lowering rack in fox?

Imwanting to get my BBF as low in chassis as I can for hood room. has any one dropped there rack down from stock location on a tubular k-member (i use QA1)? Looks like to do this isnt the issue that I see, its the tie rods will run up hill to the spindles. Is this an issue?

Bump steer kit will help that.

Barney wrote:Bump steer kit will help that.

where might one shop for that bump steer kit?

UPR, STEEDA, Team Z, PA, there's a bunch out there.

Barney wrote:UPR, STEEDA, Team Z, PA, there's a bunch out there.

cool, thanks I will call Team Z, they are down by detroit I think.

Yes they are.

Make sure to use offset rack bushings as well

yellowhorse7 wrote:Make sure to use offset rack bushings as well

where do those go? I was just gunna relocate the rack mounts down 2 inches.

It's the bushings that are used to mount the rack to the k-member.

jbozzelle wrote:It's the bushings that are used to mount the rack to the k-member.

gotcha. was looking at the rack last night and it doesnt look like I can move it down much at all cause the rack will hit the bar that goes up to the frame that the a-arm is attached to on drivers side. (Steering gear part of rack that shoots up to shaft)

What k-member are you using? Most dropped rack k-members also have a dropped crossmember too.

Brain fart, Im not using the power rack that is on the car, gunna replace with flaming river manual and looking at the pics I wont have that issue. i should be good. Thanks

jbozzelle wrote:What k-member are you using? Most dropped rack k-members also have a dropped crossmember too.

not sure, think its a QA1 since the guy that built car used all QA1 suspension parts. kmember has adjustable heims on a-arms.

why not just use K member spacers? Thats what i did for clearance issues. I used a 1 inch spacer kit

Larry Williams wrote:why not just use K member spacers? Thats what i did for clearance issues. I used a 1 inch spacer kit

dont need to drop the Kmember if I can drop the rack. The top of rack is 3 inches from top of kmember cross bar. Drop the rack and bumpsteer kit and its good.

You can always buy a dropped rack k-member and sell what you have. You can also switch to a Pinto rack and gain a few more inches as well...

Had to lower my rack also to fit the new mill in with an Moroso Elimnator pan.

We just cut that front k-member tube the rack fastens to and re-fabbed a new one, got the rack lowered a couple of inches. I had to lenghten the steering shaft as needed. The rack now probaby sits almost level with the new tube. Took toe measurements before and re-set them after I was done. I was concerned about bump steer also. I ran the car down the road for a couple of miles it seemed okay, so I took it to the strip and did 5 passes. Didn't feel anything out of the ordinary. I later installed some caster/camber plates and got it re-aligned. So far so good. Hope the picture helps.

bigblockfox468 wrote:Had to lower my rack also to fit the new mill in with an Moroso Elimnator pan.

We just cut that front k-member tube the rack fastens to and re-fabbed a new one, got the rack lowered a couple of inches. I had to lenghten the steering shaft as needed. The rack now probaby sits almost level with the new tube. Took toe measurements before and re-set them after I was done. I was concerned about bump steer also. I ran the car down the road for a couple of miles it seemed okay, so I took it to the strip and did 5 passes. Didn't feel anything out of the ordinary. I later installed some caster/camber plates and got it re-aligned. So far so good. Hope the picture helps.

looks good, Im gunnadrill the tubes for each mount and weld a peice of pipe into the lower tube that will fit the rack bushing and run it through lower bar and weld both side, slide the rack back onto it and bolt er on.Im gunna use a bump steer kit though.

stanggt wrote:
looks good, Im gunnadrill the tubes for each mount and weld a peice of pipe into the lower tube that will fit the rack bushing and run it through lower bar and weld both side, slide the rack back onto it and bolt er on.Im gunna use a bump steer kit though.

Good luck . Keep us posted and TAKE PICTURES

BTW... I went to Midland yesterday, spent the night came back today. Quite surprised on how much it snowed overnight . I have friends up there, Body Shop by Daniel off of Wackerly, went to school together. Got to go up there from time to time and keep him in line . You know of him?

ya, I know who Dan is, dont know alot about him though. What track do u run at? maybe we'll hook up at some point if i can get this beast back on the road, like to race it,its been awile. Some day I will learn how to attach pics here.

I run at Ubly and Lapeer. Plan on getting up to Mid-Michigan once I get everythig all sorted out.

To post pictures it isn't too hard. First go to photobucket.com and get an account set up- its free , upload your pictures there, then when you want to post here move your mouse over the picture, a drop down will show up, left click on the IMG code and it will copy your picture then get back here to post a reply and right click woo lah its there

cool thanks for the info, I should be able to do that. As soon as I go down and pick up my A460 block I will start dropping some pics as it goes together.

bigblockfox468 wrote:Had to lower my rack also to fit the new mill in with an Moroso Elimnator pan.

We just cut that front k-member tube the rack fastens to and re-fabbed a new one, got the rack lowered a couple of inches. I had to lenghten the steering shaft as needed. The rack now probaby sits almost level with the new tube. Took toe measurements before and re-set them after I was done. I was concerned about bump steer also. I ran the car down the road for a couple of miles it seemed okay, so I took it to the strip and did 5 passes. Didn't feel anything out of the ordinary. I later installed some caster/camber plates and got it re-aligned. So far so good. Hope the picture helps.

when u dropped your rack did u have to move it towards the pass side a little so the shaft would clear the upright bar?

stanggt wrote:when u dropped your rack did u have to move it towards the pass side a little so the shaft would clear the upright bar?

Sorry bout the delayed reply.... but no I had plenty of clearance concerning that upright and still do. When we cut and designed that lower k-member cross over we made sure the rack wasn't going to be shifted one way or the other.

bigblockfox468 wrote:

stanggt wrote:when u dropped your rack did u have to move it towards the pass side a little so the shaft would clear the upright bar?

Sorry bout the delayed reply.... but no I had plenty of clearance concerning that upright and still do. When we cut and designed that lower k-member cross over we made sure the rack wasn't going to be shifted one way or the other.

I have a QA1 kmember and it looks like compared to yours, my side bars come in a little bit more at the bottom than yours but i can still drop it about 2" it just wont be level with cross bar as i would like. Thats some nice HP that 528 of yours makes. Whats your best time with that so far? I cant wait to run my engine, should be a beast