engine build in Dallas, check it out

So, I posted in the intro forum that I would start an engine build thread so here it is.

I've managed to find some good deals on used parts on here and the other forum to keep the budget reasonable. I'm still looking for a few little parts. I'm also looking for an engine builder in the Dallas area as I learned the hard way I'm not a great engine builder and I want this thing to be dead nuts reliable. I live literally 3 blocks from David Wells Racing Engines in Duncanville but last time I talked to them they said they don't really have experience with Fords. So if any one knows a great bbf builder in Dallas area let me know!!

Its gonna be a 547 with P51 heads in a 71 Torino.

Now for the current build specs/parts list

D1 block .040 over
4.5 forged crank
6.7 H beams
Dished KB forged pistons with DOVE and P51 valve reliefs about 10.25:1 compression
Crane Ignition box from previous build, might reuse Duraspark too
Ported Dom flange Victor
Ported P51 heads (got these from Charlie Evans, they are monster heads!) flow 420ish
Harland sharp rockers

things I still need

sv1 carb
New solid roller set up... I know there has been a ton of debate on this but I'm thinking the Isky's are the best bet but open to opinion
HEADERS!!!! This motor is going in a 71 torino so it seems like quality options are a bit limited. I already have the 1 7/8 hookers for DOVE heads and I think other people have used these with SCJ/P51 heads but I know they are less than ideal. I want a set of headers that do not go under the cross member like these do. The ground clearance is awfull!!


I'm sure there are a million other things I'll need but you guess get the idea.



Steven

Sounds like a nice powerplant.

After buying and running the custom built cam I have now it's the first custom cam for me but want be the last.I would talk with some of the cam designers on here I got mine from Randy Malick but they are more like Lem and few others.

Probably get it through Lem. My only debate was what lifter to use. There seems to be a lot of debate on the subject. I just want something that will live happily on the street.

Combination states 4.5 stroke, 6.7 rod in a D1 block.
Isnt the pin way out of the bottom? If you dont have the rods and pistons yet go with a 6.8 rod set-up.
Assuming street use from the compression ratio how long is this going to last? Is there anyone else that has done this with great longevity on the street?

Dave

well fudge.. I didn't think about that. I was always under the impression that you couldn't use the D9 blocks with the longer stroke because the cylinder walls extend too far down. Yeah, I already bought the parts. I purchased them from some one on the forum for a great price so its not a big deal, but yeah that might be a problem.

I've run a 4 inch stroke on a LSx motor as a daily driver so I'm not afraid of a long stroke on the street. If you set it up right it'll be fine, but apparently I might have messed up already... oops!!

Dave De wrote:Combination states 4.5 stroke, 6.7 rod in a D1 block.
Isnt the pin way out of the bottom? Is there anyone else that has done this with great longevity on the street?

Yes, thousands of build combos used the D1 block and 6.7 rods and lived successfully. This is how all the original 557 stroker combos were offered, the world over.

Not long ago, the D9 block was considered a late model thin-wall casting and so everyone dismssed it. During that same time, the 4.5 strokers were available only with 6.7 rods; the 6.8 package didn't even exist yet. And so people ran D1VE blocks and 6.7 rods. There is no side thrusting at BDC so don't worry about seeing the pin in the crankcase at BDC. As far as cylinder thrust further up the bore (upstroke or downstroke) the difference is negligible in most builds and more notable as engine performance goes up. In fact, I'd go as far as to say that (techinically) the 6.7 rod combo is better suited for the street than it is for an all-out racing engine. And this is a 10.25:1 street combo, so it ought not be a big deal. Incidentally, the rod ratio difference is a mere 0.02 (1.49 vs. 1.51).

Is the D9TE block and 6.8 rod a better suited parts combo? Yes it is. Does that make the D1VE/6.7 rod combo junk or problematic? No, not at all...certainly not in this application.

Paul

There are very few header options for these cars and all but the "shorty" type have the front tubes going under the crossmember.
I'm running Hooker 6115's which are also 1 7/8" primary tube.

Ranch71460 wrote:There are very few header options for these cars and all but the "shorty" type have the front tubes going under the crossmember.
I'm running Hooker 6115's which are also 1 7/8" primary tube.

