Oil pan

I'm putting together a A-460 block motor in a SN95 car, it's going to have motor plates and I am looking for a oil pan. It's going to have an external oil pump/fuel pump. It's going to be a wet sump pan I think. I have a Canton pan now, but it doesn't quite clear the K member. If I have to get a custom pan, is 7 quarts enough? I'm trying to avoid the dry sump and tank thats all.

give lem a call , he builds some custom pans that are worth hp and proper oiling ....... btw 7-8 quarts will be fine .

8 qts. including filter seems to do a good job.

Lem, do you build custom oil pans? Steel or aluminum? Do you know if a pan could be modified in the center, I have a Canton 13-772 now it's 5" in the center.

I have a guy that builds my pans per spec. Seems we are stuck with ~ 5" in the center to clear the rack and K member...but... if you are going with the external oil pump it's a better deal. Not having the pickup tube above the 5" section allows better anti-windage/oil control devices.
Basically the the pan can look like you need it to......within the bounds of good judgement. Yes, they are aluminium.

Are we stuck with that 5" in the middle with out a pick up tube? A-460 block with a 4.5 crank? I was thinking I was going to use a Canton windage tray as well. Would it be possible to increase the cap to say 8-9 qts?

95 COBRA wrote:Are we stuck with that 5" in the middle with out a pick up tube? A-460 block with a 4.5 crank? I was thinking I was going to use a Canton windage tray as well. Would it be possible to increase the cap to say 8-9 qts?

More than 5" is doable "IF" the pan will not touch any part of the K-member/rack. I would not use the Canton or most other trays in an external pump application....reason being that , w/o the tube in there , what is needed can be installed in the pan.

Oil capacity: 8 qts is an easy deal to do. 9 qts is not out of question depending on a few factors.
1] For what ever reason Canton's pans are but 7" from the back wall of the sump to the front wall....the Moroso units are 8-3/4"...more room for oil.
2] If a pan is done 'flange in' on both sides rather than 'flange out' like the stock pans more oil can be accommodated.

If you have questions you may call........I'm typed out

Thank you I will talk to you on monday.

hey 95cobra what would you take for the pan coming off the car now? know mybe we can work something out on i!

I will let you know in 2-3 days if I can use it or not.

ok cool!

I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you, I think we are going to be able to use this pan.

I like your idea of an external oil pump in conjunction with a "wet oil pan". Your concern of the offset for the rack and pinion unit will be eliminated when your new pan is designed for use with an external oil pump, it eliminates the front sump, therefore you have a bit of "wiggle room" when positioning the engine fore and aft. The front sump is necessary with an internal oil pump, such as Ford applications with front mounted oil pumps, to offer clearance for the pump and the pump's attachments. Remove the internal oil pump assembly and you are allowed to remove the oil pan's front sump. If a custom pan is your option, you may fabricate a thinner (less depth) at the rack and pinion area that will allow you to lower the engine a bit lower. As Lem has mentioned, during the design phase of the oil pan, include the oil control fixtures within the pan. Rear sump pans designed correctly usually offer good oil control. IMO, the front sump of a rear sump pan is a nuisance, but it has to be there when the internal pump is used.

Dave.