Paint & Body guys ??

I have a project vehical (92 F150) the truck came from the factory a grape / plumb color. Then someone painted the truck with some type of single stage paint, it's almost like epoxy it's so hard. It has paint runs, chips and one guy said it looked like they didn't wait long enough between coats.
I have bought another front clip that has never been painted except from the factory.

Ok, point of the story, would painting the truck a Satin Black be the easiest thing for me to do myself at home?
Which Sealer / Primer?
Which paint to use?
Spray Gun?

Picture of the truck. I'd like to paint it satin black. It's hard to see all the chips and chemical wrinkls.

Sounds like they used way too much hardener in it. Thats also why it's chipping off. JMO

Yup, I can use a high pressure sprayer and the paint will flake off as long as I start at a chipped area. I just can't afford to have the truck pro painted. One of our forum members painted his car using rattle can satin black and it looks real good. But he said that the paint with scratch real easy.

Hey jones take a look at the Summit stuff. I'm headed in that direction myself.

Jones, I painted my T-Bird with Tremclad (Rustoleum for you!). Mixed in a bit of hardener and shot it in flat black. You can mix flat and gloss half and half if you don't want it as flat. It is really durable and the paint job cost me about $35. I just used a HVLP gun I borrowed from a buddy.

Photo Bucket won't let me post a pic right now Hopefully you remember seeing it....

Bill

Jones here is where I get my paint at http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspcolors.aspx if you have any ?s they will help you with them .I haven't had any problems with there paint I painted my 69 F100 and my ranger with there paint turned out great.

69f100 Than's that is a cool site good prices nice colors I'm going to give them a try. Any tip's?

I know I want to use a single stage. I just don't know what kind. Enamel, Urethane or Acrylic Lacquer? Educate me please!

Jonesy, I also bought my paint from tcpglobal. It's a single stage urethane from the Kustom Shops Hot Rod Flatz line. So far it has been holding up great and I have had a few spills on it. There are base coat-clear coats out there with a stain finish, but it cost a lot more than the single stage urethane. It cost me $150 to paint the Mustang.

I am thinking I would like to paint the truck satin black with a wimbeldon white gloss stripe going down the middle. Then some red penstriping! Atleast that sounds good in my head.

Do you think I will need to sand down to bare metal on the parts that have been painted with this red paint?

Jones I like the acrylic enamel the lacquer work good but it fads faster out in the sun.I painted my 69 the first time lasted about 2 years and started fadding with lacquer and will scratch easy.The acrylic seams to be harder and not scratch as easy.If I was you I would just sand it good you don't have to sand it to the metal.Dan being the painter's son I believe he has said one time before probley knows more about paint than me I'm a shadetree painter.

I used Rustoleum flat black on a 72 Ranchero I was working on a few years ago. I took the old paint off with a Makita angle grinder with a wire brush wheel and then sprayed the rustoleum (rattle can stuff). Definately get the little plascit handle thing if you can, it'll save your fingers!

The problem I found with using rattle can black is it will fade in the sun real quick.

Oddly enough the rustoleum stuff I used still looks as good as the day I sprayed it (nearly 3 years ago). While the majority of the Ranchero is gone the front sheetmetal still lives on on the front of my buddies 72 Gran Torino.

Jones,

Just to clarify: I didn't use the rattle can stuff, I bought two quarts and mixed in the hardener. I found painting with the can would produce the old "tiger stripe" effect. A real paint gun gives much better results.

Bill

Jones, the most important part of any paint job is the preparation. You don't have to sand to bare metal but you should feather any chips/flaking paint and sand out the runs. Also pay attention to all the edges and around any trim, that's where it will start to peel first. I would prime any body work and anywhere you've broken through the top coat with a catalyzed primer, this will prevent or minimize any potential shrinking or lifting. You definitely want to use a urethane product as a top coat as they will provide the best UV protection and chemical resistance. Since you're not painting for a living a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight will do the job. We use Sherwin Williams products at work but the TCP Global stuff looks good for the price. For best results you should stay with the same manufacturer from start to finish.

Jones,

Just like Mike R said, the prep work is the key to ANY paint job.

If I was on a budget (like who isn't) and had a limited amount of $$ to work with, I'd do all the prep work myself and keep my eyes open for a deal thru Maaco.

I know, I know,......Maaco might have a reputation for shitty work, but I've known a couple of guys that have done their own prep work at home and used Maaco just to tape off the car/truck & spray the color.

I tell ya what, the quality really suprised me. I'd say if you don't get in a hurry and luck up on one of their specials they run from time to time, you could have them lay down some urethane enamel paint for under 300 bucks.



IMO, It's at least worth looking into.

I would get a tube of glazing putty for those chip spots. Anything you can see or feel will show through new paint job! You can get it at any parts store.

Not a body man but have done some painting in the past ( 25 years ago ) with Chronar, Ditzler, Deltron, Centari? I can't even remember the names. Anyway, there may be several reasons your paint is peeling off. First, it may have bad prep prior to applying paint. Second, if the buildup of paint and primer is too thick ( Mill Thickness ), it will peel off also. Third, bad application methods. Now if you try to topcoat over any of the prior problems, you may be sorry later on. If you think any of these fit the criteria of your problem, you need to sand that badboy down and start over fresh instead of trying to coat over someone elses mistakes. If the base coat is in good shape then topcoat.
Gloss Black is the hardest, most unforgiving color to paint a car. Bodywork has to be flawless. ( all my cars have been black : )
The biggest mistake I ever did was to paint a car in my garage. You expose your family to some very toxic materials. Wear a respirator even for sanding primer. I frown everytime I see these guys dry sanding with no mask on. Dust attacts lungs, solvents attact liver, kidney, brain. Be carefull. The manufacture that sells your supplies figures you will be wearing all the safety equipment. Forced air respiratior, Tylex suite, Buytle gloves for solvent, etc..
Not trying to tell anyone how to do things, just want to bring some safety issues to light.

Tom