BBF - 429

Hi Guys   

Ok, to start it off here's the build...
1966 Galaxie 500 2 Door Fastback...currently with a 289 and a C4

The plan... 69 429 "thunder jet" with a C6 ...C9VE-B block...c8se-9425 intake...c9ve-a heads...

I'm on a limited budget...if I have to buy big...I want to buy smart (I'm a SBF guy, this is my first BBF) coming here to learn from guys that know there Fords.

What parts can I pickup on the cheap and where do I need to expect to spend the big $$$...what machine work can I do myself and what do I need to take to a pro. Are there interchangeable parts?...I'd greatly appreciate the recommendations and the knowledge.

Thank you
Brandon

Depends on how much HP you want to make? Are you going to stay at 429 CID? Porting the heads and going to a SCJ intake, or a better intake, is where I would start. You will have plenty of compression, unless you change heads or pistons, and with a decent cam, and carb, plus headers, will make good power, on the cheap.

NorCal66Galaxie wrote:Hi Guys   

Ok, to start it off here's the build...
1966 Galaxie 500 2 Door Fastback...currently with a 289 and a C4

The plan... 69 429 "thunder jet" with a C6 ...C9VE-B block...c8se-9425 intake...c9ve-a heads...

I'm on a limited budget...if I have to buy big...I want to buy smart (I'm a SBF guy, this is my first BBF) coming here to learn from guys that know there Fords.

What parts can I pickup on the cheap and where do I need to expect to spend the big $$$...what machine work can I do myself and what do I need to take to a pro. Are there interchangeable parts?...I'd greatly appreciate the recommendations and the knowledge.
Thank You
Brandon

Make that engine a 460 with a good valve job and the right camshaft.

Those mods are the best "bang for the buck" anywhere.

supervel45 wrote:Depends on how much HP you want to make? Are you going to stay at 429 CID? Porting the heads and going to a SCJ intake, or a better intake, is where I would start. You will have plenty of compression, unless you change heads or pistons, and with a decent cam, and carb, plus headers, will make good power, on the cheap.

Well I was thinking... For the bottom end...Punch it 60 over, dropping a 460 crank into it, main girdle, windage tray, arb hardware, forged pistons, balanced...I want the Jon Kaase oil pump for sure.

Intake and cam...Weiand stealth intake, hyd. Roller cam conversion...cam under .550 lift.(1800-1500)850cfm carb. Not sure where to degree cam at? What kind of advance are we talking on the timing?

The heads is where I start to question it all... Will a mild port on the c9ve-a head support or choke the build...will a cheap set of Procomps be better than stock?

Again...its what a want to do... not sure what's a need vs. want. Are there weak links in the 385 series that should be addressed?

At the power level you're after, strength is not a problem. Any BBF will easily handle what you're planning.  A little massaging on those heads will make you happy, too.  Like Randy said, use the 460 crank...excellent gain for the $$$.

On the cheap?  Ditch the useless main girdle and use a flat tappet cam.  I know your SBF's like the hyd. rollers, the BBF...not so much.  They can work, but you did say, "on the cheap".

On the Cheap? Use your heads w/mild porting good valve job w/bigger valves,good flat tappet w/roller rockers,performer (dual plane intake for street), 750/850 Holley,2500 stall and 370/391 gear and a shift kit C6.AND make it a .030 w/460 crank. You don't necessarily NEED forged pistons for street driving,

The heads is where I start to question it all... Will a mild port on the c9ve-a head support or choke the build...will a cheap set of Procomps be better than stock?


Leave the Pro Comps heads where they are your heads will work better then them spend what you going to pay for the pro comps on your heads you will be happier.

NorCal66Galaxie wrote:

supervel45 wrote:Depends on how much HP you want to make? Are you going to stay at 429 CID? Porting the heads and going to a SCJ intake, or a better intake, is where I would start. You will have plenty of compression, unless you change heads or pistons, and with a decent cam, and carb, plus headers, will make good power, on the cheap.

