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528" Rod recomendations...or 552"-557"

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528" Rod recomendations...or 552"-557" Empty 528" Rod recomendations...or 552"-557"

Post  FalconEh April 4th 2015, 6:08 pm

Thinking of building a 528" street/strip NOS motor,looking for advise on the optimum rod for the application, aluminum or forged steel and length 6.605-6.8 this will be a pump gas NOS motor, with better fuel w/ NOS. This is the basic info:
4.42   B
4.30   S 4340 F
6.605 R (alum) ***Variable****
1.54   CH Diamond -36cc
78-82 CC
Heads, undetermined, under 10.5:1 comp, 3200 lbs, small tire, juiced, braked, 4:11/28 the key question is the rod type and length, pistons will have to change but I am looking for recommendations on the rod type and length with reasoning to why.

Thanks


Last edited by FalconEh on April 7th 2015, 11:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  schmitty April 4th 2015, 7:35 pm

6.8 Eagle or Scat. Cheap and tough
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Post  dfree383 April 4th 2015, 9:51 pm

What crank do you have?
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Post  FalconEh April 5th 2015, 10:41 pm

schmitty wrote:6.8 Eagle or Scat.  Cheap and tough

Thanks Schmitty, cheap and tough sounds good for this motor.

dfree383 wrote:What crank do you have?

In this motor now ford 3.85, want a very street drive-able, highly frosted friday night track car that is reliable with longevity, willing to sacrifice HP for drive-ability off the bottle. And need to run on a 2" header for now.
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Post  FalconEh April 7th 2015, 10:51 pm

FTW
10.310 D9 (4-bolted)
4.42-4.44 B
4.5 S 4340 (basic stuff Eagle-Scat)
6.8" R 4340 (basic stuff...)
72-75cc CC
.045GSKT
-38cc Diamond
1.245 CH
 
This needs to run on pump gas with a 2" header with a NOS cam profile/converter, since I haven't bought the crank yet maybe this is a better solution to the same problem, more motor than header, when the front gets done so do the headers, power increase...just a street-able small tire BBF thats likes to enjoy Mr Frosty!
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Post  dfree383 April 8th 2015, 7:13 am

A 4.5 or 4.3 forged scat would work fine IMO.

Callie's also offers higher quality forged ones too if you can afford to spend a little more, they are nicer and of higher quality
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Post  Dave De April 8th 2015, 6:28 pm

A small tire 557 should not need spray on the street. You may be able to use it when you hit high gear. I like the 6.8 rod to keep the pin higher in the cylinder.
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Post  FalconEh April 8th 2015, 9:11 pm

dfree383 wrote:A 4.5 or 4.3 forged scat would work fine IMO.

Thanks Dave, I think I will stick with the Scat on this one, with an aftermarket block the choice would likely be different but the difference will buy the rods.

Callie's also offers higher quality forged ones too if you can afford to spend a little more, they are nicer and of higher quality

Dave De wrote:A small tire 557 should not need spray on the street. You may be able to use it when you hit high gear. I like the 6.8 rod to keep the pin higher in the cylinder.

Thanks Dave, you guys have answered my "I am opting for the wrong rod length" question, as for the fog on the street... only for activation functionality testing on a known lonely safe road by myself endangering no one. The fog is for the track to wake up the inefficiency's created by the balance of dual purpose sacrifices. It allows me to run less on the street but still hang in there for some heads up Friday night racing.
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Post  gmsmkr April 8th 2015, 10:56 pm

Think about a 6.7 rod on a nitrous engine. The piston layout/ring spacing will be better by far. Not to mention the faster piston speed off of TDC will allow more cylinder filling. With the 4.500 stroke it will allow more Nitrous to be used
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Post  FalconEh April 8th 2015, 11:05 pm

gmsmkr wrote:Think about a 6.7 rod on a nitrous engine. The piston layout/ring spacing will be better by far. Not to mention the faster piston speed off of TDC will allow more cylinder filling. With the 4.500 stroke it will allow more Nitrous to be used

Why the original rod length posted was still stock length @ 6.605 scratch
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Post  gmsmkr April 8th 2015, 11:14 pm

FalconEh wrote:
 
This needs to run on pump gas with a 2" header with a NOS cam profile/converter, since I haven't bought the crank yet maybe this is a better solution to the same problem, more motor than header, when the front gets done so do the headers, power increase...just a street-able small tire BBF thats likes to enjoy Mr Frosty!


This is what I was referring too
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