IDT Block Oil Pump Drive

Assembling my new IDT Eliminator block and
discovered the SVO oil pump drive rod doesnt fit!
It seems to be about 1/2" too long from the little
retainer ring to the pump. The retainer ring is all
the way down too. Anyone run into this before?
Is the IDT casting thicker up by the retainer ring
and I need to extend the flats on the oil pump
drive to move the ring down farther? HELP!

Rich

Yes I had the same problem with the last one I did. The casting under the distributor is deeper than the Ford blocks.

Ended up leaving the little keeper off and hoping the damn thing did not pull out some day. I think there are good oil pump drives that are hex all the way so you could push the keeper down further but I stayed with the bigger one cause I know they work.

Next time the block is in the machine shop I will get them to bore that hole out a bit.

dkp

Thanks! Figured it was an IDT thing. I know what you mean,
I'd hate to have the drive fall out into the pan at the track
sometime if I pull the mag out! That wouldnt be fun. I'll
grind the flats back another 1/2" or so and push the ring
down more. I wonder why IDT didnt print something about
this in the docs that came with the block??

Thanks again!
Rich

I would be careful grinding on the drive. Depending on the hardening process or material used you could grind through a hardened outer layer and be left with a weak spot? At the very least you want to polish the ground area to remove stress risers. I would call the manufacturer of the drive and check with them on that one.

dkp

I use the MELLING drive shaft which is hardened but, full hex.

AlkyPinto wrote:Thanks! Figured it was an IDT thing. I know what you mean,
I'd hate to have the drive fall out into the pan at the track
sometime if I pull the mag out! That wouldnt be fun. I'll
grind the flats back another 1/2" or so and push the ring
down more. I wonder why IDT didnt print something about
this in the docs that came with the block??

Thanks again!
Rich

because std, oil drives are hexed all the way,and some harden ones are too, so its not idt's fault, i have 3 idt blocks here,and i didnt have to move a thing,but i had to on a svo block last year?


-rich

rmcomprandy wrote:I use the MELLING drive shaft which is hardened but, full hex.

Is that the black kinda anodized one that they send with the HV pumps?

dkp

I am going to buy a idt soon about how much machine work do you guys run into .I know some of
the cheby aftermarket blocks took a lot to get together .One guy i know calls them a block kit.

bosshoss wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:I use the MELLING drive shaft which is hardened but, full hex.

Is that the black kinda anodized one that they send with the HV pumps?

dkp

YEP ... you can buy it seperately but, MELLING does provide it with some pumps.

As with ANY block used for serious racing, EVERYTHING needs to be checked and "adjusted" to your or your builders specs. The PREMIER and ULTRA blocks come rough bored to 4.495 or so, the SPORTSMAN comes in around 4.355 bore There is enough meat in the SPORTSMAN to finish hone to 4.360 (429/460 standard bore) or 4.500 on the others. Main bearing bores run on the tight side and MAY need to be align honed to your favorite size. Decks are usually parallel and square with in .002, deck height should be within .003 of 10.320. Lifter bores may need a quick hone to adjust clearance. cam bearing bores are the right size for the FRPP roller cam bearings (gettum from Lem).

As with most "real" race parts ... those blocks come with enough extra stock everywhere to size all the dimensions exactly the way the builder will want to run them; not sized to some predetermined compromize sizing, simply so the mass unversed populace are able to run them "out of the box" by just performing a simple bore & hone.
If it's to be a real race engine - NOTHING just fits.

and how big (realistically) does the avg bore of the Premier block go? IDT states 4.7

rmcomprandy wrote:As with most "real" race parts ... those blocks come with enough extra stock everywhere to size all the dimensions exactly the way the builder will want to run them; not sized to some predetermined compromize sizing, simply so the mass unversed populace are able to run them "out of the box" by just performing a simple bore & hone.
If it's to be a real race engine - NOTHING just fits.

AMEN Bro !!! This needs to Be a Sticky Post........

The ULTRA and PREMIER blocks will go to 4.700 and, nominally, have .200 wall thickness (shared in the center due to siamesed bores).

dfree383 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:As with most "real" race parts ... those blocks come with enough extra stock everywhere to size all the dimensions exactly the way the builder will want to run them; not sized to some predetermined compromize sizing, simply so the mass unversed populace are able to run them "out of the box" by just performing a simple bore & hone.
If it's to be a real race engine - NOTHING just fits.

AMEN Bro !!! This needs to Be a Sticky Post........

X2! Cookie cutters need not apply

chuck stevens wrote:The ULTRA and PREMIER blocks will go to 4.700 and, nominally, have .200 wall thickness (shared in the center due to siamesed bores).

Thanks Chuck.

Calm down Randy take a pill smoke on something brother. i know you cant JUST buy a block and hone and
go BUT i have seen some aftermarket chevy stuff very very crude and others pretty close to the builders
specs .I know what your saying .I have seen some come without holes tapped major casting flash and just
a very rough cast condition .My question was answered.Thanks

jts557 wrote:Calm down Randy take a pill smoke on something brother. i know you cant JUST buy a block and hone and
go BUT i have seen some aftermarket chevy stuff very very crude and others pretty close to the builders
specs .I know what your saying .I have seen some come without holes tapped major casting flash and just
a very rough cast condition .My question was answered.Thanks

I was simply stating the facts and not directed toward anywhere in particular; this wasn't even your thread.

I know it wasnt .You just come across like you are trying to belittle people .I am sure thats not the
way .Just remember some of us are not prof engine builders .I have 25 years fixing cars not doing
motors thats why i come here to learn .Trust me i dont want to start crap with anyone.

chuck stevens wrote:The ULTRA and PREMIER blocks will go to 4.700 and, nominally, have .200 wall thickness (shared in the center due to siamesed bores).

Do these blocks come with a sonic test sheet?

Todd

No.

This is the second IDT Primier block I've purchased. The first one
I used for a drysump motor (645) so never ran into the oil pump
drive problem. That motor doesnt use a conventional pump.

I noticed the problem assembling this 2nd motor (Boss 600) thats
a conventional wet sump. The full hex oil pump drive that comes
with the Melling pump would work fine with the retainer ring moved
down, but it doesnt look anywhere near as heavy duty as the
Ford Motorsports piece so I've never used it.

To answer the other question, no the blocks dont come with sonic
test data, but they will go 4.700". I'm running mine at 4.650"
and 4.600". One word of caution - check for available rings before
you commit to a bore size!

Alky,
Did you run roller cam bearings or go with conv style ?

Todd

The IDT Premier block is bored for and requires
50mm roller cam bearings. So you dont have
an option for conventional cam bearings. I
used the ones from Ford Motorsports.