Identify Water Pump Markings - PH366 - Overheating problems.... 460

Getting too hot at idle but at cruise the engine stays cooler and at an "even" temp, tends to point toward a below par cooling fan capacity. As stated earlier, a pusher fan is not as efficient as a puller fan, this is due to the fan's assembly itself blocking some of the needed airflow. A "good" fan is designed to be installed as a puller OR a pusher, they really lose efficiency due to fan blade design(especially an "S" blade design) when a particular fan(puller or pusher) is installed "backwards" by just reversing the wiring polarity of the fan's motor. If the temp rises while at speed(but stays at an even temp at idle) it could indicate a radiator capacity or a radiator's internal blockage issue(without enough blockage to cause an idle temp issue-had this happen to me with rust). Good luck.

Hi aquartlow ,

Overheating occurs at idle if the car has been driven just sitting at idle from cold start appears to be fine the fans cut in and keep things under control. But the problem is when driving overheating begins and then stopping at lights just does not recover. It did not appear to be as bad before. But things had got worse (weather hotter now) even at driving now, so was the reason to replace the old rad and (pusher) fans to a new wide tube rad less cores , to allow more air flow, and higher cfm fans that sit now behind the rad in puller config a big improvement to the configuration but not resolve the issue.....

Cheers for response....

Fans a purpose puller fans....

What temp does the fan(s) come on? What t-stat temp are you using? On my application I use a 160 degree t-stat, but have one fan come on @ 180' and the 2nd come on @ 195', doing this keeps the t-stat open at all times when the fans are on/cycling instead of having a situation where the fans/temp sensors are fighting the t-stat(example: 180' T-stat and 180' fan turn-on temp).Having it done this way will keep the fan running continuously with little fan on-off cycle time, (depending on the fans circuitry) most fans cut off after there is a 10-15 degree reduction in coolant temps, but since the T-stat will start to close as temps reduce after 180' the engine will rarely get to the 165 or 170 degree range. What type/brand of puller fan did you install and how much of the radiator core is covered by said fan/shroud assembly? Just trying to help if possible.

If removing/elevating the hood doesn't work. Try removing the thermostat. Process of elimination . good luck.

My guess is that your pump isn't moving enough coolant at idle.

As stated earlier by Jeffgfg, make sure the plate is installed between timing cover and water pump. You can verify without having to remove water pump, the plate is over 1/16" and under 1/8" thick. If you look at the first pic in this thread you can see the gold plate between the WP and timing cover.
https://2img.net/h/i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll154/bbcoupe/545ci%20Ford%20big%20Block/P1060682_zps0ec17e4e.jpg

Without this plate you WILL lose cooling efficiency, flow capacity and gain cavitation(all are bad news). Good luck.

Found Overheating issue....I think..

Head Gasket Seepage - leak
Head Gasket incorrectly installed (water port should have been to rear) !!!!!


plus more images of water pump, if anyone can say this is fine to use?!

Looks fine and like any other water pump, but the big question is did it have a backing plate on it or was it just bolted to the timing cover????? Just an interesting note Boss 429 and early 429 CJ and SCJ's had a circular impeller in the water pump. It looks like your water pump pulley is smaller than normal this might be spinning it faster so that the water doesn't spent enough time in the radiator to lose enough heat to cool the engine. try a stock pump pulley. I hope you get this sorted out!!!

Hi,

Yes I did have the backing place, but was 2 ugly to post until it was cleaned up...

I was not able to find PH366S anywhere thou to work out what exactly is it? looking to go possibly electric ?

I went to the small pulley on the pump because I had to reduce the crank pulley also for clearance issues....and figured I should match the new pulley

Either way I am sure the issues was the head gaskets install...

I doubt it's "too fast", as your cooling issues are at idle.. RPM only goes up from there, and as you said you maintained the ratio.  Don't get so wrapped around the crankshaft about that number on the pump either.. it's a BBF water pump.. standard rotation.

Looks to me like the casting is broke on one of the bolt holes. IMO, better just to change it while you have it off.

aquartlow wrote:Looks to me like the casting is broke on one of the bolt holes. IMO, better just to change it while you have it off.

Look closer... blue denim

Dang, I must be blind in one eye and I can't see out the other! Totally missed seeing the folded cloth partially covering that hole. Sorry, my mistake.

Any thoughts on electric waterpumps?

I am looking to replace ALT and PS brackets as I made them myself a while ago and I can see CVR have one ?