New to the forum today

[SCJMACH1]

Hello everyone,
Don't know any of you yet, but in some searching around the internet I came across this forum and thought I might sign up and see whats happening.

I am a long time Ford guy that loves BB mustangs. I have a few 428 mustangs and a 71 SCJ mustang.
Recently I did some horse trading, traded a 14k car for a 67 Mustang pro street car. I am still on a learning curve with this new car, and in doing some research on it I came across this forum. I thought it might be a good forum to hang around.
I aquired the 67 in a trade. I got the car from a guy who basically "flipped" the car to me within a week of his purchase because he really wanted my car. He is reluctant to share the original owners info because the original owner is still pretty hot from having to sell it due to financial hardship. The guy I bought it from was his only option to sell to and the offer was a real low ball and they are not on good terms. Never the less in the end I ended up with the car. So now I own it and it's registered for the street.
So I am still learning about what I traded for....I just knew it was a great deal.
Everything on the car is still new, as it was in the process of being built when I got it.
So here is what I know about it.

Originally a 67 GT
Back halved, Caged. I had a professional chassis builder inspect it, it is a high quality chassis that is ready to be certified (8.50)
4 link rear
corvette front suspension w/rack and pinion steering
Koni coil overs
aftermarket diff housing with aftermarket HP pumpkin (don't know the gearing)
35 spline axles
29 x 18.5 MT on Weld racing wheels
Batt and fuel cell in trunk
514 Ford Racing motor M-6007-D514 according to the tag on the side of the motor (625hp) 3 1/2" exhaust
March pully's
dominator 1050
Msd 7al3
painless wiring throughout the car
performance automatics C4 supercomp trans with manual reverse valve body w/transbrake. (i think 3500 stall) Hurst shifter
Braided lines throughout the car.
huge "Be Cool" radiator with twin fans and big trans cooler with it's own fan.
Willwood brakes
Stock dash with gauges replaced by aftermarket autometers into the original cars bezels.
Car and chassis is painted.
I have been finishing up the wiring loose ends and the exhaust.
The car is pretty much ready to roll for it's first time, other than my couple of trips up an down my road at 10mph

Like I said I think it was a good trade, and now I'm getting excited to drive it. Not sure what to expect. I have a couple of pretty strong street cars but not quite like this one.
I have an 1/8 mile track just a few miles from my house so I will eventually get there to see how it behaves.

Any thoughts on this set up, things I should be concerned about, check on, or what to expect?

[bruno]

welcome to the site , with that being said definetly taking it to the track to blow the dust off of her would be you best and safest choice , just be patience and take it slow.

ps before you take her out go thru the vehicle( which you propbably have done already) and make sure everything is tight and road worthy


good luck and be safe

post back when you get some results , and post up some pics too

later
Nick

[rmcomprandy]

WELCOME to the site

[SCJMACH1]

Finished up a few loose ends yesterday on the car, and took for a test drive up and down my street.
The car seems to load up on fuel and takes a bit to get it cleaned out. Once it hit the 3500 stall it was very fast.
At the end of my street I have to do a 3pt turn around. I put it in reverse and it goes for @20 ft and then loads up with fuel and dies. It is hard to restart after that...flooded. only starts if I hold the pedal to the floor while cranking, then when it fires up, let it clean up and go again.
It has a Dominator 1050....which has been tuned yet.
I have tuned smaller 750 Holly's but never a dominator.

Where do I start

[maverick]

Floats.

[69F100]

an check the fuel pressure to the carb set it around 6.5 to 7 psi to much pressure it will blow by and cause flooding

[SCJMACH1]

Float valve had a piece of rubber stuck in it, so it wouldn't shut off. Had lots of unmetered fuel headed down the carb. I thought I had things about right before the test drive, and then it got stuck while I was driving. With every thing new on the car I didn't expect that.

I have a filter before the fuel pump in the trunk, do you guys use another one just before the carb. If so, just an inline one, and how many microns, 40micron?
It has all stainless braided lines with -8 AN fittings, so maybe there are just some junk it the lines from assembly.

Fuel pressure is 6.5

Also, I don't have an air filter for this car yet. For this size motor what would be a good option? 514 with 1050 dom.
It currently has one of those street scoops with the 3 big red butterflies that sticks up through the hood. It looks stupid, not my taste, but has a hole cut in the original hood that fits it. It does not have any kind of filter within the scoop. I could fit a small filter inside the scoop thats the same diameter as the carb but I think that would restrict the airflow.

Thank you for moving my post out of general discussion, I realized after I made that first post I was in the wrong place.

[SCJMACH1]

Here are a couple of pictures of the car.

[Barney]

Real nice. Welcome.

[whitefield]

very nice Stang welcome

[Wayne Pearce]

To start with - NICE car, good luck with it! As to that little piece of rubber you found it the needle & seat, I'm willing to bet that it's a piece of your braided fuel line. Do you know how old the lines are? The ones on my 460 powered 30 Model A coupe were about five years old, looked good, didn't leak, but were deteriorating on the inside, causing me fits with crap in the float valves! Replaced all the braided line with new, no more problems. I hope my suggestion is helpful.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

[SCJMACH1]

It has a nice Barry Grant canister filter just in front of the pump. I took the line off between the pump and the carb and blew a wad of paper towel through it. It came out clean three times. all of the the lines are newly installed but probably a couple of years old. I think that the rubber chunks were probably from the fitting assembly process of the lines. Hopefully that will clean up the issue.
Drove it around the neighborhood 4-5 miles last week. It ran cool and nice with no issues. The car was really fast, didn't hook well on the street tires, but hook well even for my 16 year old boy passenger to say he messed his shorts.
I guess I will have to try the track soon.

How do you think the Micky Thompson street tires will behave at the track since I don't have slicks for it??
Any suggestions on traction?

[Wayne Pearce]

I can't speak for the track, but my street experience has been that Hoosier 33X22.5X15 Pro Street Radials work pretty well for me. They hook pretty well for me on the street. Had 31X18.5X15 Mickey's on it before, wouldn't hook at all.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

[66prostreetfairlane]

I can't speak for the track, but my street experience has been that Hoosier 33X22.5X15 Pro Street Radials work pretty well for me. They hook pretty well for me on the street. Had 31X18.5X15 Mickey's on it before, wouldn't hook at all.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Are the Hoosier 22.5 radials something they don't show in catalog but have? the widest i've seen is 33x22x15?

[res0rli9]

Here, the last one down.
http://www.hoosiertire.com/pdfs/prostr.pdf

the main site
http://www.hoosiertire.com/strttire.htm

the 33x22.50-15LT's only come in the bias tires, and QUICK TIME & QUICK TIME PRO

[Wayne Pearce]

I don't get it, unless they've been discontinued. I just spent about 15 minutes digging out the invoice for the tires, I got them from Jeg's, and the Jeg's number for them was #052217210QT description Quick Time 33.0X22.5 15LT, so I'm not crazy after all.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

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