show me some throttle tech

I need some help! I'm done with this piece of crap throttle setup I'm dealing with and want to see what everyone else is running. I was running the stock ranger throttle pedal with a Lokar cable last year and over the winter found why my throttle pedal was so sketchy when I grabbed it and the rivets broke loose leaving the pedal in my hand. I thought I was being cost effective and went to Speedway for one of their aluminum pedal kits that came with the cable. Come to find out that I can't get enough throw on the pedal to open the carb all the way plus the "P" clamps don't hold the cable all that well and it slides under my foot. Enough of that! So back to the drawing board. I have ordered a firewall mounted dirt track style pedal that is basically a bent bar with a center pivot point and has a toe kick. It's meant for mechanical linkage but I'm not sure i can make it work with a BBF stuffed into a ranger.

What I need is some pics of how you full drag car guys made up a throttle setup so I can get some ideas to fix mine.

I stole a stick of stainless tubing off of a natural gas company service truck while it was in the shop.....................works good for a throttle

I will try and remember to go out and get a few pics of mine I made the hole thing from the gas padel to carb no cable made with rods it was not hard to build

Neat idea, how about the rest going into the firewall and down to the pedal please.

69F100 wrote:I will try and remember to go out and get a few pics of mine I made the hole thing from the gas padel to carb no cable made with rods it was not hard to build

I think I'll be needing to put some type of pivot in to raise from the pedal height to over the intake. A local guy said to bend a piece of rod into a z shape to go up and over the intake, but that seems like it might be weak.

i made mine out of 3/4"flat bar and used a cable from a 85gt. when i put the hat on it i flipped it and put the long cable through the bottom.a 87-up mustang has a long cable that may work for you.i used a ford escape pedal in a streetrod and the lightning pedal in my 40 truck.i like junk parts cars

Karl,
I can't get a picture right now, but I installed a tubular stock car type pedal in my '58 and it works real nicely.
Here is a link to a page that shows them.
http://www.performancebodies.com/Product-Detail.aspx?parentCatId=11&subcatid=47&categoryName=Fuel%20Components&pid=1440

I use a PRP526 firewall mount, but they offer two other type of mountings. All of them cost about $20 and they are light, strong and include a toe "pull back". I have a local stock car shop that keeps them on hand.
I just made a mount to bolt it to my firewall bored a hole for the rod, and made up a rod using 1/4 " round stock, threaded on each end with a nice Heim joint. Depending on which engine/manifold is in the car, I have rods for each one. You will spend a total of $35 or less for the pedal and all hardware to make your rod.
If required, you can make a rubber seal for the hole where the rod goes through the firewall to keep the tech inspectors happy.
Hope this helps...
Keith

Wheelie58 wrote:Karl,
I can't get a picture right now, but I installed a tubular stock car type pedal in my '58 and it works real nicely.
Here is a link to a page that shows them.
http://www.performancebodies.com/Product-Detail.aspx?parentCatId=11&subcatid=47&categoryName=Fuel%20Components&pid=1440

I use a PRP526 firewall mount, but they offer two other type of mountings. All of them cost about $20 and they are light, strong and include a toe "pull back". I have a local stock car shop that keeps them on hand.
I just made a mount to bolt it to my firewall bored a hole for the rod, and made up a rod using 1/4 " round stock, threaded on each end with a nice Heim joint. Depending on which engine/manifold is in the car, I have rods for each one. You will spend a total of $35 or less for the pedal and all hardware to make your rod.
If required, you can make a rubber seal for the hole where the rod goes through the firewall to keep the tech inspectors happy.
Hope this helps...
Keith

Keith,

That is the same pedal I just ordered. Now, it's time to mount and make the linkage. My problem is the 466 sit's a little high compared to where the top of that throttle pedal will be, so I need to find a way to raise it up about 4" to go up and over the intake.

kjett wrote:

69F100 wrote:I will try and remember to go out and get a few pics of mine I made the hole thing from the gas padel to carb no cable made with rods it was not hard to build

I think I'll be needing to put some type of pivot in to raise from the pedal height to over the intake. A local guy said to bend a piece of rod into a z shape to go up and over the intake, but that seems like it might be weak.

