......

before we going and doing the final adjustments get some more pics of the bars, crossmember mounting etc, I'd make sure everything is usable first. This is not an area you want to have questionable stuff.

In my opinion you really don't have enough info/measurements yet to accurately adjust anything. You need to find out how these and other measurements relate to the car's centerline.

Working with only these limited few numbers you have so far only works if you already know for sure the crossmember is in the car perfectly square with the car's nose to tail centerline to begin with. If the crossmember is actually in the car crooked, and you adjust the rear housing perfectly parallel with the crossmember, the end result is the crossmember & the housing are both still in the car crooked in relation to the car's centerline. You really need to know how everything relates to the car's centerline first before you can decide what needs to be done.

In my drawing below the first example is the ideal layout. The the rear housing centerline & ladder bar crossmember centerline are parallel to each other, while at the same time both centerlines are square in relation to the car's centerline.

Thank those drawins where helpful.going to jack car up and level it off take all tires off.This car has some damage minor that was done at the driver front side that looks to be repaiered by a novice.so where to or can locate take the measurememts from?.. Or another option is bring it to my body man..cause i wanted that section replaced anyway then maybe he can see if everythings okay plus get est for boby work and paint ?

2fox wrote:.......so where to or can locate take the measurememts from?.........

Plotting out a car's centerline when it's on stands......

First measure every chassis crossmember (both fixed & bolt-in) & find their center point & mark it. Then drop a plum bob from these marks down to the shop floor & mark these center points on the floor. When done all these marks on the floor will represent various crossmember center points.

Next find the center points between various frame rail sections front & rear (where there aren't crossmembers). This is done by choosing a spot on a given frame rail & dropping a plum bob down to the floor & marking that point on the floor. Then repeat the procedure again on the opposing frame rail at the same spot. Now you take these two opposing marks you made on the floor & measure to find the center point between them & mark this point on the floor. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times (or how many times you want) for a given length of frame rail section that doesn't have a crossmember in the general area. When done all these marks on the floor will represent the center points between various frame rail sections.

Next you stretch a centerline string tight on the floor running from the very first center mark to the last center mark & observe how all the other marks line up in reference to the centerline string. In a perfect world (if the car wasn't ever wrecked or abused too bad) all the center marks should line up fairly well with the C/L string. IF you're lucky and all the center marks actually do line up really good with the C/L string from end to end then ****congratulations**** you now have a usable representation of the car's centerline to work with & are ready to move on to the next part.

But on the other hand, if it turns out all the assorted center marks don't line up worth a siht & things might be kinda fuuked up (the car is actually tweaked/bent/twisted some) then you have to make a decision. If all the marks don't line up real good (but are not too far off) you can choose to stretch the string from one center mark at/around the front spindle C/L area to one center mark at/around the rear axle C/L area & ignore all the rest of the marks. It's not the best solution, but it can sometimes work.

Now with a centerline string in place you can now move on to drop plum bobs/mark spots on the floor for various chassis/suspension component centerlines (rear housing C/L, ladder bar X-member C/L, etc, etc) & see how square they all are in relation the car's C/L.


It's all damn time consuming, but really should be done if you're working with a car you're not sure is "straight" to begin with.

I haven't been able to find my reference drawing for the foxbody yet, but I do know the the original lower control arm mounting holes are one of the factory reference points as are the rear K member mounting holes. I did find my drawings for the 64-65 Mustang and the 70 Mustang if anybody wants a copy. I also have one for the SN95, but not luck finding that one either. Since having a new hard drive installed, finding files is like a treasure hunt, LOL!

Doug Rahn wrote:......I did find my drawings for the 64-65 Mustang and the 70 Mustang if anybody wants a copy.........

Doug, what scale is the '70 Mustang drawn at & what format are the files?

Thanks Doug, that's damn interesting.

Something weird just happened, I posted these for the 64/65 Mustang and Falcon and the post didn't go up. Anywho here they are if someone needs them also.

Yeah! I can't believe I found it. Damn computer geek, I'm going to bust his azz for putting my files in obscure folders. This is for an '85, but they're the same.