Im currently running the Hooker 6115s. I purchased the 2 inch primary headers from Crites and will be switching over this fall.

I dont think any header is going to have great ground clearance in a 70/71 Torino with the way that huge crossmember is durectly under the engine.

Pics please! and continue with updates...

Shane

Paul, thanks for stepping in here and setting the record straight about this combination! I rather use what I have but if the D9 will work better they are easy to find.
,


Shane, seeing your build really helped make up my mind to get back to work on this car. How well do the 6115s match these heads? Aren't those crites headers a new design that doesn't go under the cross member? Post some pics of them before you install them, cause its looking like they are about the only option out there.

I'll post some pics later when I can get to my computer.

THanks
Steven

SLord82 wrote:Paul, thanks for stepping in here and setting the record straight about this combination! I rather use what I have but if the D9 will work better they are easy to find.

THanks
Steven

If you have not yet invested anything into the D1VE block and can use a D9TE instead of the D1VE, then that would be better than the D1VE block techically speaking...no reason to pass that up.

In fact, while were splitting hairs over these dimensions: a 6.7 rodded D9TE-blocked 557 would surround the piston pin with more cylinder bore coverage at BDC than a 6.8 rodded D1VE-blocked 557 (due to the longer cylinders of the D9TE block). But it's not a staggering difference in the big picture of things.

Paul Kane wrote:

SLord82 wrote:Paul, thanks for stepping in here and setting the record straight about this combination! I rather use what I have but if the D9 will work better they are easy to find.

THanks
Steven

If you have not yet invested anything into the D1VE block and can use a D9TE instead of the D1VE, then that would be better than the D1VE block techically speaking...no reason to pass that up.

In fact, while were splitting hairs over these dimensions: a 6.7 rodded D9TE-blocked 557 would surround the piston pin with more cylinder bore coverage at BDC than a 6.8 rodded D1VE-blocked 557 (due to the longer cylinders of the D9TE block). But it's not a staggering difference in the big picture of things.

My current engine is a D1 block with very little use. It has gone through all the machining and I expect it will be reusable as it sits. That will save about 700 in machine costs and 100 on a block. The reason I'm tearing it down, is A) to go faster (duh) and 2) because it has almost 0 oil pressure at idle when hot (does about 50psi cold idle and looks fine at RPM when hot). The car sat for a few years with out running and even though I primed it with a drill before running it again I'm guessing the cam bearings or main bearings are toast, so it needs to be pulled anyway.

Will a D9 clear an internal balance 4.5 stroke crank?

I'm in no rush and still collecting parts so I'll keep my eyes pealed for a D9 that some one may have done the work on but is getting rid of.

SLord82 wrote:

Paul Kane wrote:

SLord82 wrote:Paul, thanks for stepping in here and setting the record straight about this combination! I rather use what I have but if the D9 will work better they are easy to find.

THanks
Steven

If you have not yet invested anything into the D1VE block and can use a D9TE instead of the D1VE, then that would be better than the D1VE block techically speaking...no reason to pass that up.

In fact, while were splitting hairs over these dimensions: a 6.7 rodded D9TE-blocked 557 would surround the piston pin with more cylinder bore coverage at BDC than a 6.8 rodded D1VE-blocked 557 (due to the longer cylinders of the D9TE block). But it's not a staggering difference in the big picture of things.

My current engine is a D1 block with very little use. It has gone through all the machining and I expect it will be reusable as it sits. That will save about 700 in machine costs and 100 on a block. The reason I'm tearing it down, is A) to go faster (duh) and 2) because it has almost 0 oil pressure at idle when hot (does about 50psi cold idle and looks fine at RPM when hot). The car sat for a few years with out running and even though I primed it with a drill before running it again I'm guessing the cam bearings or main bearings are toast, so it needs to be pulled anyway.

Will a D9 clear an internal balance 4.5 stroke crank?

I'm in no rush and still collecting parts so I'll keep my eyes pealed for a D9 that some one may have done the work on but is getting rid of.

Paul,
Thanks for the extra clarification.
And yes the current available Scat, Eagle, and RPM cranks clear the D9 block. I am using the forged RPM in a D9 and no clearance required.