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newbie to transbrakes.. info on how it works

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514Fox87
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Post  5pointslow January 7th 2013, 7:28 am

well being my last car that ran 11s was a mustang with a 5 spd .........and now building a car with a glide and brake ,

was wondering honestly how does this work .

#1 can i stage car hold transbrake button in and button the pedal to the floor , and it should only go "rpm" to were ever the 2 step is or chip in ignition correct ? let go and then should flash to the convertor correct ? im kinda looking for transbrake info on how it works and to stage car with one .....lol transbrake for dummie or newbie

#2 i still need to get a convertor after engine gets dynoed .

thanks
Andrew
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Post  bigblok2000ranger January 8th 2013, 12:31 pm

I prestage wait for other racer to prestage bump into the staging beams and push the button and put it on the boards the converter works a mechanical rev limiter and as soon as I see the first amber let the button go.

I am new to transbrakes last year myself but this is how I was told to do it.
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Post  5pointslow January 8th 2013, 1:02 pm

do you run a 2 step wired in on the trans brake also , so your launching the same every time \

Also your leaving top bulb on a sportsman tree correct ? or a pro tree ? the index racing up in New wngland we are using a .400 pro tree
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Post  bigblok2000ranger January 8th 2013, 1:35 pm

No two step hooked to the transbrake and pro tree .400. I know all the bulbs light at same time but I just concentrate on the top bulb. I was told not to use a rev limiter on the brake by several because you don't want the engine to get a run at the converter. I am new to this myself so hopefully some more experienced guys will speak up.
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Post  5pointslow January 8th 2013, 2:25 pm

thanks for info .... so when your engaged t brake button that is and you put the peddle to the wood the convertor actually acts as a limiter in a sense ......not like throwing a clutch in and reving i should say
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Post  richter69 January 8th 2013, 2:31 pm

I would use a 2 step.............imo its like a trainwreck without one and I have seen no diff in et......... easier on stuff too.


http://m.youtube.com/index?&desktop_uri=%2F#/watch?v=5vLDAYFYNoA&feature=mhee
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Post  whatbumper January 8th 2013, 2:35 pm

Please use a 2 step. You do want it to flash the converter. So set the two step below the flash rpm even if just a little bit. Tie the two step and brake together.

Stage, button, mat the peddle

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Post  richter69 January 8th 2013, 2:41 pm

....... turn button loose and hold the motherf-ck on......... Wink
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Post  5pointslow January 8th 2013, 3:05 pm

explain more give me an example of your guys car

say the convertor is a 5000 rpm deal

you would wire trans brake - 2 step below that say 4000 rpm ............stage .. engage button put peddle to the wood ........and let the bitch eat and hang on !!!!!!


somthing like that ?
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Post  whatbumper January 8th 2013, 3:38 pm

5pointslow wrote:explain more give me an example of your guys car

say the convertor is a 5000 rpm deal

you would wire trans brake - 2 step below that say 4000 rpm ............stage .. engage button put peddle to the wood ........and let the bitch eat and hang on !!!!!!


somthing like that ?

yep. you can play with the launch rpm to maximize your 60ft potential. seems as if every combo reacts differently.

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Post  bosshoss January 8th 2013, 5:58 pm

Definitely run the two step. At the very least with a chip in it that holds the converter at its normal stall rpm. If you get left hanging for a second or two the rpm will creep higher and higher without it. Just gives you a more consistent launch.

Word of caution if you run a delay box.

Make sure the trigger for the two step is wired to the output from the delay box to the transbrake and not the switch. otherwise you will release the two step before the transbrake.

dkp
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Post  the Coug January 8th 2013, 6:03 pm

just for you insight also when you are on the trans brake the trans gains 100* per second so you don't want to keep it there for very long.
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Post  5pointslow January 8th 2013, 6:29 pm

thanks guys great info
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Post  whatbumper January 8th 2013, 6:33 pm

the Coug wrote:just for you insight also when you are on the trans brake the trans gains 100* per second so you don't want to keep it there for very long.

This is something to think about but...

Not saying this is false information but I don't get 100* with the turbo car and we don't run a cooler. You do build heat the longer you are on the brake but I've never seen it that quick.

