Questions on Frank Merkl's C6 instructions

I have a couple dumb questions.

I was reviewing Frank's instructions on the other website and he says to use the old style piston with the check ball at 12 oclock. So, dumb question #1. I am assembling the tranny so I have the case oriented with the valve body hole up, so when you say 12 o'clock, is that check ball oriented toward the valve body or opposite?

Dumb question #2, I am rollererizing the tranny, if after assembling and installing the pump, the clearance is .010 or less, is there any plastic or metal shims that can be removed to gain more clearance?

And one more. I got a broader kit about a year ago and in his instructions he says to drill out a spring loaded ball in the pump. Do you do this? What is the purpose? (sorry just tryhing to learn..)

Thanks,
Alan

Ok .. #1 . The checkball goes towards the top of the case , away from the valvebody.

#2 If rollerising and less than .010: , then take a little extra out of one of the bearing pockets or a little  out of a couple . I juggle the measurements a little to get endfloat where i want so as to end up with a nice size #1 shim at the pump.
#3 Leave the checkball in place . One thing you MUST do though is make sure the ball is free and not rusted solid . You can plug the ends of the stator support and use air . If it is suspect or stuck , I have drilled the plug out , free it all up and tap a thread for a grub screw to go in to retain the spring and checkball.

The purpose is to allow increased oil flow to the cooler although not required . But I have had some later stator supports with no checkball installed so I assume they did with them like some late C4's and removed at factory

Thanks for the response Greg. Glad I asked as I was reviewing the C6 rebuild video I got a couple years ago from Bad Shoe productions and he clearly states to locate the old piston with the check ball toward the valve body.

Another question, What is the best method to remove the pump bushing?

https://www.google.com/search?q=bushing+cutter&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari#imgrc=zZE4ehgAMDPc2M%3A
This is what I use 90% of the time, sometimes followed by a slight clean up of any burr caused from the cutter. A driver used to install the bushing can also be used for removal if you have the right driver.

HorsinAround wrote:Thanks for the response Greg. Glad I asked as I was reviewing the C6 rebuild video I got a couple years ago from Bad Shoe productions and he clearly states to locate the old piston with the check ball toward the valve body.

Another question, What is the best method to remove the pump bushing?

The pump bushing I use a proper mandrel and an Arbour press . That is really the proper way so as to fit correctly.

Here is some text from Franks info i have saved that explains the reason .

The factory installed the piston with the check ball at the 6'oclock position ,this was to take the clunk out of(the driveline) firing the motor up and pulling it in reverse on high idle(as the oil would drain out of the low piston over night ) on perf builds put the check ball at 12 o'clock, must people don't care if their race car clunks the driveline when they put it in reverse

The higher stall in race cars also softens the clunk in reverse. It can be quite annoying in a daily driver stocker with the choke on high idle. Our old 71 400 felt like it was about to blow the U-joints out on cold mornings.