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Weiand Stealth Intakes

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Post  Alpine2013 June 21st 2017, 10:59 am

Has anyone ever compared the Weiand Stealth 8012 vs 8021 ?

Are the runners of the 2 manifolds the same  or are the runners of the 8021 larger ?

I know that the runner where it meets the head on the 8021 is larger to match the CJ heads, but are the runners larger all the way back to the plenum ?

Thank you for sharing your Wisdom and Experience
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Post  dfree383 June 21st 2017, 11:10 am

The 12 is for DOVE head ports the 21 is bigger for CJ size ports, other than the flanges the are the same
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Post  rmcomprandy June 21st 2017, 11:39 am

In my opinion ... there is NEVER any reason to buy a new 8012 manifold.
It won't fit a CJ head yet the CJ manifold will fit with the smaller D0VE size ports and not lose any power; even with the port mismatch.

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Post  Alpine2013 June 21st 2017, 3:07 pm

Randy, that's real  interesting. that makes me wonder why they made 2 intakes then,  instead of just one.

Just Commenting :

Best Price on FleaBay  New 8012 - $223.95
                        FleaBay New  8021 - $258.95

$35.00 more for the privilege of CJ ports
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Post  DanE June 21st 2017, 3:56 pm

Alpine2013 wrote:Randy, that's real  interesting. that makes me wonder why they made 2 intakes then,  instead of just one.

Just Commenting :

Best Price on FleaBay  New 8012 - $223.95
                        FleaBay New  8021 - $258.95

$35.00 more for the privilege of CJ ports



What engine combination are thinking of putting this manifold on and for what vehicle and what vehicle usage?

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Post  rmcomprandy June 21st 2017, 8:52 pm

Alpine2013 wrote:Randy, that's real  interesting. that makes me wonder why they made 2 intakes then,  instead of just one.

Just Commenting :

Best Price on FleaBay  New 8012 - $223.95
                        FleaBay New  8021 - $258.95

$35.00 more for the privilege of CJ ports

They re-flanged the CJ intake for those unaware people who read to many magazines or think the ports just need to match. Exclamation

Buy whatever you want ... other than a few bucks there is no difference in performance. Now that 8012 won't cover Cobra Jet ports at a later time and is more difficult to sell. Wink

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Post  Alpine2013 June 21st 2017, 9:39 pm

This is my planned project, still gathering and researching parts:

80 over 460 - 477 CU,
Diamond Flat Tops w/1 valve relief
AFR 295 Heads - 85cc should put me at 10 1/2 - 11 to 1 compression
Comp Cams - Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Flat tappet - XE284H
0.584/0.588 lift
Duration @ 50 240/246
Rpm Range 2300 to 6500
Rhoads Lifters ( these will drop the RPM range further down )
Comp Cams Ultra Pro Rockers 1.73
2' - 3 1/2 headers into 4" dual exhaust ( nickel plated 4" cherry bombs ) with turn downs out the back.

I have a Port-o-sonic and a Holley 950 cfm 3 barrel ( the diamonds pistons and early 429 short block & a 1977 460 complete engine ) rear sump pan, misc other parts.

Shooting for 600 HP
500 to 550 TQ

Street driven 99.9%
A car to have fun with slamming gears.

Going into an old school Hot Rod ( not Street Rod )
no power steering, AC, etc ( dead weight to me )

1941 Chevy Business  Coupe Steel Body w/ 1940 ford Front End ( fenders, deluxe grill & headlights )
Body has been chopped, channeled, shortened along with the frame  14 1/2 inches ( eliminated the rear 1/4 windows )
Mustang II front suspension, 9" rear moved forward, reworked the rear fender wells
Aluminum floor/ firewall. Poly buckets, etc.
Big and Little tires.

I am looking at 3,500 lbs or less

Doug Nash 5 speed with maybe 3.25 gears in the 9" (depending on rear tire diameter )

OK, so what do you guys think ?

Suggestions ?
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Post  supervel45 June 21st 2017, 10:06 pm

http://www.jegs.com/i/AFR-Airflow-Research/033/4992/10002/-1

If this is the right one, it's a 100 bucks more, just a thought. If you like low oil pressure at idle on a hot engine and noise the Rhoads are the ticket. 4" exhaust, Hmm there goes some low end torque I bet.

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Post  supervel45 June 21st 2017, 10:11 pm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOLLEY-3BBL-AND-4BBL-CARBURETOR-SPACER-HEAT-SHIELD-P-N-17-15/332265274432?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

This may help you with the three barrel on some intakes.

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Post  Alpine2013 June 22nd 2017, 7:15 am

Thanks, I was not aware of a special spacer for 3 barrels ( what will they think of next, LOL ) i was thinking of an open spacer or maybe fabbing one out a piece of phenolic.

The carb has been sitting on a shelf ( almost new, acquired it for a song & a dance ) for 37+ years and I am finally building something I can use it on.
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Post  supervel45 June 22nd 2017, 7:24 am

I look at a lot of old Holley stuff and that is the first one I've seen also. As long as you get the back barrels to clear you should be good. Be careful with the vacuum pod they are pricey too.

