DIY Headers

Ok - Since no one offered to sell me a set I am forced to build custom headers and wanted to reach out for advisement.

I have a 91 Fox body with a 460, AJE frontend, QuickTime 8010 Manual Bell housing with mechanical linkage, stock speedo cable, Hydro boost.

When I had the PG with Kooks 2 1/8 headers they hung to low and would rip the v-bands off the exhaust all the time. Didn't like the PG anyway so switched to a manual for the fun of it.

I have tried many off the shelf headers and they are sitting low or flat out will not clear my configuration. All have been returned except my original SS Kooks long tubes.

Have access to Mig and TIG, bought flanges, and box of bends. Now I'm looking at this mess a little overwhelmed.

I have tried PVC - melting ends and epoxying stub to flanges and trying to run 90, 45, and 22 degree bends.....Never seems to workout correctly. Taken apart and ends are going to be returned to Homeless Depot.

Next attempt is old pool hose mocked in with TIG wire for strength and then filled with spray foam - is this a crazy idea?

Trying to shave some development time here. I am very handy and not afraid of these custom projects but hate wasting loads time on failures.

Not sure what to do next.

Thanks in advance,

Joe

were are you located ?

Ft. Lauderdale FL.

I'd modify the Kooks to fit what you have...

MustangBBF wrote:Ft. Lauderdale FL.

https://www.facebook.com/DanNeumannRaceCarsLLC

or http://innovativeracecraft.com/Contact.html



both of these folks do great work !!!

jbozzelle wrote:I'd modify the Kooks to fit what you have...

This makes the most sense to me.

Jess

There is such a difference in routing between the two bell housings(JW PG and QT 8010) I am remiss to cut up a pair of $1200.00 460 SCJ headers.

I figured a $300 pile of parts is worth a shot in the dark to make a set. Delusions aside this is definitely not a project for the faint of heart as I am finding out.

Maybe I'll picture document my mistakes...errr progress hehehe.

At the very least everyone is helping me achieve the required 25 posts before you can post items to sell.

Thanks!

Joe

You are right when building header it is a pain sometimes trying to figure just where you need to cut tube to come out where you want it

My best advice if you're determined to build them yourself is to 'Begin with the end in mind.'

Place the collector where you want it to be for best tranny and ground clearance and build to it. I rarely build a header that all 4 tubes on one side are not independent of one another. This will give you a little more freedom as where to place the tubes as well. Also, I'd recommend buying an assortment of large and small radius J-bends.

TY - very good advice.

I picked up a dynatech header kit from speedwaymotors. It cost around $165 plus shipping, if I remember correctly. The kit even came with flanges. I wish I had better cutting tools while building them,but they turned out ok.

https://s316.photobucket.com/user/z7turbo/library/zephyr%20pics?sort=6&page=4

Above is the link to my build.

These mite help.
http://www.dragzine.com/news/new-products/icengineworks-releases-welding-clamp-set-custom-header-builds/

Always thought this looked like a worthshile challenge. anyone ever seen any online tutorials on this process. If not, might I solicit one of you talented fabricators to put your work on youtube

I am documenting my build. In the next week or two should be able to start posting pictures.

Great.... forward to it

Setting the expectation now: I am a shade tree mechanic. Stuff gets done but don't expect show quality. lol.

All of that is why we get $2000 for our mild steel headers with mufflers. And they are perfect in the end. We have a lot of experience that can not be shared not because we don't want to but because it just takes time to learn it.

we dont use any kind of mock up kits. we place the collector where we want it bolt the flanges on the heads and put a 6" or so piece of hose on the plugs to take up space so you don't make it hard to change plugs. then get after it.

^ agree..... Ive always put the flanges on and stuck the collector where it needed to be andgot after it.

I like to use a standup band saw to cut the tube and you should get a nice 10" or 12" disc sander to face off your tubes after cutting. That will square the faces up for an excellent fit. The better the fit, the better the weld and the better the finished product.

How would a piece of Flex tubing work to mock up a tube? would this work or no?

bbf-falcon wrote:How would a piece of Flex tubing work to mock up a tube? would this work or no?

There are any number of ways to setup a visual models such as using flex tube. The hard part is transferring it to tube length and angle of cut. I use short sections of 1/8 tig weld wire for distance and angle.
Check this out, If I did more sets of headers I might think about getting this setup.

http://www.jefflilly.com/fabrication/header-fabrication/

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/headerfabrication

bowsher21 wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:How would a piece of Flex tubing work to mock up a tube? would this work or no?

 There are any number of ways to setup a visual models such as using flex tube. The hard part is transferring it to tube length and angle of cut. I use short sections of 1/8 tig weld wire for distance and angle.
Check this out, If I did more sets of headers I might think about getting this setup.

http://www.jefflilly.com/fabrication/header-fabrication/

That is some pretty bad ass info right there.

All great ideas. Like to idea of the 6" pieces of hose to account for plug accessibility. Neat trick. Jeff. Lolly link is awesome and the stainless headers link too. MystangBbf. I still look forward to your effort. Will be nice to see something that isn't professional just so I know I'm not alone in this hobby. In the days of Internet some days I feel like I'm the dopiest untalented auto enthusiast in the nation. Seems like everyone can weld 20 gauge aluminum and make it look like a piece of art. Maybe it's just that those who can't do that don't post pics of their work