Well I was thinking... For the bottom end...Punch it 60 over, dropping a 460 crank into it, main girdle, windage tray, arb hardware, forged pistons, balanced...I want the Jon Kaase oil pump for sure.

Intake and cam...Weiand stealth intake, hyd. Roller cam conversion...cam under .550 lift.(1800-1500)850cfm carb. Not sure where to degree cam at? What kind of advance are we talking on the timing?

The heads is where I start to question it all... Will a mild port on the c9ve-a head support or choke the build...will a cheap set of Procomps be better than stock?

Now it becomes rather obvious that the OP is a small block proponent ... the instant he mentions a main girdle and hydraulic roller camshaft for the needs of any Big Block Ford engine built on a supposed low budget.  

OP, don't interpret this the wrong way but,  you should do a couple hours of reading about pertinent past engine builds for a clue about what is simply necessary to need with a big block engine on a short budget.

"Now it becomes rather obvious that the OP is a small block proponent ... the instant he mentions a main girdle and hydraulic roller camshaft for the needs of any Big Block Ford engine built on a supposed low budget.  

OP, don't interpret this the wrong way but,  you should do a couple hours of reading about pertinent past engine builds for a clue about what is simply necessary to need with a big block engine on a short budget."

admittedly a SBF proponent and EFI at that....that's why I said I was out of my zone.. Carbs and flat tappets leave me baffled. Why would someone want to change jets/adjust lifters all the time? Not lazy, just don't understand the benefits. Like I said earlier here to learn from experience...

69F100 wrote:The heads is where I start to question it all... Will a mild port on the c9ve-a head support or choke the build...will a cheap set of Procomps be better than stock?


Leave the Pro Comps heads where they are your heads will work better then them spend what you going to pay for the pro comps on your heads you will be happier.

Great advice thank you

bbf-falcon wrote:On the Cheap? Use your heads w/mild porting good valve job w/bigger valves,good flat tappet w/roller rockers,performer (dual plane intake for street), 750/850 Holley,2500 stall and 370/391 gear and a shift kit C6.AND make it a .030 w/460 crank. You don't necessarily NEED forged pistons for street driving,

Awesome right in line with what I was thinking over the weekend, must be on the right track. thank for the help

The 460 crank is a good idea, and I asked if you were going to increase cubic inches. The forged pistons are not needed, but down the road you may want more horsepower, and if you are going to bore the block, you might as well get it out the way now, as with the balance job. I agree with skipping the main stud girdle and hyd. roller also.

NorCal66Galaxie wrote:

admittedly a SBF proponent and EFI at that....that's why I said I was out of my zone.. Carbs and flat tappets leave me baffled. Why would someone want to change jets/adjust lifters all the time? Not lazy, just don't understand the benefits. Like I said earlier here to learn from experience...

With just a few well chosen performance parts, some well done modifications to the parts there and a relatively stock type engine, you can easily make around 450/500 horsepower which will run for 50,000 miles.

You would not need to adjust anything after you get it tuned the first time with such easily accomplished modifications.

A 460 with small dish replacement pistons, a few good cylinder head modifications and block machining , a well chosen hydraulic flat tappet camshaft and a good intake system and you'd be there.

NO big dollars... (unless what you are starting with, is trashed).

NorCal66Galaxie wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:On the Cheap? Use your heads w/mild porting good valve job w/bigger valves,good flat tappet w/roller rockers,performer (dual plane intake for street), 750/850 Holley,2500 stall and 370/391 gear and a shift kit C6.AND make it a .030 w/460 crank. You don't necessarily NEED forged pistons for street driving,

Awesome right in line with what I was thinking over the weekend, must be on the right track. thank for the help

What cam do you suggest I run with? I was thinking running a Weiand stealth intake and a Holley...thoughts? I had read that the Edlebrocks were hard to tune correctly...