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Post  soupbean January 8th 2013, 10:27 pm

whatbumper wrote:
the Coug wrote:just for you insight also when you are on the trans brake the trans gains 100* per second so you don't want to keep it there for very long.

This is something to think about but...

Not saying this is false information but I don't get 100* with the turbo car and we don't run a cooler. You do build heat the longer you are on the brake but I've never seen it that quick.

This caught my attention too. 100* per second? Is this a fact?
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Post  richter69 January 8th 2013, 11:05 pm

maybe not 100* per sec but it does build fast, more so without a 2 step chipped down.
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Post  whatbumper January 9th 2013, 1:14 am

richter69 wrote:maybe not 100* per sec but it does build fast, more so without a 2 step chipped down.

very true. That's why converter and transmission guys like the use of two steps.

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Post  bosshoss January 9th 2013, 4:19 pm

Havent checked with a temp gauge or anythiing but I know that when doing test stalls on stands in the pits my cooler will go from normal warm to literally smoking hot within a second or two on the brake.
Temp inside the converter is way higher than the oil in the pan at that point for sure.

dkp
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Post  soupbean January 9th 2013, 5:35 pm

bosshoss wrote:Havent checked with a temp gauge or anythiing but I know that when doing test stalls on stands in the pits my cooler will go from normal warm to literally smoking hot within a second or two on the brake.
Temp inside the converter is way higher than the oil in the pan at that point for sure.

dkp

Wow. Then I guess the guys you see make a couple of dry hops before staging then getting on the brake with a full tree before the other guy is fully staged is REALLY pissing off their transmission.
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Post  whatbumper January 9th 2013, 7:21 pm

We do log temps.

Dry hops? I thought that was an 80's deal. Lol


Last edited by whatbumper on January 10th 2013, 12:25 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Phone auto corrected to wrong word)

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Post  soupbean January 9th 2013, 11:30 pm

whatbumper wrote:We do log temps.

Drop hops? I thought that was an 80's deal. Lol

Nope. Still see them every race I go to...
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Post  514Fox87 January 11th 2013, 6:03 pm

I too am new to the transbrake racing. I just bought my delay box from powerstrokeace and after researching it I am going with a Starting line control instead of a 2-step. That way I set the box up, stage, push the button and mat it, but the starting line control will keep the rpms down to what I set it at and wired into the box it opens wide open throttle the same time the transbrake comes off. I don't like a 2- step because of heating the tranny fluid and I don't like all the banging and popping. Just my 2 cents.
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Post  Alberts Kin January 11th 2013, 9:50 pm

soupbean wrote:
whatbumper wrote:
the Coug wrote:just for you insight also when you are on the trans brake the trans gains 100* per second so you don't want to keep it there for very long.

This is something to think about but...

Not saying this is false information but I don't get 100* with the turbo car and we don't run a cooler. You do build heat the longer you are on the brake but I've never seen it that quick.

This caught my attention too. 100* per second? Is this a fact?

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Post  soupbean January 11th 2013, 10:35 pm

514Fox87 wrote:I too am new to the transbrake racing. I just bought my delay box from powerstrokeace and after researching it I am going with a Starting line control instead of a 2-step. That way I set the box up, stage, push the button and mat it, but the starting line control will keep the rpms down to what I set it at and wired into the box it opens wide open throttle the same time the transbrake comes off. I don't like a 2- step because of heating the tranny fluid and I don't like all the banging and popping. Just my 2 cents.

Your starting line control? What is this? Something different than a line lock/roll control? A line lock only keeps the front brakes engaged until you release the button and cannot control rpm. The 2 step does not heat the tranny fluid. That is the trans brake. The 2 step only limits rpm (to your desired setting) until the button is released. If you don't use the 2 step to control rpm then your rpm will be limited to what your converter can stall to and that will build much more tranny fluid heat as read above.
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Post  514Fox87 January 12th 2013, 8:06 am

Starting line control goes on the linkage of carb. You have a small CO2 bottle that is plumbed in and the valve for it is wired to the delay box. You can adjust your rpm on it. After staging the car and hitting the transbrake you mat the loud pedal but rpms only go to the preset ( I will start at about 2500). Then when the delay releases the brake it also opens the throttle. to WOT. Yes the brake causes heat but with a converter that flashes at 5600 it is not putting heating up very fast and there is no 2 step beating on the bearings and rods.
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