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Free-floating stock rods

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DanH
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Post  72mav September 9th 2009, 11:10 pm

Anyone ever done it? Considering having them honed for floaters. Any oil mods for them,or will a splash get it done?
Thanks.
Al
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Post  Carl September 9th 2009, 11:32 pm

For the time and money involved you could have a better set of aftermarket rods......unless of course you're trying to avoid offshore parts.

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Post  Frank Merkl September 10th 2009, 12:01 am

I use to do it all the time ! back in the old day's ! also drilled a 1/8" hole in the top and chamfer it to funnel oil in and the pinend never broke but broke a lot mid beam
Frank
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Post  72mav September 10th 2009, 7:26 am

Carl wrote:For the time and money involved you could have a better set of aftermarket rods......unless of course you're trying to avoid offshore parts.

YES carl, no offshore $^&(B.S/JUNK here. Laughing Wink Besides this is a budget bracket motor anyway. I like the box TRW, Rmfd in U.S.A.! If I could afford it, it would have Bill Millers in it. But this dont need that kind of rod anyway. NEXT ONE! Twisted Evil Twisted Evil Thanks.

Frank, how much pin clearance?

Old school is still good in some applications IMO.
Thank you Gentlemen.
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Post  rmcomprandy September 10th 2009, 9:34 am

Steel on steel, full floating pins is definately not new and certainly OK for a competition type engine. I don't think the pins will live on the street spending a lot of time at idle or low speed with no oil throw-off unless the pins are Casadium coated but, then it is no longer inexpensive.

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Post  Carl September 10th 2009, 10:19 am

Al Martin wrote:
Carl wrote:For the time and money involved you could have a better set of aftermarket rods......unless of course you're trying to avoid offshore parts.

YES carl, no offshore $^&(B.S/JUNK here. Laughing Wink Besides this is a budget bracket motor anyway. I like the box TRW, Rmfd in U.S.A.! If I could afford it, it would have Bill Millers in it. But this dont need that kind of rod anyway. NEXT ONE! Twisted Evil Twisted Evil Thanks.

Frank, how much pin clearance?

Old school is still good in some applications IMO.
Thank you Gentlemen.


If it's a budget bracket motor, why do you want to float them? Press em and be done with it.

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Post  72mav September 10th 2009, 1:55 pm

Because I can Carl. Laughing Its worth something.

Randy, Thanks also. BTW, this will only be a strip engine.
Regards.
Al
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Post  72puller September 10th 2009, 10:24 pm

I had a set in one of my motors with heavy TRW domes. Turned it 6500-7000 for 3 seasons without any trouble. They are still running in another motor but it doesn't turn but about 5800.

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Post  DanH September 11th 2009, 11:46 am

there is no power gain in floater pins .

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Post  dfree383 September 11th 2009, 11:51 am

DanH wrote:there is no power gain in floater pins .

x2 if your on a budget why waste money on floating them??

Get the Scat rods, you'll be miles ahead with them...... They are machined in the USA and the arp bolts in them are American made.....
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Post  RapidRuss September 11th 2009, 1:47 pm

Al,

I had always thought too that the less drag with the floaters would free up a little HP also..I'am surprised to hear that it doesnt ? Hmmmm...... I wonder at what Hp level the Truck Rods start to want to go away ? or exit stage right ?
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Post  Carl September 11th 2009, 2:31 pm

The only advantage to floating the pins is that they won't vibrate themselves out and score the cyl wall as can happen with press pins.....and if you're running hard enough to do that, you should be running better rods. You may stop the pin from walking, but you won't stop the beam from breaking. Better to spend the money on a lighter piston.

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Post  72mav September 11th 2009, 11:41 pm

Who said I ws running a heavy piston???
I plan on using a set in the 600 gram range.
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Post  Doug Rahn September 12th 2009, 6:59 am

IMHO I think full floating pins are more of a ease of assembly/dis-assembly thing, no special tools required.
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Post  rmcomprandy September 12th 2009, 10:47 am

Carl wrote:The only advantage to floating the pins is that they won't vibrate themselves out and score the cyl wall as can happen with press pins.....and if you're running hard enough to do that, you should be running better rods. You may stop the pin from walking, but you won't stop the beam from breaking. Better to spend the money on a lighter piston.

The ONLY advantage??? I'm guessing you don't often take engines apart for maintainance purposes...

In over 40 years in the engine business I have never seen a "pressed pin" vibrate out UNLESS it didn't have the correct amount of press to begin with.

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Post  DanH September 12th 2009, 10:55 am

Doug Rahn wrote:IMHO I think full floating pins are more of a ease of assembly/dis-assembly thing, no special tools required.
X2 , but sometimes I wonder when installing double spirial locks, yet a friend can get 4 on to my 1

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Post  Nevs September 12th 2009, 10:57 am

DanH wrote:
Doug Rahn wrote:IMHO I think full floating pins are more of a ease of assembly/dis-assembly thing, no special tools required.
X2 , but sometimes I wonder when installing double spirial locks, yet a friend can get 4 on to my 1

I know what you mean, finger pinching little sob's Exclamation
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Post  72mav September 12th 2009, 4:33 pm

Thanks for the replies Gentlemen. Smile Smile
Regards.
Al


Last edited by Al Martin on September 12th 2009, 4:55 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : bad spelling)
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