[quote="NorCal66Galaxie"][quote="NorCal66Galaxie"]

bbf-falcon wrote:On the Cheap? Use your heads w/mild porting good valve job w/bigger valves,good flat tappet w/roller rockers,performer (dual plane intake for street), 750/850 Holley,2500 stall and 370/391 gear and a shift kit C6.AND make it a .030 w/460 crank. You don't necessarily NEED forged pistons for street driving,

Do I run a hyd. Flat tappet or a SFT?

Either one,I would prefer solid,but thats just me.

NorCal66Galaxie wrote:

NorCal66Galaxie wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:On the Cheap? Use your heads w/mild porting good valve job w/bigger valves,good flat tappet w/roller rockers,performer (dual plane intake for street), 750/850 Holley,2500 stall and 370/391 gear and a shift kit C6.AND make it a .030 w/460 crank. You don't necessarily NEED forged pistons for street driving,

Awesome right in line with what I was thinking over the weekend, must be on the right track. thank for the help

What cam do you suggest I run with? I was thinking running a Weiand stealth intake and a Holley...thoughts? I had read that the Edlebrocks were hard to tune correctly...

NOT a good choice in my opinion for an engine which will spend most of its time at Part Throttles and not WOT.  The area inside that intake manifold is cavernous and is slow to react for good throttle transient opperation although it will make good power at Wide Open Throttle.

I would suggest a Torquer II for the most power but, an "Air Gap' for best average power at all throttle openings.

As far as camshaft ... a good, well matched hydraulic will get the job done however, other things come into play needing compromises such as Power Brake vacuum needed and such. Something custom would be best.

rmcomprandy wrote:

NorCal66Galaxie wrote:

NorCal66Galaxie wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:On the Cheap? Use your heads w/mild porting good valve job w/bigger valves,good flat tappet w/roller rockers,performer (dual plane intake for street), 750/850 Holley,2500 stall and 370/391 gear and a shift kit C6.AND make it a .030 w/460 crank. You don't necessarily NEED forged pistons for street driving,

Awesome right in line with what I was thinking over the weekend, must be on the right track. thank for the help

What cam do you suggest I run with? I was thinking running a Weiand stealth intake and a Holley...thoughts? I had read that the Edlebrocks were hard to tune correctly...

NOT a good choice in my opinion for an engine which will spend most of its time at Part Throttles and not WOT.  The area inside that intake manifold is cavernous and is slow to react for good throttle transient opperation although it will make good power at Wide Open Throttle.

I would suggest a Torquer II for the most power but, an "Air Gap' for best average power at all throttle openings.

As far as camshaft ... a good, well matched hydraulic will get the job done however, other things come into play needing compromises such as Power Brake vacuum needed and such. Something custom would be best.

Ok I'll check into a cam then and see what intake suits it best..
How about Holley 850? Double pumper? Vacuum or mechanical?

Just call Randy,he is very knowledgeable in bbf combos. he will help you in the right direction.
The finest in custom engine building for all venues ...!
Selling those Parts & Supplies from companies I use ... 1 (586)909-1591 ... fax 1 (586)771-2930

CUSTOM ground camshafts
Carburetor modifications for specific applications
CNC porting

bbf-falcon wrote:Just call Randy,he is very knowledgeable in bbf combos. he will help you in the right direction.
The finest in custom engine building for all venues ...!
Selling those Parts & Supplies from companies I use ... 1 (586)909-1591 ... fax 1 (586)771-2930

CUSTOM ground camshafts
Carburetor modifications for specific applications
CNC porting

    

     

What does all of that mean?

bbf-falcon wrote:       

What does all of that mean?

Answered my next question and I'm really excited to start this build...this forum is really helpful. There's a wealth of info here. I'm looking forward to start posting pics of the build...I'm busy for the month of August the plan is to start immediately after.

Every time I read through the forums here I come up with more questions...

On my heads...C9VE-A's
What size intake/exhaust valves?
Planning on bronze valve guides & hardened seats
5 angle valve job
Milled (if needed)
Should I pay to have them ported or can I do this myself? I hear the exhaust floors are thin :/
Are there any secrets to making these heads flow better?

What I meant on the valve question was....what size should I increase to?