1987 Ford Ranger

I had a guy I work with offer to sale me his 1987 Ranger he had since he bought it in new 87 it been sitting for some years right now it has the 2.9 v6 with a 5 speed. About 8 years ago I help him put the heads on it he had a cracked manifold and burnt a valve he put about 200 miles on it the fuel pump went out and it has been in his garage ever since. The body is in great shape as best I can remember it is a ext cab I know the whole fuel system will have to be gone thru. I am thinking about getting it and putting my 460 that was in my Ranger in it with a c6 trans. Just wonder what all would I need to put it down in it and still be able to drive it on the street and how would the front end hold up on the street. If I was just going to drag it I wouldn't worry I don't want to run motor plate I want it rubber mount for the streets headers I will build my own or use mine off my ranger and build another set for it to come out in front of the tires fender exit.

I guess what's "legally" required (inspection wise) to be done to put a 460 in an older Ranger for street use depends on what state the vehicle is located in. In Texas any car 25 years old and older doesn't have to pass a sniffer/computer test. They only have to pass a general safety inspection and a "visual" inspection of any required smog equipment. That means the required smog stuff just has to be there, but it doesn't have to actually work. And any smog equipment required to be on these older cars only has to match whatever was required for the car/body year used, but not the swap engine's year.



The twin I beam's funky geometry is always going to be a PITA in a combo like this, but they are damn simple. And switching it over to a MII setup or to Fox/SN95 struts can be a lot of work just to have a 460 in an older street/daily driver Ranger.

Keeping the rear leafsprings & just adding a good set of slapper bars is also a simple way to go.

http://www.bigblockranger.com/ This might help, or give you a few ideas.

Dave we don't have any inspection to worry about here as long as all the lights work and it has mufflers and it don't smoke like a freight train. I want to keep it stock looking if I do decide to get it and put my engine in it hood scoop I know I will have to have. I got/will have the frontend out from under my 2000 Ranger I know it handles I could us that will save some money.


supervel45
Yes I remember bigblockranger build from back then thanks for the link I couldn't remember his site name I was hoping he would chime in. But if I do buy it the little truck it will have to sit for a while longer got to much going right now to jump it to it right now. Trying to get my shop finished and my Ranger frontend and trans swap done 1st.


Just trying to see what all it takes like I said for racing only I would not worry about but for the street don't want a death trap might take it to the track from time to time. They was a white long wheel base here but don't remember his screen name.

Steering gear vs. oil filter mount is the biggest hurdle besides headers.

I drilled and tapped the block for remote filter lines because I wanted the engine to sit lower in the chassis. In hindsight, I would probably not do that again and just live with the engine being mounted a little higher in the chassis.

Regular truck oil pan (fox swap pan) works fine.

North-South room in the engine bay is tight on these trucks. Trying to get a fan and water pump in there can be a challenge.

If I were wanting to do another v8 Ranger, I'd do another 5.0L one hands down. Especially if it was going to be a driver.

I read all through his build, as you raised my interest also. The FRPP mounts where to high, for his liking. The Dodge rear end and traction setup where nice, but alot of work, but it looks like he worked it out and should be easy to copy, and a 8.8" or 9" subsituted, if thats your flavor. The SBF in a 393-408 would be alot less hassle, I would think also, and may produce the same or better results on the street. The BBF would have the cool factor going for sure, and you can use what you allready have. The Chevy Luv and S10 guys, may have a problem, if he can get traction.  The weight bias will be bad I am afraid, and trucks are hard too hook.

Well now he thinking about keeping it now he going to let me now Monday if he is going to carry it with him or sale it he moving out of state. Been thinking today/tonight if I get it just pulling the 351w out of the 69 and dropping it in the Ranger and go ahead and put the 460 in the 69. Been debating on putting it in the 69 for a year or so I originally bought and built the 460 for the 69 then decide to build my Ranger instead of the 69.

I would put 69, and save the aggravation, but I don't like stress either. Hope it warms up and you get your shop lined out. To many projects at a time can be a pain.

Jim it is super easy to put a 460 in the early Rangers, you can run manifolds on them if you wish. I use hockey pucks to lift the body ~1" and a manual steering box, the heater box can be trimmed to retain heat. Move the trans crossmember frame mounts to the forward holes (they have two set of holes) and a C-6 truck tranny fits right in. I use solid motor mounts which is just a piece of 3/16" plate drilled to bolt to the block and a piece of 1 1/2" square tubing about 4 1/2" long (easiest to mount transmission and hold engine up with hoist to height where everything clears then measure the distance) (been awhile but seems it was right at 4 1/2"). If you use manifolds you must use 70's era truck manifolds.