Rebuild kit question

I’m looking at rebuild kits and I’m seeing one for a 67-76 and then another for 77-96. I’m pretty sure mine in the 67-76 but does anyone know the difference in them?

Early C6 has screw in modulator, late has push in modulator. Good luck!

^ Yes. And Lip Seals vs. Flat Seals. Most (Maybe All) of the Kits Have Come With Both Seal Types.  Also The Valve Body's Changed on the Oil Pressure Regulator (Plate Type  Early) and Rooster Comb Detent (Very Early). Also most Late Models did not have many Clutchs and Steels. 1966-1971 or2 Had Input Shafts with the Same Spline Count, (That Could be Installed Backwards).

As for as the Kits I have always gotten the Early ones, and can't recall having a Late one to ever compare, so I Can't give you and Exact Answer.

I would check with one of the Big Wholesalers or Builders.

I won't say "Good Luck" Like the Previous Poster Because

Be Careful, (Taking it in and Out) I can barely move my fingers from the Convertor Change R&R, Ouch.

^I don't Ever Recall One That was That Bad and Such a Mayor Pain in the Ass, (It was Very High off The Ground Though).

Be Extremely Meticulous and Double Triple Check Everything and May Good Fortune be With You.

If You Have Questions Never Hesitate to Ask, or Research, Before Proceeding is a Good Policy I Have Found.

supervel45 wrote:^ Yes. And Lip Seals vs. Flat Seals. Most (Maybe All) of the Kits Have Come With Both Seal Types.  Also The Valve Body's Changed on the Oil Pressure Regulator (Plate Type  Early) and Rooster Comb Detent (Very Early). Also most Late Models did not have many Clutchs and Steels. 1966-1971 or2 Had Input Shafts with the Same Spline Count, (That Could be Installed Backwards).

As for as the Kits I have always gotten the Early ones, and can't recall having a Late one to ever compare, so I Can't give you and Exact Answer.

I would check with one of the Big Wholesalers or Builders.

I won't say "Good Luck" Like the Previous Poster Because

Be Careful, (Taking it in and Out) I can barely move my fingers from the Convertor Change R&R, Ouch.

^I don't Ever Recall One That was That Bad and Such a Mayor Pain in the Ass, (It was Very High off The Ground Though).

Be Extremely Meticulous and Double Triple Check Everything and May Good Fortune be With You.

If You Have Questions Never Hesitate to Ask, or Research, Before Proceeding is a Good Policy I Have Found.  

The worst part of this whole thing is I tore it apart 10+years ago. I have another 4x4 c6 that I tore down last winter but the first one should have never been touched. The red clutches look like they weren’t even broken in yet.

The early c-6s had thin forward clutches 0.62 as opposed to later 0.76-0.78 .All kits have both lip and square forward clutch seals .Doug in Ga.

curiousgeorge wrote:

supervel45 wrote:^ Yes. And Lip Seals vs. Flat Seals. Most (Maybe All) of the Kits Have Come With Both Seal Types.  Also The Valve Body's Changed on the Oil Pressure Regulator (Plate Type  Early) and Rooster Comb Detent (Very Early). Also most Late Models did not have many Clutchs and Steels. 1966-1971 or2 Had Input Shafts with the Same Spline Count, (That Could be Installed Backwards).

As for as the Kits I have always gotten the Early ones, and can't recall having a Late one to ever compare, so I Can't give you and Exact Answer.

I would check with one of the Big Wholesalers or Builders.

I won't say "Good Luck" Like the Previous Poster Because

Be Careful, (Taking it in and Out) I can barely move my fingers from the Convertor Change R&R, Ouch.

^I don't Ever Recall One That was That Bad and Such a Mayor Pain in the Ass, (It was Very High off The Ground Though).

Be Extremely Meticulous and Double Triple Check Everything and May Good Fortune be With You.

If You Have Questions Never Hesitate to Ask, or Research, Before Proceeding is a Good Policy I Have Found.  

The worst part of this whole thing is I tore it apart 10+years ago. I have another 4x4 c6 that I tore down last winter but the first one should have never been touched. The red clutches look like they weren’t even broken in yet.

Well If Everything Looks Good on The One You Tore Down 10 Years Ago, Put It Back Together.

