Intake noise?

I recently transplanted a 1976 460 into my 1965 Galaxie 500 , but before it went in, I replaced the intake manifold gaskets, valve covers, and Carb gaskets. before the transplant the motor ran smooth , but now after the first start in the Galaxie it soulds like ... Like the noise a dry bearing would make when the bendix is stuck on the starter.. I even changed out the starter thinking that is where it was coming from.. but 4 other people say its coming from the carb. this has a factory carb and intake. the thing that makes me question the intake gasket is this... I replaced it with a felpro gasket set, full belly pan one.. it seems to have 3 layers of sheet metal and is riveted together at the intake ports. the rivets although stick out the intake seems to seal. I never heard a noisse like this from anything other than a dry bearing on a electric motor. so im wondering if anyone has used this type of gasket or can reccomend a better intake gasket.. heads are D3EV, stock intake manifold, 1976 Thunderbird 460. this is the first time ive had a felpro gaket set that didnt work for me. is a full belly pan required on the 460? or can you get a set that covers the ends and ports? whats your thoughts? I know I know, ditchthe intake and that monster junk carb.. that is in the works, but have to wait till the money flows in.

Wait, your saying you have a valley pan installed, and it has metal gaskets riveted on both sides correct? I am probably not of any help, but I bought one of those. When it was time to install it I didnt like how the gaskets were so I said screw it. So I put the intake on without it and used my nice, not cheaply made, intake gaskets... it didn't look like it could possibly seal good...

Ditch the valley pan, and use regular intake gaskets for the head side, and RTV on the ends for the china walls.

schmitty wrote:Ditch the valley pan, and use regular intake gaskets for the head side, and RTV on the ends for the china walls.

X2

schmitty wrote:Ditch the valley pan, and use regular intake gaskets for the head side, and RTV on the ends for the china walls.

X3

If you replaced the gaskets between the intake manifold and spacer, and carb... make sure they were actually for the factory intake to the factory spacer, not a generic gasket for a holley carb. There is a little space that won't be covered by a generic gasket when using the factory spacer under the carb, and will leak, like an exhaust leak you can't figure out why the heck it is coming from the carb area... lol.

EDIT: Here is a link to the mounting base gasket, and other carb gaskets...
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1976-Ford-F250-3-4-ton-P-U-2WD/Carburetor-Mounting-Base-Gasket/_/N-inwnuZ8vfxj

I installed the correct gaskets under the carb and spacer block. all tightened down correctly according to specs. it was the intake that was the pain.. big ole sheet metal with strips laminated to the sides where the heads are and then riveted together. I never understood the reason for the valley pan myself. but I'm going to rip it out of there and go with just the 4 piece gaskets.

The Valley Pan is to keep oil from hitting and baking onto the crossover.

dfree383 wrote:The Valley Pan is to keep oil from hitting and baking onto the crossover.

did not know that but it makes sense.. thank you. learn something new every day.

James1965 wrote: I'm going to rip it out of there and go with just the 4 piece gaskets.

Toss the end pieces away and use a bead of RTV in their place. Make sure that there is a good alignment between the head and manifold also. ie, no misalignment because of machining.

I have had valley pans in mine since I put the motor together. I have had the intake off 3 times with replacements. Those rivits look scary as hell but somehow manage to seal. RTV at the front and back corners never a noise or leak problem. They will keep hot oil from heating the underside of the intake.

Valley pans make an excellent tray for cooking Thanksgiving turkey. The best part is the intake holes provide a grip when pulling it out the oven.

the valley pan was the only way i could stop the intake on my old street car from cooking.it would boil fuel out the carb vents on very hot days.

D-Rail wrote: I have had valley pans in mine since I put the motor together. I have had the intake off 3 times with replacements. Those rivits look scary as hell but somehow manage to seal. RTV at the front and back corners never a noise or leak problem. They will keep hot oil from heating the underside of the intake.

why toss the end pieces? hmm.. never trusted RTV all by itself.. the end pieces on it now are pretty nice... is this the normal for the 460?
I live in Pennsylvania so it doesnt usually get too hot here. the car wont be a dragster by any means so I think i should be able to get away without the valley pan gasket. hope the economy picks up so i can get back to the 50 hour work weeks, then I can buy the new intake without the wife castrating me. eek!

IMO,If the end rail gaskets are the rubber ones with the rubber sticking out of them that go to the holes in the block use them.I use them and never had any problems with them.

Later Mark.

TA-34 on the ends is the only way to go, ditch the end gaslets / seals, they move and leak.