I get some pics I only had to bend the rod going down that I made the padel out of the leakage to the carb is strieght shot and I am running a victor intake but I did lower my engine plus moved it back 12''

if your intake has a place for the cable bracket to bolt just make a bell crank like the early 70's ford trucks had. one rod to the pedal,one to the carb.get it? i cant find a pic....

The victor still has the bosses, and i think I know what you are saying. Think I'm going to have to wait utnil the pedal shows up this week, mount it and then figure the rest out. Just been pissy all evening from having to deal with the crap from this past race f*** up.

kjett wrote:The victor still has the bosses, and i think I know what you are saying. Think I'm going to have to wait utnil the pedal shows up this week, mount it and then figure the rest out. Just been pissy all evening from having to deal with the crap from this past race f*** up.

i've been the same way try'n to get all i can outa my sack before the 22nd.

Karl,
With a 4" difference, it is OK if the rod runs "uphill" as long as it clears the manifold. If you need to make an offset rod for clearance, I would make it from heavier rod, maybe 5/16" solid or 3/8 to 1/2 moly tubing with weld adapters in the ends. That way, it will not flex.
It looks like you have a mud racer, so i bet it has to be tough to put up with the abuse and banging around.
Keith

kjett wrote:

Wheelie58 wrote:Karl,
I can't get a picture right now, but I installed a tubular stock car type pedal in my '58 and it works real nicely.
Here is a link to a page that shows them.
http://www.performancebodies.com/Product-Detail.aspx?parentCatId=11&subcatid=47&categoryName=Fuel%20Components&pid=1440

I use a PRP526 firewall mount, but they offer two other type of mountings. All of them cost about $20 and they are light, strong and include a toe "pull back". I have a local stock car shop that keeps them on hand.
I just made a mount to bolt it to my firewall bored a hole for the rod, and made up a rod using 1/4 " round stock, threaded on each end with a nice Heim joint. Depending on which engine/manifold is in the car, I have rods for each one. You will spend a total of $35 or less for the pedal and all hardware to make your rod.
If required, you can make a rubber seal for the hole where the rod goes through the firewall to keep the tech inspectors happy.
Hope this helps...
Keith

Keith,

That is the same pedal I just ordered. Now, it's time to mount and make the linkage. My problem is the 466 sit's a little high compared to where the top of that throttle pedal will be, so I need to find a way to raise it up about 4" to go up and over the intake.

I do run a mud bog truck, and it does get some air time. Was just sitting here thinking about a piece of 5/16" aluminum rod. I can bend it fairly easily with a bender to the shape I need, and as long as I use a tight fitting firewall gromet with an x patter for the rod to pass through, then it shouldn't move around too much to bind up. Bend an offset into it to clear the intake and do a kick at the top for the carb.

Just so you know what it's going in:

Don't forget a toe hook on the pedal.........

richter69 wrote:Don't forget a toe hook on the pedal.........

the dirt track pedal has the toe kick built in. It's similar to the one tha twas posted in the link above and bolts to the firewall.

Here's the set up I had on my Tbird when I ran a carb[img][/img]

56Tbird wrote:Here's the set up I had on my Tbird when I ran a carb[img][/img]

That's what i wanted to see. I'll have a little more offset than that, possibly need 2 offsets to get down behind the factory firewall. Updated delivery of the new pedal is 6/7, so shortly afterwards will be some mounting and measuring!

here is a few pics

Thanks! I like the adjustability with the tab inside so you can put your pedal where you want it. figure if I do that on the inside with the step up in the engine compartment, I should be close.

I think I might have $10 in the whole setup it is made out of 1/4'' cold roll I treaded the end and put a locknut on it for adjustments I used a 1/2 bolt for the pivet point with a peace of crome moly tube from the 4link I put under the rear.It works great and never had a problem.

Here's my setup. Mine has the stock pedal that has been modified and beefed up the keep it from bending.

Looks nice and clean Doug. Where is the pivot setup that's bolted to the intake from?