Balancing, order of operation's?

After obtaining the bob weight and setting up the weights on the crank, whats next. I had my assembly balance at a local shop (Baker Eng.) the Lunati crank did not need any metal added but was drilled as expected. I also have spots ground off the new Scat flywheel and the new balancer. Does the shop spin the crank and bobs, fix any imbalance issues, then bolt on the flywheel and balance back to zero and then the balancer?

Just wanting to know if I ever upgrade the balancer or change a damaged flywheel do I need to have it zero or does it need to match what came off?

PS Lunati forged crank, SCAT I beam rods and Icon pistons did not need any metal added, took one deep hole in each the front and rear.

paperman wrote:After obtaining the bob weight and setting up the weights on the crank, whats next.  I had my assembly balance at a local shop (Baker Eng.) the Lunati crank did not need any metal added but was drilled as expected.  I also have spots ground off the new Scat flywheel and the new balancer.  Does the shop spin the crank and bobs, fix any imbalance issues, then bolt on the flywheel and balance back to zero and then the balancer?  

Just wanting to know if I ever upgrade the balancer or change a damaged flywheel do I need to have it zero or does it need to match what came off?  

PS Lunati forged crank, SCAT I beam rods and Icon pistons did not need any metal added, took one deep hole in each the front and rear.  

Ask the people who balanced it.  No one else can answer that question without doing a re-balance.

Some balance places modify the flexplate or damper to get it balanced externally.  Some will only use factory O.E.M. external balance flexplate or dampers only, weighted as they are.

In my opinion, all corrections should be made on the crankshaft whether it is to be an internal OR external assembly.

If INTERNALLY BALANCED,
then AFTER any corrections are made to the crankshaft, the damper and flexplate can be "ZEROED".

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Thanks I plan to call them. I had asked the day I picked it up for a balance sheet with the info. but all the labor had left for the day and it was not with the invoice. Im not holding my breath for an answer as a friend (as a member here) has been waiting for a dyno report for a month. Baker may be great at building engine's but the paper side of the shop needs some help. I too would expect that the crank be balance naked and then each item addressed as it is assembled.

Ideally the balancer and flywheel or flex plate are simply verified. And then left unmodified. That way replacement parts are out of box useable. If engine is internal or external balance. All balance correction should have been done on the crank. Ideally... Have seen places that ground and drilled on flywheel balance mass..... in small block world mostly 302 cranks did not have a bunch of balance mass to play with in stock form.

best bet is zero balance balancer and flexplate or flywheel, and correct the crank. Then interchange of external parts is no headache.

That was my thought as well and thought about that when my Scat SFI neutral flywheel showed up with no balancing holes or weight.

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JBR-3 wrote:Kim,
Your point is a good one, I'm just not sure I trust out-of-the-box replacement flywheels / flexplates
to be spot on for XXX engine application.
Especially clutch assemblies, do manufacturers sell correctly balanced assemblies for the application ?
Same question applies for torque converters, although I've never heard of convertor balance being an issue,
but it could !

I am guessing that you have not dealt with any O.E.M. Mopar torque converters.

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