They Used To Sell Just Rubber/Seals/Paper and Gasket Kits for 10 Bucks When I Started Doing C6's.

They Probably Cost 25 Bucks Now. You Don't Have To Buy a Master Rebuild Kit For Everything.

What Doug Said on The Forward Clutch's/Drum.

Ford Switched From Type F to Dextron Then and They Went From the Black Clutch's to Brown Ones, I believe Also.

supervel45 wrote:

curiousgeorge wrote:

supervel45 wrote:^ Yes. And Lip Seals vs. Flat Seals. Most (Maybe All) of the Kits Have Come With Both Seal Types.  Also The Valve Body's Changed on the Oil Pressure Regulator (Plate Type  Early) and Rooster Comb Detent (Very Early). Also most Late Models did not have many Clutchs and Steels. 1966-1971 or2 Had Input Shafts with the Same Spline Count, (That Could be Installed Backwards).

As for as the Kits I have always gotten the Early ones, and can't recall having a Late one to ever compare, so I Can't give you and Exact Answer.

I would check with one of the Big Wholesalers or Builders.

I won't say "Good Luck" Like the Previous Poster Because

Be Careful, (Taking it in and Out) I can barely move my fingers from the Convertor Change R&R, Ouch.

^I don't Ever Recall One That was That Bad and Such a Mayor Pain in the Ass, (It was Very High off The Ground Though).

Be Extremely Meticulous and Double Triple Check Everything and May Good Fortune be With You.

If You Have Questions Never Hesitate to Ask, or Research, Before Proceeding is a Good Policy I Have Found.  

The worst part of this whole thing is I tore it apart 10+years ago. I have another 4x4 c6 that I tore down last winter but the first one should have never been touched. The red clutches look like they weren’t even broken in yet.

Well If Everything Looks Good on The One You Tore Down 10 Years Ago, Put It Back Together.

They Used To Sell Just Rubber/Seals/Paper and Gasket Kits for 10 Bucks When I Started Doing C6's.

They Probably Cost 25 Bucks Now. You Don't Have To Buy a Master Rebuild Kit For Everything.

What Doug Said on The Forward Clutch's/Drum.

Ford Switched From Type F to Dextron Then and They Went From the Black Clutch's to Brown Ones, I believe Also.

I’m pretty certain this one had red alto’s in it. I didn’t figure they would be any good after being out so long.

I was wrong these aren’t red. But look pretty new.

curiousgeorge wrote:I was wrong these aren’t red. But look pretty new.

How much for shipping, I'll take them.

Seriously though I have, on my own Transmissions re-used good clutch's that I have saved for years.

Soak them in ATF for a few days if you are worried about them being dried out. I have not had any problems with mine.

Make sure you have around .010" clearance per clutch or What Frank reccomends if you use his Valve Body, with few Exceptions.

Watch Frank's Build Video's, a Few Times.

It's Always Good to Have a Rebuilt Backup Transmission Ready as Well as Plenty of Spare Parts Around.

The Beauty of C6's as Well as TH350's and 400's is Back in the 1980's and 90's When EFI and Overdrives Took Off, They were almost Giving Them Away.

I was Getting Light Duty Car C6's for 10 Bucks and HD Wrecker and Taxi/Police C6's for 25 Bucks Then.

^Not So Much These Days Though.

Got it put back together today. I should have left it alone when I tore it down. It didn’t have many miles on it and all but 2 springs that I replaced with the trans go kit were the same color so I’m assuming it already had one installed.

curiousgeorge wrote:Got it put back together today. I should have left it alone when I tore it down.  It didn’t have many miles on it and all but 2 springs that I replaced with the trans go kit were the same color so I’m assuming it already had one installed.

^ That is very possible on you Shift Kit.

I ASS/UME The Seperator Plate was Drilled?

The Good (High Dollar B&M Shift Kit) and The Manual/Automatic Transgo are Pretty Close to The Same.

One Day When I get Time or am Really Bored I will Post Pictures from The Instructions from Both of Them.

Might Even Dig Out a 1980's Transgo Blue and White Box Kit Too.

PS: Don"t Run Flat Seal Forward Drums/Pistons on a Hot Rod Big Block or Anything Else if You Can Avoid it.