Instructions for cutting off the glide bellhousing and installing a JW bell...

Anybody got these?

Bought a used bell, but need the instructions.

just cut everything off from the face of the pump forward.

Alright. for some reason I was thinking if I cut it wrong I'd cut into the inside of the case

I'll get it chopped this weekend.

John do not cut any of the pan rail at all when you get to it taper it and make sure you clear the port bosses on the front lower case on the pass side....


Randy

OK. Once I'm done there will be a small gap between the case and bell, correct? Should I gut the case and do it? Or can it be done while the pump is still in there?

yep about 1/16 or so John also when you get ready to install it buy you a couple 1/8 npt to #6 an fittings and put those in the pump to cooler ports makes it easier to work with the lines.....


Randy

Thanks. Do I need to pull the pump and do it?

it would be easier if you did, that way you don't mess up the splines on the stator support or seals....


Randy

John,

Not sure who your getting to do it. If you need Mike at the machie shop I use has done quite a few of them.

Bobby

Bobby,

What does he do? Stick them in the mill and machine it off. Are you talking about Mike over at Meyers?

jbozzelle wrote:Bobby,

What does he do? Stick them in the mill and machine it off. Are you talking about Mike over at Meyers?

Yes Mike at Meyers. yes he cuts the bulk off and then puts it in the bridgeport and mills it down.

Not sure when he close for the holidays but think it is soon.

I got the bell cut off today. But now I need some longer bolts to bolt it on with. Where can I get them at? Does anybody know the size and length? Maybe I can get them at Lowe's or Home Depot?

You need to measure the holes and such, the std lengths they came in were either too long or too short for my taste. I got some longer grade 8 bolts, took a die and made the threads longer, then cut each one to fit the hole it was going in, maximum amount of thread contact without bottoming out.

You got too much time on your hands...

I'll pull one and head to Lowe's and see what they got.

I found the thread spec in the rebuild book. 5/16-18.

Are all bolts the same length?

Well it aint like your goping to the track tomorrow is it? lol


My holes where different depths, not much, but a little.

richter69 wrote:Well it aint like your goping to the track tomorrow is it? lol

Go ahead, rub it in...

Shooting for March/April timeframe...

Anyone used studs before? I was thinking about it should be a little stonger. TSR sells them.

What should the bell be torques to when I put it on? The book lists the pump to case torque specs as 15 ft/lbs. Will that suffice or should it be more? Or should I drill out the threads and put some inserts in there?

it will be fine John as it is just torque it to #15 and run with it..... those are only 5/16 bolts.....

Randy

Any need to run any Loctite or thread sealer?

NO!!!!! you may want to take it back apart someday amd unless you want to strip the bolt holes. I would just slip the gasket on and tighten the bolts to specified torques....



Randy

Are you talking about the gaskets under the bolts?

the gasket under the pump in place, the copper gaskets under the bolts, and torque to speck.


Randy

Just something to add. Take a careful look at the threads in the bolt holes for the pump/bell. If the trans has ever been apart, the chances are good that some of the the threads are worn/partially stripped. The aluminum in this area is soft. You would time/money ahead to go ahead and helicoil all 7 of them while the trans is apart. My last stock case had 4 of the seven helicoiled over 3-4 teardowns.

Thanks David. I just got a new drill press for Christmas so that might be a good thing for me to do...