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Chasing an air bubble

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Post  NO FAIR July 11th 2013, 5:46 pm

Trying to get my brakes all bleed out, and I am puzzled. I know on a brand new system it is more involved bleeding the master cylinder new lines etc. It is 100 times better than it was but I still have a soft peddle on the first pump. Here is the question I think my problem is on the front brakes with the factory 4 piston calipers (67 fairlane) the jumper tube going from one side of the pistons to the other side has drastic bends (factory) do you think the air is trapped in that transition? My friend suggested running the car a few times and the vibration of the car might settle the bubble, we must have bled all sides 4 times, any suggestions?
Thanks
Dave
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Post  hbstang July 11th 2013, 6:26 pm

master cylinder?also,when you say bleed,are you using a vaccum pump to pull fluid or pushing the pedal old method?
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Post  NO FAIR July 11th 2013, 6:29 pm

Pumping the peddle and we tried the vacuum pump
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Post  maverick July 11th 2013, 8:14 pm

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder?

A soft pedal that pumps up firm usually points to the master cylinder, IMO. If the mc is correctly bled, then vacuum bleeding the rest of the system should be as good as it gets. I assume all the bleeders are at the top of the calipers?
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Post  racnrick July 11th 2013, 8:48 pm

Dave,
Don't know if it applies to your master cylinder, but on my 91 Ford pickup, when I replaced the master cylinder, and was bench bleeding it, the instructions said NOT to push the plunger in more than 1". I have always push the plunger all the way on others, don't know why they say the 1". Maybe someone on here knows. I can only think that if you do the rubber cups slide across one of the fluid transfer holes and maybe cut the cup????? But if that was the case your pedal would go down slowly when stepping on it. When pedal bleeding, I've always push the pedal all the way to the floor, so what would be the difference between 1" on bench bleed and the full distance on the pedal bleed?
If you want to use it, I have a power bleeder.


Last edited by racnrick on July 11th 2013, 8:57 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : spelling)

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Post  NO FAIR July 11th 2013, 9:11 pm

We did bleed the master cylinder first and the bleeders are on the top for the front discs but on the bottom on the rear discs.
Rick, we still need to take care of that item for you.
Dave
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Post  Dave C. July 11th 2013, 9:22 pm

Are you getting any fluid out of the front bleeders? The propotioning valve on the Torino was clogged up and I couldn't get the system bled. Rebuilt the valve and solved the problem.

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Post  NO FAIR July 11th 2013, 9:26 pm

Yea it's getting bled properly, although I will have to add a t post proportioning valve so I can install a gauge to see the psi going to the rear discs so I guess I will be bleeding everything again anyways.
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Post  maverick July 11th 2013, 9:30 pm

NO FAIR wrote:We did bleed the master cylinder first and the bleeders are on the top for the front discs but on the bottom on the rear discs.
Rick, we still need to take care of that item for you.
Dave
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If your rear bleeders are on the bottom, you'll need to either swap the positions of the bleeders and lines, or remove the calipers and flip them over for bleeding. Otherwise air will be trapped above the bleeder with no way to escape during the bleeding process. Get the bleeders up top.
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Post  NO FAIR July 11th 2013, 9:50 pm

Correction my bad the bleeders in the rear are in the top and the lines are in the bottom. The fronts are just different than the rears the way the pistons are set up.
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