OIL DRAINBACK

Hi All, just wondering whether you think the front of the block oil drainback mods would still be neccesary on a front pickup sump.
(Drag Use ).

Thanks

Oil drainback is ALWAYS important to me.....front and rear. I'd do it.

That's what i thought just needed to make sure before i got the drill out.

Thanks Maverick

before you get the drill out make sure you read Paul Kanes instructions if you are a small amount off you hit water.. so read it and make sure...


Randy

Yeh i seen his website i have been studying his instructions for a few days might have to take some prozac to keep the drill steady.


Thanks

just hate to see someone drill it and hit water, not a good thing then you have to get another block... be careful..


Randy

Yeh i hear you any advice is good advice that's why we are on here.


Thanks

When i did my block i started small and worked up the drill size. hope that helps out a little.

Do it. It's not a big deal. You would really have to screw up to hit water. The biggest thing is to be very careful when the dril breaks thru. It will want to grab and "screw" the bit in and hit the driver's side cylinder bank. Also, be sure to take a die grinder and grind a nice radius on both sides of the holes and be sure to drill your holes so that they are even with the bottom of lifter valley so all the oil will flow out. I usually take my 3/8" egg burr and run thru the hole making a slight downhill slope out the front and then a nice radius down the front of the block.

David Willingham wrote:Do it. It's not a big deal. You would really have to screw up to hit water. The biggest thing is to be very careful when the dril breaks thru. It will want to grab and "screw" the bit in and hit the driver's side cylinder bank. Also, be sure to take a die grinder and grind a nice radius on both sides of the holes and be sure to drill your holes so that they are even with the bottom of lifter valley so all the oil will flow out. I usually take my 3/8" egg burr and run thru the hole making a slight downhill slope out the front and then a nice radius down the front of the block.

X2. I've did quite a few of these,and I actually enjoy doing it. If you follow Paul's lead you will be fine. The one that I always say a prayer before I do is the one from the front cam bearing to the dizzy gear. I'm always scared of breaking that little bit off in the hole.

If you enjoy doing it, why didn't you do mine before I brought it home. Now I have to screw it up.

You guys are great, would the front cam hole to dizzy still be exposed with a roller cam bearing installed or would i have to knock it out i haven't got the block at home to check?

Thanks

342g wrote:If you enjoy doing it, why didn't you do mine before I brought it home. Now I have to screw it up.

Bring it w/you Wednesday Harold, and we will do it You can be my shop bitch for the day

If you have roller cam bearings you must grind a shallow grove, to connect the oil passages, in the front cam bearing bore BEFORE installing the front roller cam bearing.

I think thats's already been done Chuck is that the one that feeds the cam thrust plate you talking about?


Thanks

bbf-falcon wrote:

342g wrote:If you enjoy doing it, why didn't you do mine before I brought it home. Now I have to screw it up.

Bring it w/you Wednesday Harold, and we will do it You can be my shop bitch for the day

I'll do that, pm, me your home address, so I can put it in my gps.

you got it

chuck stevens wrote:If you have roller cam bearings you must grind a shallow grove, to connect the oil passages, in the front cam bearing bore BEFORE installing the front roller cam bearing.

You got me worried coz i don't trust some machine shops so i knocked out the roller bearings tonight and to my suprise it has been done it has one shallow groove connecting the two passages and one feeding the cam thrust plate so all i have to do is the dizzy mod (not looking forward to it) i did notice however that they didn't tap and grub screw the main tunnel feeds to cam bearings as suggested by SVO in there instructions should i do this ?

Thanks Again

NO. If you look at the stock front cam bearing you will see a groove from 6 O'clock to about 3:30. That connects the oil passages. That groove does not exist with roller cam bearings. It must be cut into the block ( I use a 1/8 ball burr in my DREMMEL tool) or NO oil will flow to the distributor stub.

Yes I think you misunderstood me that groove has been cut into block,what do you think about the restrictors from the main feed to cam
as recommended by SVO. My lifter bores are not bushed also and i don't have restrictors in crossover should i bush lifter bores or just do crossover restrictors. Sorry about all the questions just want to make sure everything is done right while the engine is apart and there's alot of knowledge on this forum.

Thanks

I'm not aware of anybody that is still restricting oil to the cam bearings any more. They need all the help they can get. I use the wider cam bearing sets available from at least 2 vendors,,,on this site. BTY, most avoid using CLEVITE cam bearings. Duro-bond seem to work better.

So Chuck does that that still apply to roller cam bearings and what do you think about the lifter bore & crossover scenario i was talking about.


Thanks

If you look at the roller cam bearings...you'll notice that there are NO oil holes in them. They block the oil passage when they are pulled in...so why would you need to block (or restrict) the holes again? As to the lifter bores...is there something wrong with them? Are they too big? Do you enjoy spending money to "fix" something that is not bad? Is there a reason to bush the lifter bores?

I thought they bush the lifter bores to help restrict oil flow sorry i asked geez

When using a stock block in a racing application it is not uncommon to bush the right bank of lifter bores if, A) they are worn excessively and/or B) when using a SFT or roller cam. You are correct, it's for oil control. (Do not do it with a hydraulic lifter cam). The reason to bush only the right side is that it's where the main oil gallery is. The left bank oiling can easily be control with a restrictor in the tower to limit oil flow to the left bank. As to the restrictor, a .125 hole is plenty large, a .090 is often used and, a .060 can work IF the bottom end clearances are tight. It often requires a change, or 2, to get it right for your engine. Burnt pushrod tips and smoking valve springs would indicate that the restrictor is to small. If you decide to bush the pight bank, it's advisable to drill the bushings corectly before installing them. If you drill to high or low you won't get oil thru the lifters to the top end. Oh, the cam, since you've got the roller bearings, be sure the cam is ground on a 8620 or 9310 billet. The rollers will eat anything softer.