rear brakes?

Big Ford ford 4 1/2 bolt pattern with 2 3/8 x 3 1/2 axle flange what the cheapest way get some brake on the rearend without buying high dollar brake kit?It a 8.8 with 9in ends with no brackets or anything.Looking for a safe way but don't empty the pocket.

aerospace

bruno wrote:aerospace

X2

We've been very pleased with our brakes.

Strange stuff is competitively priced IMO.

If you want a cheap , cheap rear disc brake kit that is very functional with off the shelf parts you can go to your local roundy round shop and buy some weld on GM Metric caliper brackets, approx $12.00 each. I beleive the rotor that you are looking for would be from a jeep wagoneer, they have a 4 1/2" bolt circle and as long as they slide over the od of the axle and the register in the center they will work ( have to do a little research ) about $30.00 each new. Then you need a GM metric caliper, a right and left again about $25.00 each new and the necessary brake pads and slider bolts probably another $40.00 if you buy them new also. You will have to make an axle retention device unless you have a set of Moser/ or Strange bearing retainers that came with the axles in which they are readily available at either place.

Again you will have probably about $170 new in the whole setup. The rotors are a little heavy (like any factory truck or car production rotor) but the key words are functional and cheap. You can get the package a little cheaper with used calipers and slide bolts too. It's actually a pretty good setup once its installed. I did this a few years ago on a customers 65 Falcon and also a 62 Pontiac Tempest. The beauty is you can run this for a year or two, trim the brackets off, sell it for what you have in it and break even and put the money torward a Aerospace / Strange / or Wilwood setup.

Just some useless info.

Thanks Travis some very good info.

Just looked on summits website part#AAF-ALL42102 Allstar performance caliper bracket for $11.49 each sounds like the one u talking about Travis.

Summit also has some Summit brand kits that where they put together a bunch of factory parts to make a kit. They are cheaper than an aftermarket kit and essentially they did all the leg work to find the pieces and make it a kit.

I bought this kit for a customer on a budget once and it had the same parts I mentioned above. This is where and why I did the research to find out what the kits were made up of ----------- $239 + shipping .......... you make the call.

http://www.racingjunk.com/Brakes/1546400/9-quot-Ford-Weld-On-Disc-Brake-Kit-Quick-Per.html

That what im talking about this forum is great with members that know there shit.

Rear disk brakes off of an Explorer will work if your 9" housing ends are the large Torino style. I use them on my mustang.

Jess

Mustang-junky wrote:Rear disk brakes off of an Explorer will work if your 9" housing ends are the large Torino style. I use them on my mustang.

Jess

X2 on this and what Travis said.

I did that on my 86 the first time around, (thanks again Travis) I found two new aluminum Gm metric calipers at a swap meet.

Just done another one this weekend on a S-10 pick up with a nine inch ford under it. I back halved it for a customer. I had to open the rotor hole up to go over the axle hub.

Works great...........

At what point should a person pony up the dough for the aftermarket rear disk brakes If he already has oem rear disc brakes?

I would say when a person wants to loose some weight and rotating mass. Those factory style setups are HEAVY ........ they perform well but at the price of the additional weight. This is something like the loaded age old question of when a car is not streetable anymore. Everyone will have a different interpretation.

So it's more a function of weight than speed?

It's not just about loosing some weight when going to the aftermarket "drag" brakes. The aftermarket stuff also gives you choices in brake pad materials, rotor materials, rotor sizes, multiple calipers on one rotor, etc, etc. Plus most of the heavy duty/bigger OD drag setups are a dual piston/fixed caliper layout (calipers don't need to float/slide) so you don't have to worry about uneven wear from a stuck OEM caliper not floating on the pins correctly.

OEM or aftermarket what ever you choose to use the basic rule of thumb is the wider/fatter vented rotors are meant more for higher heat "constant use" applications like street/highway use, road racing, etc, etc, but can also be used for drag racing if you want to. But the real thin non vented "drag" rotors are for mostly drag racing, and have a greater chance of warping under the higer heat generated in a constant use application.

Dave is right. Although there used to be a disclaimer on the drag race 3/8" rotor brake kits and I have been unable to find it. They used to state that the 3/8" rotor kits were for 3000lb and lighter cars. I have seen many and many of cars including some of my own in which I opted for the 3/8" drag race kits knowing full well that the car was WAY heavier than the recomendation. The brakes thier self worked fine but warping the rotors was a common issue. Mine would actually cup or become bowl shaped from the heat of trying to stop a 3900lb car @ 150mph. There is a good read over at the Wilwood FAQ page.

LINK here >>>>>>> http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechFaqs.aspx

In the end it is the owner or installers responsibility to be truthful with ones self for the real application. A vehicles weight and intended use comes into play and I feel there is no concrete ONE answer that fits all situations.