stalls if floored?

HI again, i have a issue after swaping a carb that it will not stall and die if floored. I have adjusted and even checked timing the carb was rebuilt prior to install and I even tried disabling the 4v incase it was "flooding" the holley carb has had the float lvls rechecked and the acc. pump IS moving the second the throttle is moved. Good vacuum and the car runs great, only issue is the stall and dye if flored and stalls if to much gas from a dead stop. Car was fine and floorable with old carb so It much be a adj on the carb.


Oh yes the choke is fine and it will do this hot or cold.

Peace and Love Ron

Stalling when floored usually indicates that the carb is going lean. Could need bigger shooters and or bigger accelerator pumps. What is the list number of the carb?

dkp

err list # i dont remember but its a 600 holley single pumper square and with the silly gas feed tube down the side. It was a remaned when purchased and the list number was strange. I can go look if its....lol ill brb (pause) its a 80457-2

A Holley 600cfm sp is pretty small for even a mild 460. It should not stall it out when punched I wouldn't think, but if the tune setup is lean that size carb is only contributing to the issue.

sorry this is my 302 currently in my cougar that i am putting my 460 i just got in :-). I rebuilt and was running a 750 DP on it go get ready for the 460 but this occurred when I put the 600 back on my 302.

Ok I know you said the accelerator pump is moving but is there actually fuel coming out of the shooter?

dkp

Ill have to check that, I replaced the pump with the rebuild but it could have stopped up somewhere while sitting.

Thanks For the great idea

check your vac port for the advance,it may not be on where it needs to be.it'll retard the timing when you floor it.

ok braved the morning chill and checked squirters, there good. I noticed that the cam was set to position 2 and set to position 1 and its much better no dying but will pause for a sec then go..... whats next on the checking. as far as the vacuum how do i test that.. just pull and plug off?

Since your trying to get it done and none of the guys helping you are on...

Where does the vacuum line for the distributor hook up? You can pull it off the carb and put a vacuum gauge to it or if you don't have one at least put your finger up to the line coming from the carb or on the carbs vacuum port. It should be trying to suck air in. And, are all the other vacuum ports not being used plugged up? If the engine is running and you pull the line to the distributor off you will hear a change in idle quality. That's all the information I should give you because the rest may be incorrect. And out of curiosity have you tried driving it with the choke on?

Try opening up the idle mixture screws another 1/4 to 1/2 turn each. Otherwise I would try a bigger shooter. How is the float level? Oh and please tell me that you do not have a screw in the secondary linkage that forces it to open when you mash the throttle.

dkp

bb429power wrote:Since your trying to get it done and none of the guys helping you are on...

Where does the vacuum line for the distributor hook up? You can pull it off the carb and put a vacuum gauge to it or if you don't have one at least put your finger up to the line coming from the carb or on the carbs vacuum port. It should be trying to suck air in. And, are all the other vacuum ports not being used plugged up? If the engine is running and you pull the line to the distributor off you will hear a change in idle quality. That's all the information I should give you because the rest may be incorrect. And out of curiosity have you tried driving it with the choke on?

it should'nt suck at idle or change when unhooked from the carb,unless its on a live port,then it would retard the time.

bosshoss wrote:Try opening up the idle mixture screws another 1/4 to 1/2 turn each. Otherwise I would try a bigger shooter. How is the float level? Oh and please tell me that you do not have a screw in the secondary linkage that forces it to open when you mash the throttle.

dkp

x2 on the screw idea

Cool40, It doesn't? The engines I've worked on did. That's the only reason I said something. I just knew I wasn't right about something.

On some of the newer stuff you will have vac advance coming in at idle.
These are the ones that say to remove the hose to set timing. Never paid much attention to those cars. I think it was supposed to help emissions somehow. On the older style deals with your basic single hose single canister vac advance systems there should be no vacume at idle and lots at part throttle. Generally called timed port vacume. Some carbs have two ports. one gives you the timed port thing while the other is just manifold vacume. If you hook up to the manifold vac you will have lots of vac at idle and none or at least much less when the throttle is open.

dkp

all unused vacuum hoses are plugged and mine is the type that will have vacuum at a cold idle for warm up then drop away at warm idle. it is working correctly. no no screw is in the linkage but i never though of that....(dreams of full time four barrel) I noticed on the metering block the passenger side isn't responding to adjustment as well as the drivers side so i may have a metering block issue (i set with a vacuum gauge) I filled up yesterday and put a bottle of seafoam in and drove about 100 miles and will check today to see if it helped (gas mileage was 8 MPG on last fill up and thats bad, I normally get 12mpg street and hi-way)

majik455 wrote:no no screw is in the linkage but i never though of that....(dreams of full time four barrel)

There's your stalling answer. The secondaries don't have an accel pump.

Having no screw in the linkage is a good thing.
Guys that put the screw in trying to force the secondary's to open end up with a bog.
Sounds like this one is ok. If I am reading his response correctly.

dkp

I think i got her all fixed now ...thank you all for the great ideas and help.

Much love Ron