Putting a 429 in a 69 Mustang Fastback

mark69stang429 October 6th 2011, 10:34 pm

I am installing a ford 429 (out of a 72 LTD) and putting it in a 69 fastback. I plan on using long tube headers. I am going to do a dry run by placing it in the engine bay. Is there any do's or don't's from someone that has done the installations. Any inner fenders or shock tower mod's. Thanks Mark

the Coug October 6th 2011, 10:44 pm

Notch your shock towers, makes changing plugs much easier.....if you are going 429 why not go to 460 more torque and easier to find pieces for....

cool40 October 7th 2011, 1:58 pm

same deal as the 460 in a coupe thread down the page>>>>>>>>>>

bruno October 7th 2011, 2:46 pm

cool40 wrote:same deal as the 460 in a coupe thread down the page>>>>>>>>>>

https://www.429-460.com/t11685-70-mustang-coupe-460-swap

cool40 October 7th 2011, 9:02 pm

bruno wrote:
cool40 wrote:same deal as the 460 in a coupe thread down the page>>>>>>>>>>

https://www.429-460.com/t11685-70-mustang-coupe-460-swap

thanks Nick!

bbf-falcon October 8th 2011, 8:40 am

CJ Pony parts has them already notched and look really nice.http://www.cjponyparts.com/DRIVER+SIDE+NOTCHED+SHOCK+TOWER+KIT/p/M3631HL/

StickBBF October 8th 2011, 9:42 am

bbf-falcon wrote:CJ Pony parts has them already notched and look really nice.http://www.cjponyparts.com/DRIVER+SIDE+NOTCHED+SHOCK+TOWER+KIT/p/M3631HL/

But those are NOT the same as what are in '69s..... those are for '67-'68 Mustangs; which are different. Crying or Very sad

StickBBF

the Coug October 8th 2011, 10:17 am

if it is not going to be put back original what does it matter???????

richter69 October 8th 2011, 10:35 am

easier to notch the existing towers than to cut them out and install new ones........plus its a whole lot cheaper lol.

StickBBF October 8th 2011, 11:05 am

richter69 wrote:easier to notch the existing towers than to cut them out and install new ones........plus its a whole lot cheaper lol.

....and he could still use his OEM upper A-arms too. I think the '67-'68 CJPP modified towers eliminate them. Shocked

StickBBF

mark69stang429 October 8th 2011, 10:17 pm

I agree, I am using the existing front end. I would rather notch then replace the shock towers. Upgrading the springs and shocks. The car came with the heavy duty suspension. Also using a larger front sway bar.

the Coug October 8th 2011, 10:45 pm

mark take your upper A arms and lower them one inch to the Shelby position you will thank me for this .....it will make the car handle easier and steer better....

LivermoreDave October 9th 2011, 9:16 am

As I mentioned in an earlier topic, considering your application is not "all-out race", use a well prepared C4 if your plans include an automatic type of transmission. A C4 will take alot of punishment when prepared correctly, offer much needed room in the transmission tunnel, add overall performance and much easier for one person to install and/or remove. I like fabricating the engine mounts myself, seems the "one fits all" parts don't seem to work very well for me! Either I'm to stupid to make it work or simply just to damn particular! Need headers? Let me know. Those shock tower modifications will help, tremendously, and will look great when fab'd properly.
Dave.

the Coug October 9th 2011, 9:20 am

Dave I also have a set of 2inch tubular automotives for the 429/460 in 69 or 70...few dings but they are used...

bbf-falcon October 9th 2011, 7:04 pm

the Coug wrote:Dave I also have a set of 2inch tubular automotives for the 429/460 in 69 or 70...few dings but they are used...

Those are good headers for that swap,if they are the 10 piece ones.

the Coug October 9th 2011, 9:40 pm

bbf-falcon wrote:
the Coug wrote:Dave I also have a set of 2inch tubular automotives for the 429/460 in 69 or 70...few dings but they are used...

Those are good headers for that swap,if they are the 10 piece ones.

yes Rick 8 tubes 2 collectors.....

4thHorseman October 11th 2011, 7:36 pm

I did this swap a few years ago before I frequented these BBF sites. Notching the shock towers is a really good idea. I didn't do it right away but when I refreshed my build. I kept tearing the stock shock towers from the hard hole shots. Well worth it for strength and space. Otherwise you have to remove your valve covers to swap out your plugs. Mad

Coug's Shelby mod is also a plus. I've yet to do this but everything I've read talks very positive of this for handling purposes.

I did the Crite's Gen 2 kit for motor mounts, tranny mount, and headers which I later coated. The engine is located slightly down and towards the rear (which is all good) from their previous kit and other's I've seen in classic stangs & cougars but I don't know the manufacturer of those. I'd recommend unless you are going plates. You can still easily get to the 4 upper bell housing bolts from above.

The Ford Racing valve covers work best if you want taller ones. They are slanted on outer side (the side closer to the headers). This helps with access to header bolts and plugs. Even with the shock towers notched, you pop that hood and its all motor everywhere.

mark69stang429 October 11th 2011, 10:17 pm

4thHorseman wrote:I did this swap a few years ago before I frequented these BBF sites. Notching the shock towers is a really good idea. I didn't do it right away but when I refreshed my build. I kept tearing the stock shock towers from the hard hole shots. Well worth it for strength and space. Otherwise you have to remove your valve covers to swap out your plugs. Coug's Shelby mod is also a plus. I've yet to do this but everything I've read talks very positive of this for handling purposes.

I did the Crite's Gen 2 kit for motor mounts, tranny mount, and headers which I later coated. The engine is located slightly down and towards the rear (which is all good) from their previous kit and other's I've seen in classic stangs & cougars but I don't know the manufacturer of those. I'd recommend unless you are going plates. You can still easily get to the 4 upper bell housing bolts from above.

The Ford Racing valve covers work best if you want taller ones. They are slanted on outer side (the side closer to the headers). This helps with access to header bolts and plugs. Even with the shock towers notched, you pop that hood and its all motor everywhere.

Makes sense to me. That is music to my ears

mark69stang429 October 12th 2011, 10:53 pm

the Coug wrote:mark take your upper A arms and lower them one inch to the Shelby position you will thank me for this .....it will make the car handle easier and steer better....

I am using the OEM suspension. How do I lower the A arms??? I am not sure what the Shelby position is. Thanks

the Coug October 13th 2011, 6:27 am

Mark the upper A arms have two bolts that hold them in place, set the car up on jack stands and remove the shocks and unload the springs and remove them then unbolt the upper A arm. and there will be 2 holes in your shock tower.... Take and move those 2 hole down exactly 1 inch, and place them back on just like they were just 1 inch lower than factory. after you have the front end aligned cut the rest of the protruding bolt off the inside, trust me you will be happy you did.. knuckles and your fingers will thank you.... This will make your car handle way better.

mark69stang429 October 13th 2011, 7:33 pm

Coug, Thanks!!! That is exactly what I needed to know. I am just a novice mechanic at best.

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Putting a 429 in a 69 Mustang Fastback

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