what it had just seven years ago.

The percentage of zinc and phosphate can be adjusted one way or the other also and still have the same chemical name. An example is the EOS from GM has slightly less phosphate in their newest version but, the zinc in that compound remains the same.

jbozzelle November 21st 2012, 6:02 pm

Thanks

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