Brad Penn oil particles? NOW WITH PICTURES

Guys I'm trying the Brad Penn stuff this year and I completed an oil change and ran the cars long enough to check the transmission since I just gone through it. its been sitting a few weeks and I just pulled the valve covers and have this BLACK monocles looking stuff floating around it. I can't post pictures from my phone
Ace

Yea same stuff in all the brad penn engines around here. If im not mistaken it is from the amount of zinc in the oil. If your not running a flat tappet cam there i see no reason to run that stuff. There is horsepower in a better oil.

Brad Penn 10w30 in mine since new 2 years ago. No specks, particles or anything else I that I can see. Very Pleased with it.

I've never seen anything at all in mine.

I'm wondering if it has something to do with the old oil that was in the motor (Valvoline)


Acec

Take a sample and have it analyzed.

What happesn when you put it on your fingers and rub them together? Can you feel grit,metal,or maybe moly lube?

I don't see it in the oil lying on the retainers

Interesting, I sell a lot of Brad Penn at the store, and I have not had anyone say anything about anything like this.
like was said, does it feel gritty or anything?

Also, could it be carbon or some sort of buildup somewhere that the Brad Penn is causing to release?

Somebody mentioned that there was better oil, any suggestions?

Ace,
I had the same thing with both the Brad Penn 20-50 and the Durablend 20-50. I had been trying the blended oils as I had been told handle they alky a little better. I also see what looks to be the same stuff in the bottom of the oil filter can - and I see a lot of it in the bottom of the oil pan whenever it comes off. I ran 20-50 Castrol GTX last year after freshening the engine and still had it though not as much. This year I am trying the 10-30 Syntec Castrol. Only have 10 passes on it so far - pulled the oil filter and cut it this morning and I am still seeing it in the bottom of the filter can - though I don't see it in the heads - hopefully it will be a while before I have to look in the pan... It definately is more pronounced with the Dura Blend or Brad Penn.
I can't really get a feel on it - I just feel the oil when I try. It could be moly lube, but the only moly lube I ever use in the engine is on the rod bolts and you sure would think it would go away pretty quickly - or it could be from the coatings - this engine has both coated bearings and skirts - or maybe it has something to do with the addative pack or mixing with the alky -
It doesn't seem to have created any issues - I have been noticing it for several years now.

Just my thoughts..

Kurt

Looks like moly lube. I run Shell Rotella and have it as well inside the VCs. Only 4 passes on mine and the filter picked a bunch of it up as well. Probably be in the VC area for some time unless you actually pump a bunch of oil up there.

prosandguy wrote:Interesting, I sell a lot of Brad Penn at the store, and I have not had anyone say anything about anything like this.
like was said, does it feel gritty or anything?

Also, could it be carbon or some sort of buildup somewhere that the Brad Penn is causing to release?

Somebody mentioned that there was better oil, any suggestions?

Joe Gibbs is really good. If thats too much money Amsoil's racing line isnt too shabby, but its not much cheaper.

moly lube or anti seize from under valve spring cup

Guys it really don't matter any more as this motor is now scrap. It's Strange how this is the only thing done to the engine this past winter and it had 60 psi of oil pressure the whole time and on the 2nd run at the 1/8 mile it starts shuttering and I seen it still had 50 psi of oil pressure which get it from the rear of the block and the accusump has 55 psi of pressure still holding after I removed it. It has a electric valve and I always pre oil the motor. It has me stumped as it has no #8 bearing left and the crank is junk. The rod broke in half and when part way out of the pan. Looks like the only thing good is the dove block cam lifters and the heads. Another note that all the pistons on the left side just barely had contact with the heads. I'm not sure why this happened.

the piston contact could sure be the issue.here is what my #1 looked like and i'm sure if i'd made the pass it would'a came out. it had about 6 passes on it and 60 psi when i cut it off.

powerstrokeace wrote:Guys it really don't matter any more as this motor is now scrap. It's Stang how this I the only thing done to the engine and it had 60 psi of oil pressure the whole time and on the 2nd run at the 1/8 mile it starts shuttering and I seem it still had 50 psi of oil pressure which get it from the rear of the block and the accuse has 55 psi of pressure still holding after I removed it. It has a electric valve and I always pre oil the motor. It has me stumped as it has no #8 bearing left and the crank is junk. The rod broke in half and when part way out of the pan. Looks like the only thing good is the dove block cam lifters and the heads. Another note that all the pistons on the left side just barely had contact with the heads. I'm not sure why this happened.

did you check the deck clearance when you where putting it together?

Machinest could have had the decks machined different.

this combination has been together since 2000. with freshen ups in between. I for got to mention that the crank is clearly cracked. I haven't had time to tear it all down but I will get it done this week. as for the deck to piston clearence was .000 and the compressed head gasket is/was .038. I think the pistons skirts are just wasted and this is what caused the very slight kiss to the head. Hell i know why the #8 hit the head.
Just trying to decide if I should mess with this block any more or get a motorsports block and start fresh.

Ace

Piston rock could definetly be an issue