4u 429 crank and cj rod strength

Randy, I am definitely not going to argue the subject. You are probably right. It did appear at the time that the that the webs on the flush rail block had more meat on sides than my block with the lower pan rails. They were sitting about 20 feet apart though so I could be mistaken. I will see if he still has the other one next time I go over there. I will add that I was assuming the thicker block was an earlier version. I did not bother rolling it out of the pile to look at the date code.

stanger68 wrote:Randy, I am definitely not going to argue the subject. You are probably right. It did appear at the time that the that the webs on the flush rail block had more meat on sides than my block with the lower pan rails. They were sitting about 20 feet apart though so I could be mistaken. I will see if he still has the other one next time I go over there.  I will add that I was assuming the thicker block was an earlier version. I did not bother rolling it out of the pile to look at the date code.

Believe whatever you want to believe; it really does not matter to me ... a debate about any of this is senseless.

rmcomprandy wrote:

stanger68 wrote:Randy, I am definitely not going to argue the subject. You are probably right. It did appear at the time that the that the webs on the flush rail block had more meat on sides than my block with the lower pan rails. They were sitting about 20 feet apart though so I could be mistaken. I will see if he still has the other one next time I go over there.  I will add that I was assuming the thicker block was an earlier version. I did not bother rolling it out of the pile to look at the date code.

Believe whatever you want to believe; it really does not matter to me ... a debate about any of this is senseless.

I agree it really doesn't matter for this discussion.

I was just pointing out that all D1VE blocks are not the same. In case the OP didn't already know because I found out the hard way. And in my opinion the block with the flush pan rails would be preferable if one were planning to add splayed 4 bolt caps. The other block may or may not have enough material to machine proper register. If he was planning to use splayed caps on the latter block he may want to look at other options like parallel bolt caps with dowels to locate or either adding material for a register. Have a good day.

stanger68 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

stanger68 wrote:Randy, I am definitely not going to argue the subject. You are probably right. It did appear at the time that the that the webs on the flush rail block had more meat on sides than my block with the lower pan rails. They were sitting about 20 feet apart though so I could be mistaken. I will see if he still has the other one next time I go over there.  I will add that I was assuming the thicker block was an earlier version. I did not bother rolling it out of the pile to look at the date code.

Believe whatever you want to believe; it really does not matter to me ... a debate about any of this is senseless.

I agree it really doesn't matter for this discussion.

I was just pointing out that all D1VE  blocks are not the same. In case the OP didn't already know because I found out the hard way. And in my opinion the block with the flush pan rails would be preferable if one were planning to add splayed 4 bolt caps. The other block may or may not have enough material to machine proper register. If he was planning to use splayed caps on the latter block he may want to look at other options like parallel bolt caps with dowels to locate or either adding material for a register.  Have a good day.

Another thing to watch for is that some later D9TE blocks have a recess at the rear main seal area for a "slinger" on the crankshaft and some don't have it.
Early and later blocks have 3 slightly differing deck heights, also.

Thanks Paul and Randy for the bolt lesson. This was splayed about ten yrs ago before much was wrote about letting the caps move and take some stress off the webbing and I believe cause Metal fatigue. Cast Iron Doesn't seem to like to flex and the thinnest area would be the bolt holes. Tiny crack is all it takes before crank comes out later. Main caps slight movement could be compared to a Dampener on a crank. It absorbs the flex on crank best it can to keep crank from cracking. I will keep eye open for the stock bolts with studs, will need 5 for Windage tray and pickup. This ideal seems to work on high rpm 351w stock 2 bolt blocks as well. I will have to check the bores again with bolts just to be safe. Align hone is cheap. Still a long way off. Thanks..,ED