Flexplate/pinion problem

I have a 164 teeth PWR flexplate and a powermaster ultra torque and already changed the starter pinion 4 times in two days.
It seems that the pinion is too far from the center of the flexplate but, in this type of starters how can you bring closer the pinion to the flexplate?
When the motor was bought we didnt have this problem, but since we changed the flexplate the problems began.
The engine is a 559 bbf 800hp 14.6:1

I have the same flexplate and starter, we have no problem. Did have to shim the starter gear though. If u bought starter new the install instructions show u how to shim properly. U have to order shim from power master. FYI cory

frankcons87 wrote:I have a 164 teeth PWR flexplate and a powermaster ultra torque and already changed the starter pinion 4 times in two days.
It seems that the pinion is too far from the center of the flexplate but, in this type of starters how can you bring closer the pinion to the flexplate?
When the motor was bought we didnt have this problem, but since we changed the flexplate the problems began.
The engine is a 559 bbf 800hp 14.6:1

I don't know about the Powermaster starter you have but, the FORD 460 mini-starter here has 10 teeth on the bendix gear; not only 9.  
I think this one was made by Visteon.

Slot the holes on the starter to move it in closer.

If all else fails, Meziere makes a starter with a radially adjustable bendix. Spendy though.

Like Randy said.....flex plate starter uses a 10 tooth drive. You have the wrong part.

Lem Evans wrote:Like Randy said.....flex plate starter uses a 10 tooth drive. You have the wrong part.

Must be 10 or at least 10 teeth? I saw a different powermaster with 11 and the visteon (like Randy said) with 12.
I`m using the powermaster ultra torque(part# 9405) and it comes with 9 teeth.

The distance between the pinion and the center of the flexplate is ok?

Here are photos of two different pinions and the flexplate, only used three times each pinion.

BBFTorino wrote:Slot the holes on the starter to move it in closer.

You mean make the holes bigger? When the pinion start moving the flexplate the base/adapter is not going to move?

BBFTorino wrote:Slot the holes on the starter to move it in closer.

LOL

I'm using this same starter with 9 teeth and it works great. I use JW flexplate and JW bellhousing.
When I was having problems it was because I wasn't using a midplate with the starter locating ring hole.

i have had the same problem in the past i welded up the bottom hole moved the starter motor over to it meshed right and re-drilled the hole...never missed a beat since...

Do you have the plate that goes between the block and trans?

norm wrote:Do you have the plate that goes between the block and trans?

yes, I have the engine plate between the starter and the trans.

frankcons87 wrote:

BBFTorino wrote:Slot the holes on the starter to move it in closer.

You mean make the holes bigger? When the pinion start moving the flexplate the base/adapter is not going to move?

No need to make them bigger, just elongate them enough to mesh the two gears together.

BBFTorino wrote:

frankcons87 wrote:

BBFTorino wrote:Slot the holes on the starter to move it in closer.

You mean make the holes bigger? When the pinion start moving the flexplate the base/adapter is not going to move?

No need to make them bigger, just elongate them enough to mesh the two gears together.

AND then ... what do you do about the large hole in the block plate which is there specifically to locate that starter ...?

Seems to me you have a problem with the flexplate and I would buy a different brand. Is the brand you bought a PRW not PWR like in the first post? It seems to me that elongating holes is about as back asswards fix as you can get when the holes are not the problem, especially if it worked fine before changing the flexplate.

What Jason said...….mine has 164 teeth and is 14 1/4 inch dia.

SBF starter has 9 teeth. I suspect that's what you may have.

Some of the people that use cheap starter motors will put a 9 tooth on to give it the leverage to turn the flywheel. I think my Meziere has 11 teeth, but they make a real 3hp with 3:1 gear reduction. Plus I have an eccentric in the nose for perfect alignment.

Powermaster 9405 is a big block starter, BUT only has 9 teeth.
Not sure if this is a Ford starter, but part number SFD-0030K does have 10 teeth. Lem, can you give us a cost for this starter. may not cost enough for Curt though...…………
My cheap old 9405 is over ten years old and working fine.

Since Ford Racing quit selling the Visteon starters;
Whenever I get a starter for a customer with a 385 engine, I just get the Summit brand #820048 for less than $200.00.

I get that starter mainly because it always works and has a rotating head which can be indexed to 18 different locations to clear most every header imaginable. They have a more powerful one with a -M at the end of that part number having the same dimensions but, I have never needed it.

Curt wrote: Plus I have an eccentric in the nose for perfect alignment.

What is this?

Edit: I found it.

https://www.meziere.com/Products/Starters/Completes-and-Kits/Ford/True-Start-for-Ford-Eccentric-Mount.aspx

Bill Heard wrote: Lem, can you give us a cost for this starter. may not cost enough for Curt though...…………

Touché, but as Lem says, I have more in my valve train than most have in their shortblock. He's never mentioned my starter.

I believe in buy once, cry once. If you've got a cheap ass starter that eats flywheels and pinions, it only takes a couple to pay for a nice starter.

You guys are above my experience level. I always used the Ford truck starter from the 90's....has 10 teeth.

Always worked with stock, JW wheel, Scat or TCI flex plates.