9" Ring and pinion set-up

Ok folks, I'm going to try and set-up a new set of gears in my car. It has the following in it now :

Strange 9" Nodular 3.25 bore case w/ chrome-moly caps & steel adjuster nuts
STRANGE/FORD 9" PINION SUPPORT
Ford yoke - 9", 28 spline
9" STD FORD 4.11 MOTIVE GEAR

I'm planning on going to 4.56 or 4.87 Strange pro gears

What special tools will I need ?

I read where the Daytona support a crush sleeve isn't required, true or false ?

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

is it a small pinion 28 spine pro gear or the big 35?

hell if you could stand a street gear i have a 4.71, 4.86 anda 5.00 if you wanna try um...

I know the difference in the gears are the type of metal it's made from but, why is one more desirable for the track then the other ?

The gears I have it now are Motive street gears.
What's the HP/Torque limits on the street gears ?

And I do leave off the brake also.

Small pinion 1.313

hard to say, the street gears will take a beating though.

The 4.71 a small pinion ( 1.313 ) 28 spline ?
I think that would be a better gear and I won't have to have Lenny loosen my convertor up any.

yesir..... pm me.

On a drag car if it has a cheap crush sleeve spacer, I would swap it for a cut to fit solid pinion spacer (or a short solid spacer + shims kit). If you don't know what the correct freshly assembled pinion support bearing/seal preload is supposed to "feel" like (when you spin it by hand) you might think about getting a beam style inch pound torque wrench to measure the pinion assembly preload/drag.

You don't need a high dollar gear setup tool to install gears/set the depth, but it helps. Without a setup tool (and therefore no ballpark pinion depth shim to start with) you might have to invest some more time/effort trying a larger number of depth shims & checking more times to find the best drag (or street) wear pattern. You might also think about getting some gear marking compound to see the wear pattern easier. Other stuff like grease or white assembly lube can also be used to see the pattern, but the gear marking compound works best.

The softer nickel pro gears will take a greater amount of launch hammering before cracking/breaking a tooth than the harder street gears will. But it's hard to say exactly what hp/tq level a street gear would fail on a drag car since the car's weight also plays a part too, as does if the car dead-hooks on the launch or has some wheel speed.

The harder street gears will last/wear far longer on the street than the softer pro gear will. The pro gears wear fairly fast on the street & can end up with some razor sharp teeth from the wear.

If you do not have any gear marking compound I go down the wally world and buy some cheap red lipstick and use it, it works great and easier than hunting down marking compound...also if you don't have a spanner wrench take a piece of 3/4 or 1" flat strap and drill and tap to 5/16 (perferably min 8 grade) in the end and screw a bolt in and nut it from behind, cut the head off 1/2 from strap and lay the spanner nut over it to give you an Idea where to drill the next hole, center punch at about 1/3rd to 1/2 way across the nut and drill and tap and install a bolt and nut and cut the head off like the other end. Test it to make sure it fits. Debur it and you have a wrench now.....also get a small plastic mallet or dead blow hammer to tap on spanner nut when preloading center section bearings...and a magnetic dial indicator setup.