cutting c4 bellhousing

would it hurt the bell housing if i cut a small part out of the bell housing on the bottom side..just enough to get a wrench on the back side of the flywheel to hold a nut...the converter i bought has stripped holes..even new it had only about 3 threads(BTE) converter..so i had to drill some holes and move them out and use a nut..but have no way to tighten them up...or option number 2 i can have a stud welded on..

The JW ultrabells are open at the bottom, but they are a lot thicker also. I dont know if it would hurt it, if anything use a holesaw...the smallest one possible.

richter69 wrote:The JW ultrabells are open at the bottom, but they are a lot thicker also. I dont know if it would hurt it, if anything use a holesaw...the smallest one possible.

i will try that..

i always work through the starter hole if i had to.

cool40 wrote:i always work through the starter hole if i had to.

tired that..cant get a wrench in there...guess i could bend it 90 degrees

johndickjr wrote:

cool40 wrote:i always work through the starter hole if i had to.

tired that..cant get a wrench in there...guess i could bend it 90 degrees

yep,done that too and cut one of the gooseneck boxed end deals in half.are they 7/16?if not then drill and tap to 7/16 and open up the holes in the plate.i've had converters with nuts welded on the backside too.

cool40 wrote:

johndickjr wrote:

cool40 wrote:i always work through the starter hole if i had to.

tired that..cant get a wrench in there...guess i could bend it 90 degrees

yep,done that too and cut one of the gooseneck boxed end deals in half.are they 7/16?if not then drill and tap to 7/16 and open up the holes in the plate.i've had converters with nuts welded on the backside too.

just talked to a buddy..said he can weld a stud or weld a nut on the back side..either one will work..i guess..lol

johndickjr wrote:

cool40 wrote:

johndickjr wrote:

cool40 wrote:i always work through the starter hole if i had to.

tired that..cant get a wrench in there...guess i could bend it 90 degrees

yep,done that too and cut one of the gooseneck boxed end deals in half.are they 7/16?if not then drill and tap to 7/16 and open up the holes in the plate.i've had converters with nuts welded on the backside too.

just talked to a buddy..said he can weld a stud or weld a nut on the back side..either one will work..i guess..lol

if its out then go for it.i'd tac a nut on it,the stud may not like welding,JMO.bolt the nuts down so they'll be in place.

most converters have the bolts welded or tacked on the backside, or use studs. This and not cutting the bell would be best IMO.

I've never seen a FORD converter that didn't have studs for the mounting points on the converter. I'd say you have something wrong just to start..

Ace

drill a hole in the bottom with a hole saw won't hurt a thing
Frank

powerstrokeace wrote:I've never seen a FORD converter that didn't have studs for the mounting points on the converter. I'd say you have something wrong just to start..

Ace

all converters i have ever seen that had any stall to it had no stud but a nut..i end up having a nut welded on it..

I lock nut them all an the back side and after tire shake they still will come loose!
Frank

Frank Merkl wrote:drill a hole in the bottom with a hole saw won't hurt a thing
Frank

Only if you have too ! X2 with what Frank said