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Post  supervel45 June 22nd 2017, 7:35 am

What is the first gear ratio in your Doug Nash? Sounds like a cool ride by the way.

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Post  Alpine2013 June 22nd 2017, 10:32 am

Ratios are     1st 3.27,     2nd 2.14,   3rd 1.57,   4th 1.23,    5th 1:1  I believe there is a 2.95 available for first. I might swap to that. 3.27 is probably too much 1st gear for a big block, especially for the street with limited traction.

I build cars that are creative and out of the ordinary. I named the car " Tom's Revenge ". Far too many Ford cars with a Chevy motor so I decided to do the reverse.

I am a cheap skate big time. Always wanted a 40 Ford, loved the look, but so does everyone else. Never could afford to buy one. Neighborhood guy bought the car, had it at a buddies house, got turned into zoning for junk car in the yard, so it had to go. He went around trying to find someone to buy it for $700 ( what he payed for it, this was in the early 1980's ) It had a pair of extra doors, hood, deck lid, etc, no motor or trans, it had been a street rod, 12 bolt chevy rear. He could not find a buyer. I didn't particularly like the looks of it and I am a Ford guy, so I thought What the hell, I'll offer $175.( I really didn't want it ). Well with just a couple of days left ( he had 30 days or the home owner would have it haled away to the junk yard ) and he  said " its yours ".  hmmm....

Nice steel body, minimal rust, original paint. " O boy, Now what do I do ? "

( Que in maniacal laughter ) buhahahah
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Post  supervel45 June 22nd 2017, 10:41 am

Hard to say on the gears, depends what you want to do I guess. The 3.27 and a 3.25 in the rear come to 10.62 in first. A C6 would be about 8/1 in first for comparison. A 2.75 out back with the 3.27 would make for a nice freeway cruiser and still have a pretty stout take-off. Check your PM's I sent a little 3Bbl. info you might like.

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Post  Alpine2013 June 22nd 2017, 2:56 pm

Running the gears thru a calculator ( once upon time I could do this in head, kinda, long, long, ago in a place far, far away ) 2.95 1st might work with the 3.25. Run alot of cam and big exhaust (4" ), and maybe an aluminum flywheel,  kill bottom end torque and I might have enough traction for street tires. I think depending on tire size, this would top out in 1st gear at about 40 - 45 mph.  I used 3.25 because that's what I have siting on the shelf. I have other 9" jackpots, but they are all numerically higher. I may put this together and then have to hunt for 3.00 or 2.79's

Tom
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Post  supervel45 June 22nd 2017, 10:44 pm

Or put taller tires. From the way you described the ride I was envisioning big soft compound Mickey's tubbed in with the 4" tail pipes coming out the back. That 3.25 3.27 first is about the same as a 4.30 with a C6 in low. Building a big block/manual transmission ride like this and trying to set it up to hook with regular street tires seems kind of counter productive to me.

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Post  Alpine2013 June 23rd 2017, 10:02 am

For the front, I have a set of A/78/15's mounted on 3 1/2" x 15" Ansen Slots. For the rear I have a set of 12" x 15 " deep slots. The only tires I sitting around as of now are a set of L/60/ 15's a and a set 295/ 50/15's. I can squeeze the L 60's in the wheel well, but after looking at it again recently, the car really should be tubed.
   Great minds think alike ( lol ), supervel45 " From the way you described the ride I was envisioning big soft compound Mickey's tubbed in with the 4" tail pipes coming out the back ". That's how I was envisioning it also.

I passed ( I should kick myself ) on a set of 16" x 31" x 15" new street Hoosiers for $200 asking price on Friday at Ford Carlisle. I got to talking to some old friends and did not get the chance to go back for them on Friday, Saturday morning they were gone, I saw the same tires on the back of truck of a different seller near the end of the day, now for $400. . . Surprise ! . . . Not...

An alternative to tubbing might be cutting and widening the rear fenders adding 2 - 4 ". I was at the Drag Strip a week ago and saw a couple of Willy's running. To my eye they looked like they had fatter rear fenders  than my 41'. Unfortunately it probably would take adding about 6" in to make it work for tire size and visually it might look odd, . . . too much. When I find time, I might work up a computer simulation and see what it looks like.

At this point, best to find the tires at the right price and go from there. 15" tires are not that common any more, 14' even less.
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Post  supervel45 June 23rd 2017, 10:40 am

Alpine2013 wrote:Running the gears thru a calculator ( once upon time I could do this in head, kinda, long, long, ago in a place far, far away ) 2.95 1st might work with the 3.25. Run alot of cam and big exhaust (4" ), and maybe an aluminum flywheel,  kill bottom end torque and I might have enough traction for street tires. I think depending on tire size, this would top out in 1st gear at about 40 - 45 mph.  I used 3.25 because that's what I have siting on the shelf. I have other 9" jackpots, but they are all numerically higher. I may put this together and then have to hunt for 3.00 or 2.79's

Tom

27" (L-60)Tire 3.25 Rear 3.27 First Gear 6,000 RPM=45MPH  

With the 2.95 First Gear at 6,000RPM it comes to 50MPH

MPH= TH X RPM Divided by GR and then divided by 336

Should have snagged those Hoosiers.

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