C4

Lost all forward gears. Looking to rebuild c4. I want the best I don't know what's in there yet but it was rated to handle 950hp.
It will see a tick more then that as it was 620na with a 200 shot and will get heads ported, switch to big shot plate for better flow, better rings to add more spray then spray as much as I possibly can. I ran 9.9.with bad 1.6 60 foot so going to cage for 8.50 and that's new goal

Imo sell the c4 and get a c6 or even better a powerglide.

Idk I made over 300 passes on this c4.... and 5-6 thousand street miles.

You will find a hp level it will start hating life i promise

Maybe I just got lucky or was right ato the edge the whole time. I see some 12-1400 hp glides pop up for 2400 or so maybe I should just go that route. I really wanted to stay ford and the c4 is so light that bbf is heavy and any savings helps

richter69 wrote:Imo sell the c4 and get a c6 or even better a powerglide.

The glide....with a good sfi case and good internals. At the power level you suggest, stock pieces will become even more pieces.

All depends on wallet and intended use of said vehicle .
I myself like staying all Ford , but out of all my stubbornness and years of building transmissions . I have found that as good as a c4 is it is no match for 900 hp big block Ford !

Power glide is the cheapest option for what you pay and low maintenance.

Want to stay all Ford run a c6 with a Frank Merkl Vb and follow his specs on the build.

Rear gear and torque converter stall speed may have to be changed around some for the power glide to,suit your needs and run the number you want.

If you want to stay with the c4 here are a few tips : I use the thicker clutches and steels in the clutch packs and make sure you set the clutch pack clearance and band adjustments correct keep it clean , don't have a lot of end play , use Teflon pump sealing rings ,check Vb psi after build  . Stack style trans cooler with a temp sensor and fan helps , and this is true with any transmission. Deep transmission pan 6an cooler lines no larger than 6an it will hurt the flow and cause transmission to heat up instead of cooling it.
Make sure when you test it that it doesn't have the slightest bit of 3rd gear flar or it will not last long.
Good luck

Thank you for the advice.
I have 6an lines with a cooler that has its own fan. I also am trying to contact Paul Adomaitis. He is the king of c4 (I have been told) to see if he thinks I can make it work

Is there a kit you'd recommend that would have the correct clutches?

Anyone ?

6jeff6 wrote:Is there a kit you'd recommend that would have the correct clutches?

I don't buy kits for performance build transmissions. I have certian pieces that I get from different parts suppliers and kinda put together my own kit.

I would see what is in your transmission first.

If you could run 5 on 5 meaning 5 clutches in direct and forward clutch drums and use the thicker clutches and steels . .078 thick . Use waffle style in direct clutch pack and smooth in forward.
Kevlar lined low reverse and intermediate band. Raybestos stage I are good clutches . Whatever it take transmission parts ,PTC, and Broader performance are some of the places I get my parts from.

I hope this helps!

Thank you that helps a ton.. just wanting a direction

6jeff6 wrote:Thank you that helps a ton.. just wanting a direction

http://www.racingjunk.com/Door-Cars/182781513/X275-Grudge-1997-Mustang-Turnkey-BBF-Nitrous-car.html

Here you go, LoL.

supervel45 wrote:

6jeff6 wrote:Thank you that helps a ton.. just wanting a direction

http://www.racingjunk.com/Door-Cars/182781513/X275-Grudge-1997-Mustang-Turnkey-BBF-Nitrous-car.html

Here you go, LoL.

I know that car

Is it really worth 55?

My c4 has broken forward clutch hub.

Well I have to choose between saving for glide or pulling trigger on 6 roller and complete rebuild kit which will cost me around 700$ all together. I'm leaning toward the c4 because I'm set up for it then I have money for cage n all that safety stuff

6jeff6 wrote:Well I have to choose between saving for glide or pulling trigger on 6 roller and complete rebuild kit which will cost me around 700$ all together. I'm leaning toward the c4 because I'm set up for it then I have money for cage n all that safety stuff

I HAVE C4 PARTS !!!!!!  Let me know what you need . send me pics of what is broken.

The forward clutch hub is broke. So with calling performance automatic they recommended switching to 6 roller to reduce stress and with their rebuild kit it's good to a 1,000hp

6jeff6 wrote:The forward clutch hub is broke. So with calling performance automatic they recommended switching to 6 roller to reduce stress and with their rebuild kit it's good to a 1,000hp

keep in mind 1000 hp small block and 1000 hp big block are two different animals. small block makes less torque than the big block makes at the same hp.

Check here http://www.broaderperformance.com/ or here http://www.lyonsperformance.com

Another good place to get parts from http://tcsproducts.com/media/1/TCS_Performance_Products_catalog_2015_w-links.pdf

I called broader performance and he suggested I go glide or call performance automatic and see what they could do for a c4.
You are so right on bbf compared to sbf. I won't up the power and see what I can do to make it faster how it is..

What et and mph are you running ? what is the weight of your mustang ? If you don't want everyone to know just pm me that info.

Before spray I could 1.3 60 foot ran a 10.4 n/a
Added spray traction and trans slip slowed it down to 1.6 60 foot with running 10.0-10.1 @ 136-140. Never ever got full pass spraying all 3 gears. Up the shot to about 250 (small plate so I doubt it flowed it) and spun in first let off grabbed 2nd nailed it and nothing there.

I did run a 9.9xx once though

Haven't weighed car but previous owner claimed 3400lbs in paperwork