Any unique solutions for this line?

This winter the timing cover has to be pulled for a gasket replacement and when I reassemble I want the best solution for the small rubber hose between the water pump and manifold. Has anyone found one material or trick that worked best since this is an annoying spot to have to revisit? I did some searches but didn't find what I was looking for (lots of other good stuff though). Thanks.

you run a t stat?

richter69 wrote:you run a t stat?

My mistake, I don't know why I would assume anyone would know my setup without me properly describing it. This is a '71 block that's 60 over with D0VE ported heads and solid cam. A street vehicle with 180 degree thermostat that is working towards more nitrous use with a sledgehammer plate from Steve Johnson. While I have the timing cover off I want to check the Pete Jackson gear drive to see if needs replacing and ensure I get that little rubber tube replaced correctly without concern. Thanks for your help.

if it had no t stat you could plug it, but you run one.

just put the waterpump on after the cover is installed, put the hose on the pump and just slide the hose on the intake fitting as the pump goes on..... no big deal really.

Id replace the gear drive for a billet chain set from ford racing imo.......

richter69 wrote:if it had no t stat you could plug it, but you run one.

just put the waterpump on after the cover is installed, put the hose on the pump and just slide the hose on the intake fitting as the pump goes on..... no big deal really.

Id replace the gear drive for a billet chain set  from ford racing imo.......

The Pete Jackson gears were installed long before I found this site and with it proper guidance, the billet timing chain I will install as I've read nothing great about what I have now, thanks for the advice. I don't have trouble lining up to put the hose back but was wondering if anyone found something fairly robust to use. I only had it split on me once and it was an older piece of line but what a pain to replace without removing everything and what a mess under the hood.

just use a good quality hose, i dont know anything that would work better being that short..you could plug it still and use the heater core circuit w a braided hose...... w a t stat you need coolant circulating through the block and heads somehow while the t stat is closed.

Thank-you for the help, trying something different this time by asking the right questions first and only doing the job once. Appreciate the guidance.

I'd plug it and run a restrictor instead of a t stat. If you have to run a t stat could drill a hole in the solid part of the stat that would allow water bypass until the stat gets warm enough to cycle.

norm wrote:If you have to run a t stat could drill a hole in the solid part of the stat that would allow water bypass until the stat gets warm enough to cycle.

This is what I did and it worked great. It didn't take much...think I did about (4) 1/8" holes. Did more at first and it took forever to heat up...

Maybe try some silicon hose instead of rubber. I believe that the late 80' early 90's mustangs had or you could get silicon hoses. It's supposed to last longer, maybe give it a try.

jeffgfg wrote:Maybe try some silicon hose instead of rubber. I believe that the late 80' early 90's mustangs had or you could get silicon hoses. It's supposed to last longer, maybe give it a try.

Damn, never thought of silicon. I'm a little nervous of drilling the t-stat as Murphy has a bad habit of visiting the truck and I  

What is there to be nervous about? If you don't want to use the bypass hose, I don't use it, either drill a hole in the stat or run a restrictor.

norm wrote:What is there to be nervous about? If you don't want to use the bypass hose, I don't use it, either drill a hole in the stat or run a restrictor.

Ok Norm, you convinced me. I picked up a thermostat on the way home and will drill 4 1/8" holes. I won't be doing the swap until this winter when my friends shop slows down since a number of jobs will be combined. Thank-you again for all the responses, I have just enough knowledge at times to make me dangerous  

Fwiw a trick I've come up with to install the hose with the motor together is throw it in a pot and boil it then take it out quickly and squeeze, twist or bend it on. It works everytime and mine is ultra short since I have a threaded nipple in both ends. Is their any real benefit to bypassing or eliminating the t stat?

To the op have you ever ran your truck at the track? I see its 4wd so I'm not exactly sure what you built it for.

tfsbbf466 wrote:To the op have you ever ran your truck at the track? I see its 4wd so I'm not exactly sure what you built it for.

I've had the truck for about 22 years now, it was purchased to just play around and make some junk runs. Used to drive it all the time and then got into mud running but got tired of spending more time washing dirt out of all the crevices then driving. As parts broke from the abuse they got replaced with more performance oriented ones and the focus became the street and over the last few years it's been just been a big, loud and ill mannered toy. So what did I build it for? Well to have fun as it's really good at nothing but a blast at everything. Two week-ends ago a group had the track booked and everything was set for some runs and then the rain started (and didn't quit for days). So for next year it will have a billet timing chain to replace the gear drive, a drilled t-stat and the NOS cheater plate is getting upgraded to an Induction Solutions Sledgehammer plate. Current build will only safely take a 250hp shot so there is room to grow but learning how to get this things down a track will be entertainment.

77f150 wrote:Well to have fun as it's really good at nothing but a blast at everything.

Lol well put. Didn't mean anything bad btw just wasn't sure if your ran mud, sand drags or mostly asphalt. Sounds like a good time to me

All I have ever used were good Gates hoses, all I do is cut the hose to proper length pinch it in half and start it on both ends then push down with my thumb in the center. Works perfect everytime.

What happens if you run a t-stat and no bypass hose?

When I was putting mine together I just folded the little hose in half around the handle of a ratchet extension and pressed it onto the fittings on the intake and water pump, worked like a charm.