nhra approved evans waterless coolant any users ?

i know its not cheap but was wondering if anyone uses it and if they have had good luck with it .
biggest thing that has me interested is that its good to 40 below an living in the north i wouldnt have to drain it out come winter time as i would with water


if i recall i read it build no pressure

i wasnt sure if anyone runs it and what they thought , finally going to run the fairmont next month ! and when you need coolant its close to a go

Are you talking about running it with straight Evans Coolant, or mixed with water??

Straight , I think you have to run it straight and not with water.

Not sure with aluminum heads how the stuff is , I know it raises the boiling point

5pointslow wrote:Straight , I think you have to run it straight and not   with water.

Not sure with aluminum heads how the stuff is , I know it raises the boiling point

You are correct, you can not mix water with Evan Waterless coolant. If fact you have to make absolutely certain your cooling system is totally void of any water. I haven't fired it up yet but I do have it in the freshwater side of the new engine for my boat. And make sure you add the stickers that come with it that say do not add water. If it's a totally new build and system and never has had water in it, you're good to go. If it has had water in it, it is recommended to flush clean dry air through it, then use their Prep Fluid to help remove any remaining water. Plus it eliminates corrosion and not harm aluminum.

I tired it in my blown 473, no water in the system with a Edelbrock water pump and a copper brass 4 core radiator and previously with water/antifreeze the engine ran in the 180-200 degree range, with the Evan's it ran in the 210-230 range which Evans said was normal, the thicker coolant doesn't boil over or get hot spots in the heads. Now here's the things to ponder, and the reason I went away from it on my 521 build is yes it does build pressure although you can run a lighter cap you will need a good size overflow bottle, and all other components in the engine will have to be capable of withstanding the additional heat, gaskets, hoses, water pump shaft seal. When I did my rebuild up to the 521 upon inspecting my Edelbrock water pump the shaft seal was damaged, not yet leaking but close so I sent it back to Edelbrock for a rebuild. It cost nearly $40/gallon then, I think it's slightly less now but you must keep extra around in case you need to top off as you ruin it if water is added. I didn't like seeing my temp gauge so high, I never experienced detonation but was always worried. My application was supercharged so I generate more heat than most so this is just my experience, others may have had a different experience.