Potential HP of Kasse SCJA Heads

On a 501 to 533 cubic inch motor how far can they be pushed? Sure I'd like to go with a set of A-460 heads and will someday when I get a block that can fully use them. Until then when do the SCJ's hit the CFM wall? Has anyone got 800hp out of a set, NA?

Thanks

several on here have gotten right below the 900 mark but it will have to be a well thought out combo.....

They will go 400+ cfm

the Coug wrote:several on here have gotten right below the 900 mark but it will have to be a well thought out combo.....

Are we talking pretty much about a "light switch" in the way of engine performance?

IDT-572 wrote:They will go 400+ cfm

Where are the exhaust numbers on a set of heads like this? Are we talking over sized valves and some welding/epoxy work in the ports?
Or just larger valves and removing material in the right spots?

Thanks...

A normal port job with 2.25 intake and 1.76 exhaust will net you 400-240 with a ton of time and knowing where to get it with no epoxy or welding.

And as has been posted here numerous times, to not make the port as big as a cows rear to get those numbers................

501 CI . 12:1 motor here with a small roller cam and 2" headers with an 1150 QFDommy. Made 750hp on the dyno. Blake ported the heads and they flow @390 intake.

Again thanks for the information!

Nice to know that it can be done with some effort by a Pro. I was looking to push the OEM block as far as it can go within it's limits, then to step up to a A460 Motorsport block and a set of "A" heads to go with it.

These SCJ heads will serve me well for now, now that I know their potential. I used to build FE Fords a long time ago and am quite tickled with this 385 series motor!

Thanks for your sage wisdom...

XF-66 wrote:Again thanks for the information!

Nice to know that it can be done with some effort by a Pro. I was looking to push the OEM block as far as it can go within it's limits, then to step up to a A460 Motorsport block and a set of "A" heads to go with it.

These SCJ heads will serve me well for now, now that I know their potential. I used to build FE Fords a long time ago and am quite tickled with this 385 series motor!

Thanks for your sage wisdom...

I used to run FE's as well. Great engines...

A429 heads on my 534 making 825-ish HP N/A

D. Sea wrote:

XF-66 wrote:Again thanks for the information!

Nice to know that it can be done with some effort by a Pro. I was looking to push the OEM block as far as it can go within it's limits, then to step up to a A460 Motorsport block and a set of "A" heads to go with it.

These SCJ heads will serve me well for now, now that I know their potential. I used to build FE Fords a long time ago and am quite tickled with this 385 series motor!

Thanks for your sage wisdom...

I used to run FE's as well.  Great engines...

A429 heads on my 534 making 825-ish HP N/A

.
Loved them! They really made you work for their power potential though. I'm talking late 60's....

Dad used to truck pull with FE's and then I started helping when I was in high school. Eventually we retired the pulling trucks and I had a garage full of FE parts to go racing with. Many 428's and a few 427's. Don't have much FE stuff any more however I credit the FE for getting me into drag racing.

FE=f$%#&n' expensive!

BB94STANG wrote:FE=f$%#&n' expensive!

Ya got that right Brandon.

I been happy with mine so far on a 472'' with a flat cam with just a back cut on the intake valves hitting 9.96 all motor without the converter stalled for it yet. Car is light but still just basic stuff, my best 1/8 mile time during license runs was a 6.13 with a 125 shot of nos

XF-66 wrote:Again thanks for the information!

Nice to know that it can be done with some effort by a Pro. I was looking to push the OEM block as far as it can go within it's limits, then to step up to a A460 Motorsport block and a set of "A" heads to go with it.

These SCJ heads will serve me well for now, now that I know their potential. I used to build FE Fords a long time ago and am quite tickled with this 385 series motor!

Thanks for your sage wisdom...

Well you got your answer on the SCJ heads, but if you want an A head engine I don't understand not starting out with the A heads. They work just fine on a stock block and out of the box can make better than 800 hp. A heads require different intakes, headers, pistons, guide plates, and pushrods than a SCJ. If you make good choices and start with an A head most of all that would move over to an aftermarket block. Just seems you would be $$$ and HP ahead.

True unless you want to have more than one motor to play with , I know I do ,money providing that is I guess that's why I'm a parts horder

BB94STANG wrote:FE=f$%#&n' expensive!

Even more so today than years ago and very few folks hung a shingle out for business selling go fast parts for them back in those days!

466cj wrote:

Well you got your answer on the SCJ heads, but if you want an A head engine I don't understand not starting out with the A heads. They work just fine on a stock block and out of the box can make better than 800 hp. A heads require different intakes, headers, pistons, guide plates, and pushrods than a SCJ. If you make good choices and start with an A head most of all that would move over to an aftermarket block. Just seems you would be $$$ and HP ahead.

I have a 501 shortblock sitting in a bag ready to go when needed and the 533 built both for a quarter mile dragboat. The SCJ's will be fine for gaining some experience on the river water and at the track. Both of these blocks have forged internals and extra piston clearance for marine usage. Swapping out the motors is easy to do. I can always reuse the parts on other builds as time progresses.

I've also have a project 57 Chevy pickup truck for the wife, it's getting a BBF in it too. Too many Chevys in Fords today! (The payback is a Bitch, Huh?) Full coil over front and back, Four link rearend 9", C6 etc. It's going to be a stroker as well. I have two more bare blocks in the garage and one of them will bore 4.5 along with a scat 4.3 crank. This will be a mild build for the wife.

So I'm still learning about "A" and "C" headed combination. I was under the impression a 4.5 or greater bore allowed these larger heads to flow to their full potential. On water "Bigger is Better" is an understatement. What I don't need is anything marginal that might throw a rod or whatever through the oil pan and through the bottom of the hull at speed, when I step up my game. So the proper block and heads will only fill the bill for the liquid 1/4 mile. I'd think in a car one could get by with a OEM block, have a failure and coast in the car to the first turn off ramp. In a boat it's wood and plastic....baby!

nuclearcobra wrote:True unless you want to have more than one motor to play with , I know I do ,money providing that is I guess that's why I'm a parts horder

Hey! We think alike!    

Given all you are doing can understand. As for bore size an A head does fine on a 4.44" bore. 950 hp 557 is IMO the A head bang for the buck. The C head I'd want a 4.6" bore although have been good builds with less. You may want to make a 3/8" thick oil pan. Anything can let go, is just a matter of odds.

Ouch just those two words hurt my guts ( LET GO )